I can't turn down the airflow on my 2008 Alderlea T5 enough. Door gasket seems good. Just put in new door glass and gasket since glass had cracked and glass gasket was leaking air. Thought that would solve my air flow problem. It made it better but still can't slow down the flow as much as when new. I've inspected things and don't see anything warped from overheating and the damper seems to be working right but I can't restrict the incoming air as much as I'd like to control the fire. When new I could shut damper far enough to slow the fire down to a simmer but now even shutting the damper down all the way I get more of a burn than I'd like. Makes me careful not to add much fuel at a time as afraid it might burn to fast and hot. Any ideas appreciated on how to deal with this.
Overburn problem
- Thread starter AltaVistaStove
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Welcome. Do the dollar bill test on the door at multiple points and make sure the door glass gasket is sealing all the way around. Also, are the insulation blocks on either side of the baffle in good condition and touching up against the baffle? Has the baffle secondary tube gasket been replaced after cleaning?
Another thing that can change is the species of wood, its dryness and thickness. Some types of wood burn hotter and faster than otheres. Thicker splits will burn slower.
Is the stove being loaed N/S and tightly packed?
Another thing that can change is the species of wood, its dryness and thickness. Some types of wood burn hotter and faster than otheres. Thicker splits will burn slower.
Is the stove being loaed N/S and tightly packed?
Thanks for the reply! I just watched some UTube videos. Will be easy to do the dollar bill test. Will also try to take out the baffle to inspect. What would tell you that a new baffle is needed? Anyway this all gives me hope I can fix this stove and continue to use it!
It takes a lot of abuse, typically overfiring a lot, to wear out a PE baffle. A baffle will need to be replaced when
it no longer can direct secondary air properly. This usually shows up as a bad sag and rupture on the bottom side or front edge. Our T6 baffle is the same age as your stove and it is still in very good condition.
it no longer can direct secondary air properly. This usually shows up as a bad sag and rupture on the bottom side or front edge. Our T6 baffle is the same age as your stove and it is still in very good condition.
Pipe goes up about 3 feet above stove then 90 degrees and out through wall, then It's about 20 feet tall, from basement extending through main floor, attic and extending up out of roof.
Was the fire controllable before the glass cracked and was replaced? Do you have any sooty areas around the glass?
Where are you located?
Where are you located?
It was more controllable so I think part of problem was the glass and old glass gasket was leaking air into the burn chamber. New glass and gasket helped some but did not solve the problem. I'm going to replace the door gasket also though I don't think that is the problem. Also plan to take the baffle out and look things over. Not any noticeable sooty areas around the glass. Glass itself stays pretty clean.
Want to get this figured out. When I first got it it seemed to provide more heat and was more controllable flame and just not sure what happened. Baffle doesn't look too bad as far as I can see but will take it out and look more closely at it. I'm located in Rapid City, SD in the foothills of the Black Hills. I have started really looking at YouTube videos about this stove. Even after using it for 17 years I'm still learning things about it.
It’s possible your wood is dryer now than it used to be. I start turning my stove down as soon as the fire starts hitting the baffle regularly. Turn it down in small increments. The fire will die back and then rebuild as it adjusts.
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