Get a Cat stove if you want a slow burn. Non-cat stoves are designed to burn hot and then slowly drop in temp over the course of the burn cycle.Now if it's hard to control the draft, what can I do to slow down the rate of burn?
Get a Cat stove if you want a slow burn. Non-cat stoves are designed to burn hot and then slowly drop in temp over the course of the burn cycle.Now if it's hard to control the draft, what can I do to slow down the rate of burn?
cygnus said:
Hi Bagelboy.
I think 600 degrees on the top of an insert is a problem. That is not actually the stove top. That's the temp of the air jacket running around the stove. The stove is MUCH hotter.
Since there really is no good area to monitor the stove top temp, I have a thermo stuck in the air outlet. This is just gives me a relative temp to work with. I can't contribute to those, "I gone her cruis'in at 600 stove top" conversations because I have no idea what the actual stove top temp is but, I know that I'm crus'in when the output air is 175-225. At 150, the stove is cold and at 350+ I have a problem. I did buy a probe to install in the liner but I don't think I'll ever put it in. This seems to working OK.
I experienced many overfires in my Osburn with the 30' insulated liner. It defies logic but, the air control only regulates the amount air to the secondaries. The primary is an open, uncontrolled hole. In my opinion this is a design flaw since it performs so terribly with a strong draft. My primary was sucking WAY TOO MUCH air due to a very strong draft and I was burning through huge quantities of wood. Once I found and obstructed the primary air intake I discovered what using a stove was supposed to be like all along. I can easily get 6 hours burns with half the wood. There is a promised land. Did you ever find the primary intake from this thread? https://www.hearth.com/talk/bookmarks/?type=post&id=1557168
Cygnus, the hole you describe is also on the 2400 insert. This is the hole inwhich I am also talking about. I put a bolt in this hole, tightened it down, and have noticed a big difference in the control of air coming in when the air control is pushed in. It does not shut the fire down completely, but it does seem to stop the runaway fires I was experiencing. The only thing is, if the bolt is now blocking this hole, how else is air entering the unit?
Again, you were not experiencing runaway fires.but it does seem to stop the runaway fires I was experiencing.
Before you start modifying the stove, spend more time with it. Every winter there are many threads created about "my stove is running away from me", when in actuality, the stove is operating correctly and it is user error or user expectations.I could be wrong, having a Jotul 8 stove for over 20 years, but to me a runaway fire is one inwhich my firebox goes from 300 degrees to 650 with the air shut down, flames ingulfing the entire firebox. Granted, the Jotul is a cat firebox, and not having bought a new firebox in 22 years, perhaps things have changed somewhat, but I still use the Jotul during the season and control the rate of burn. Like I said, I may be a little behind on the current EPA stoves, but it's hard to believe that a box cannot be controlled and that once filled, it's out of my hands. Let me say Brownbar, I am not being sarcastic or disrespectful in my tone, in fact, I am here to educate myself and get feedback from you and others and appreciate the input!
Okay, I'm convinced that Bagelboy has a control problem whether you call it runaway or not. If I couldn't stop a climb in a reasonable amount of time, it would be a problem for me. As I recall, his flue is around 30 feet and he probably needs something to help control draft. If you can't add a damper, then controlling air intake is the only other option left.It can be unnerving watching a new stove climb, and climb, engulfed with flames, and not be able to respond.
I do not see where Bagelboy has a problem. If he was topping out at 700-800 degrees everytime, sure, you might have something. But 600 is at the lower end of a good burn temp.Okay, I'm convinced that Bagelboy has a control problem whether you call it runaway or not. If I couldn't stop a climb in a reasonable amount of time, it would be a problem for me. As I recall, his flue is around 30 feet and he probably needs something to help control draft. If you can't add a damper, then controlling air intake is the only other option left.
That's not how non-cat stoves work.True, the temps reached so far are not too alarming, but I know I'd like a little more control.
450 seems low. You should be between 550-650 for the most part. That isn't screaming. That is normal.View attachment 118172 Here is another. Stove is at 450 degrees. I have blocked off the air hole next to the air control, and the air control is shut down. If I didn't block off the hole next to the air control, this baby would be crying. Make that screaming,
View attachment 118170 This is my insert, with the air control closed all the way, and the bolt I installed into the air hole opening. It is under control, and I don't have a runaway firebox. Prior to this, this box would be lit up!
I only know it's the way mine works. I'm not after an argument or anything, and I'm the first to admit my limited experience, but I'm used to being able to fairly quickly stop any temperature rise that I'm experiencing at any temperature I want. I've always been able to do that and I've done it over a wide range of situations. I can control the temp of my stove at any temperature that I choose regardless of the load. If I want to stop my temps at 300, I can. But he can't. I just know that I'd be very uncomfortable if I couldn't.That's not how non-cat stoves work
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