options for woodstove in dual fireplace

[twd000]

I recently posted a thread about my new house and the Dutchwest catalytic stove in the basement

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-to-me-dutchwest-catalytic-stove.145820/

I am in the process of repairing that unit, but I am also aware of the difficulties of getting heat to rise from the basement. I also have two open fireplaces on the main floor. I will post some photos and a floor plan.

I would like to understand my options. It looks like the previous owner used them periodically, and there is a lot of creosote that I will have removed before going any further.

The fireplaces are back-to-back, sharing a chimney. I assume the flues are separated but I can;t see up that far. There is a large 36" x 6" damper plate on each, then some tapered brick work, then clay tiles the rest of the way up.

Questions: for the fireplace(s) not currently in use, what is the best way to seal the damper plate opening, to keep the heated house air from going up the chimney?

Would it make sense to move the Dutchwest into either of these fireplaces, instead of lining the chimney to the basement?

Is there a different model of woodstove that would be more appropriate for these hearths?

 

[bholler]

ould it make sense to move the Dutchwest into either of these fireplaces, instead of lining the chimney to the basement?

You will need a liner in the fireplaces as well. There are many stoves or inserts that would fit in or infront of the fireplaces.

 

[twd000]

photos of fireplace

 

[begreen]

The top of the 2462 rear-vent flue collar is at 33". That is above the lintel of either fireplace. There are other stoves and/or inserts that would work.

The small doorways between rooms will not help heat circulation. A stove or insert in fireplace B will probably work the best unless fans or a ducted fan is used to move the heat around the first floor. Otherwise a stove or insert in the living room fireplace A could work with an intake floor grille in the kitchen floor and ducted with an inline fan that is blowing into the living room. The displaced cooler air from the kitchen would be replaced by warmer air from the living room pulled through the den.

 

[twd000]

yeah, it looks like I need another 3 or 4 inches of clearance. Is there a short-leg kit for the 2462 that could bring it down? I see a set of 2-inch legs here (35B) http://www.cozycabinstoveandfireplaceparts.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=2462
which are 4 inches shorter than the current legs

If not, I wonder if it is worth the money to rehab that unit, if it can't be used on the main floor?

How much would I expect to pay for a stainless liner through 3 stories of chimney?

As far as airflow, I forgot to draw the double doors between the living room and entry way, but yes, it is a traditional Colonial layout, which means no open floor plan. I do have forced-air heating ducts in the floors throughout the house. I wonder if I could selectively close some to draw cold air from the kitchen, and return it to the living room?

What are some good candidate woodstoves for fireplace A and B? What are the trade-offs for a insert vs. a stove?

 

[Grisu]

What are the trade-offs for a insert vs. a stove?

Very few in your case. With a fully interior fireplace, it won't make much of a difference whether you have a stove or an insert. The heat that is captured in your fireplace cavity will warm up the walls which will release it slowly over time into your home. Kind of like a masonry heater. The biggest difference will be that after lighting a fire it will take more time for you to feel the heat. A blower will be helpful when you want heat fast. What you will need is a damper-sealing block-off plate preferably with some Roxul insulation on top: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/

For the arched fireplace you will need to extend the hearth in front regardless whether you get an insert or stove. There are only few stoves that would have a rear flue outlet that fits under that lintel. The Woodstock Progress Hybrid and Ideal Steel stoves, both with the short leg kit, would work. In medium-size, I think the Hearthstone Castleton and maybe the Jotul F500 with the short leg kit. Almost the same would be true for the other fireplace. There the Quadrafire Explorer 2 and maybe the Hearthstone Manchester could be additional options. Again, the shallow hearth requires in almost any case an extension. With its current 16" it is just barely within code but even a flush insert would stick out a bit and make it non-code compliant.

As for the liner, there are plenty of online retailers that post their prices. Measure how much you need and then google 6" flex liner. Don't forget the insulation.

 

[twd000]

Very few in your case. With a fully interior fireplace, it won't make much of a difference whether you have a stove or an insert. The heat that is captured in your fireplace cavity will warm up the walls which will release it slowly over time into your home. Kind of like a masonry heater. The biggest difference will be that after lighting a fire it will take more time for you to feel the heat. A blower will be helpful when you want heat fast. What you will need is a damper-sealing block-off plate preferably with some Roxul insulation on top: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/

For the arched fireplace you will need to extend the hearth in front regardless whether you get an insert or stove. There are only few stoves that would have a rear flue outlet that fits under that lintel. The Woodstock Progress Hybrid and Ideal Steel stoves, both with the short leg kit, would work. In medium-size, I think the Hearthstone Castleton and maybe the Jotul F500 with the short leg kit. Almost the same would be true for the other fireplace. There the Quadrafire Explorer 2 and maybe the Hearthstone Manchester could be additional options. Again, the shallow hearth requires in almost any case an extension. With its current 16" it is just barely within code but even a flush insert would stick out a bit and make it non-code compliant.

As for the liner, there are plenty of online retailers that post their prices. Measure how much you need and then google 6" flex liner. Don't forget the insulation.

For the fireplace that I choose not to use, should I build a block-off-plate with no cutout for a flue pipe? Or just buy one of these air-sealing pillows to block the heat loss? http://www.batticdoor.com/DraftStopper.htm

 

[twd000]

OK, the chimney sweep confirmed that I have three separate flues. Fireplace B has a somewhat convoluted chimney path, so snaking a liner around that bend would make a woodstove installation more costly. So I'm just looking at Fireplace A for a potential woodstove or insert. He said I could add a hearth pad to bring the depth up to code, rather than pulling out wood flooring, etc. For the un-used flues, he recommended a "top damper" - sounds like a flap and ring installed near the top of the flue, with a pull-chain dropped down into the fireplace to open and close it. Is this a better option that the urethane chimney balloon, for minimizing energy loss through the un-used chimney?

 

[begreen]

The top damper would still permit occasional use of the fireplace. If it will never be used you could DIY with a damper sealing block-off plate that has no flue liner hole. If you choose to do this I strongly suggest having a permanent sign made up for the back of the fireplace that warns that the damper is sealed shut and no fires can be burned in the fireplace.

 

[twd000]

would a rear-flue exit stove fit in a 30" tall fireplace?

http://nh.craigslist.org/hsh/5279573166.html

 

[Grisu]

would a rear-flue exit stove fit in a 30" tall fireplace?

http://nh.craigslist.org/hsh/5279573166.html

Depends on the height of the flue exit in the rear. I think this one has its ~27" so that would fit. Take a tape measure with you and see how high up it is. The outer diameter of the pipe will also add a bit so calculate with 1/2" more to be safe.