Osburn Matrix insert

[freddy]

Hello....... About to pull the trigger on an Osburn Matrix insert and checking with the experts on whether it is a good deal or not. I was quoted 3k for stove, liner an install of two story 1800 sq. ft home. This seems like a good price versus the other flush mounted designs out there. I like the fact that it has a bigger box and can load N/S with 15 inch logs or E/W for 20. I really like the Clydesdale and Avalon perfect fit units but is 2k extra really worth it?? Can any Matrix owners shed some light on burn times and how happy they are with their stoves? I will be mainly burning doug fir and have a cord or so of apple for night time burns. Tired of burning in an open fireplace. Wasting tons of wood!

 

[Heatsource]

considering that retail on the unit w/o surrounds is $2499, i'd say that is a screaming deal!!
i've only installed one unit so far, so very little to report as far as function

 

[Sons924]

On Long Island, NY they go for 3400 installed.

http://longisland.craigslist.org/hsd/4049830956.html

 

[freddy]

Thank you. Sounds like I should do it. Read some others info on here and all seems positive. Scheduled install next week!

 

[freddy]

Matrix install was a nightmare! Took the installers 7 hours. I was a very tight fit even though they measured prior to the install a said it would fit. Anyway...my biggest concern is that they did not fasten the liner to the stove with the brackets and screws provided. He told me that the weight of the liner would be enough to hold it in place securely. Even after running a brush through it for cleaning? Had fire lastnight and it seemed fine but that seems odd to me. It was too tight of a fit to get in there to secure it apparently. Anyone else set their liners like this?

 

[begreen]

Wow, 7 hrs is a long install. What issues did they run into. You are correct, the liner should be secured to the stove. If they couldn't access the top screws then it should be attached using the liner fastening system (AC02006).

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Your suppose to have all three screws in. Is it that you cant physically get them in because of not enough space to work? I would atleast put heat tape where the connections are....

 

[freddy]

They fully installed the stove and realized that it would not fit flush so had to pull it out and take out more brick. Wasn't happy with the dust all over the house! They literally took 2 hours trying to figure out how to put the surround together. I was beginning to wonder?? It is a really tight fit and I don't know how you could possibly attach all three screws.

Begreen, I saw that attachment piece in the manual too. I wonder if I should get it and install it myself. I would be concerned about draft issues but it is a 25 ft. liner.

Just my luck! You get what you pay for I guess??

 

[begreen]

Bummer, sounds like some poor measuring by whoever did the estimate. Personally I'd want the liner attached even if it had to be screwed with stainless sheet metal screws from the inside (with a right angle drill).

 

[freddy]

Great idea! I just happen to have a right angle drill too.

Thx!!

 

[begreen]

Put a washer on each screw.

 

[Heatsource]

Wasn't happy with the dust all over the house!

they should put a draft fan on the top of the chimney while cutting or hammering

 

[freddy]

they should put a draft fan on the top of the chimney while cutting or hammering

Agreed! Dust was insane! Had to stop them and put a tarp up. I told them that I couldn't believe that they would do that with out putting anything up and they said "we usually don't see this as it normally drafts up the flue" For being in business 20 years that suprises me!

I also noticed the flue cap is all crooked on the chimney so I climbed up there and noticed that it isn't secured to the chimney. I called them and he said that if they were to screw it to the flue that it would crack it. I asked if they could seal or caulk it at least and he said that there was no reason to as it is a contained system. I will caulk it when I get the chance. If I drill some holes in the brick liner can I then screw the metal cap and secure it to that? I don't want that flapping in the wind!

Thanks for the helpful replies!!

 

[Heatsource]

it does take some effort to pre-drill some mollies into the terracotta i suppose....
and the top plate should always be sealed tight- "contained system"-lol

 

[begreen]

In the least the top cap should be adhered to the cleaned top edge of the terracotta pipe with a healthy bead of good silicone. Is there a drip edge or is it just a flat plate?

 

[bag of hammers]

Wow, 7 hrs is a long install. What issues did they run into. You are correct, the liner should be secured to the stove. If they couldn't access the top screws then it should be attached using the liner fastening system (AC02006).

that's an excellent idea. I dunno much about liners or inserts, but in general I would be paranoid if I had a chimney part that was supposed to be attached, but it wasn't, and it's out of sight.

 

[freddy]

In the least the top cap should be adhered to the cleaned top edge of the terracotta pipe with a healthy bead of good silicone. Is there a drip edge or is it just a flat plate?

Yes, it is folded over about an inch so no water should get inside. I just don't like how easy it moves around. Doesn't seem right?? Would it be safe to use high temp sealant for up there?

 

[weatherguy]

If you do what Begreen said it should be pretty secure.

 

[Dave A.]

Had a hard time installing mine. Couldn't get the high temp silicone caulk to seal it since the liner was moving it out of position. He's right about not being able to screw it to the terra cotta, I was told the terra cotta would likely break or crack if I tried drilling into it . I ended up getting an expensive "terra cotta top plate" (SS) that is made with a 2" lip and 8 thumb screws to fasten to the clay top. I think it was about $70 or $80 and they don't offer them in the liner kits.

 

[Nick Mystic]

I'm assuming you have a SS flexible liner with your installation. When I did my stove installation last February I attached the bottom of the liner to my stove and then pulled the slack out of the liner from the top of the chimney before I fastened down my locking strap up top. This bit of tension served to pull the cap plate down tight to the top of my terracotta tile flue. With a generous bead of silicone caulk between the plate and the clay tile it formed a very tight seal. Without a mechanical connection of the flex liner to the top of your insert you wouldn't be able to put any tension on the liner from the top, which explains why the top plate is able to move around and not seal tight. Another reason I wanted to put some tension on flex liner was to straighten it out inside my clay flue liner. With all the weight of the liner being supported at the bottom the flexible liner was touching the sides of my clay flue in several places. I figured wherever it touched there would be a cold spot where creosote could start to build up. By pulling on the liner a small amount from the top before locking it down I was able to straighten the flex liner out and avoid that contact with the tile flue.

 

[begreen]

I used a thick bead of GE Silicone II on our chimney top plate. It held in spite of an earthquake twisting the top 45 degrees! When I removed it the following year I had to use a knife to cut it off.

 

[freddy]

Thanks for all the help with this!! Man...with all the advice on here, I could have done it myself...

Started her up last night and after a few hours the fan is now making an awfully loud noise! WTH!

I hope this isn't install related!