I have a p series and the handle needs removed for door trim install , the handle style is the turn style and the allan screw has been removed from the inside pawl and I thought it would just slip off but that is not the case . I did read that it is threaded and read 17 turns is the adjustment . I did mount it in a vice and its not wanting to budge but I have not pushed too hard before I ask for some ones" been there" and you need heat or just turn it out right hand thread usual . thanks I know its a simple question just don't need to break stuff .
p series door handle romoval for trim install
- Thread starter kelly
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Re-read your instructions on your trim kit. #1. Using the hex key wrench, remove the first set screw in the latch paw and loosen the second one. Check out what it says about the spring washer!
Also list your stove model in your signature on the avatar so people know which you have and can respond better.
What do you have? A P43 or 61. Same door trim for the PC45 also BTW. Have fun! It's easy to do.
Also list your stove model in your signature on the avatar so people know which you have and can respond better.
What do you have? A P43 or 61. Same door trim for the PC45 also BTW. Have fun! It's easy to do.
thanks for the reply - new kit and its a p61 but I believe p38 45 61 all same as for door
Thanks no instructions in this kit and once second allen loosened does it turn off or slip off thanks
If you lay the door on a work table, supported by a couple of 2x4s,
you can drill the holes for the trim install WITHOUT
removing the door handle mechanism.
I've done it that way many times.
you can drill the holes for the trim install WITHOUT
removing the door handle mechanism.
I've done it that way many times.
okay is see that it slips off and the first allan is a lock please inform on the spring clip please and possible different key locations with 3 available thanks again
The paw slips right off. Maybe a little wiggle. Hold onto your handle because if you don't and it hit the tiled floor it might chip it. It's wooden and screws on. Ask me how I know......
Since you do not have instructions and I just went thru this I will give you the dirt on the process. You can look them up and print them out if you want. The trim kit is part # 1-00-06802 Trim Kit Instructions.
You remove the wave and spacer washer. You will no longer need the spacer washer due to thickness of door trim. If you use it the door will not want to latch because the offset is now too thin.
There are 4 dimples inside the door and that is the location for the holes to be drilled. These are OUTSIDE of the door rope gasket area! The bit Harman recommends is 1/4" I believe. The 1/4" is very likely the hole size for things to line up. Keep the door gasket AWAY from the drill bit or you might damage it if some threads / fibers get tangled up. Put some tape over it to hold it back if needed.
The door trim has 4 threaded studs you line up and insert thru the 4 corner holes. Secure with them with 3/8" nuts. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE BECAUSE THE STUDS ARE SOMEWHAT FRAGILE. Just snug up. It will not go anywhere.
Put the door latch back on the way you took it apart and hang it. Door is finished!
Are you only doing the fire box door trim or do you have the ash lip and ash door trims? They are very easy and I can tell you about them as well. Get some pics posted!
Since you do not have instructions and I just went thru this I will give you the dirt on the process. You can look them up and print them out if you want. The trim kit is part # 1-00-06802 Trim Kit Instructions.
You remove the wave and spacer washer. You will no longer need the spacer washer due to thickness of door trim. If you use it the door will not want to latch because the offset is now too thin.
There are 4 dimples inside the door and that is the location for the holes to be drilled. These are OUTSIDE of the door rope gasket area! The bit Harman recommends is 1/4" I believe. The 1/4" is very likely the hole size for things to line up. Keep the door gasket AWAY from the drill bit or you might damage it if some threads / fibers get tangled up. Put some tape over it to hold it back if needed.
The door trim has 4 threaded studs you line up and insert thru the 4 corner holes. Secure with them with 3/8" nuts. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE BECAUSE THE STUDS ARE SOMEWHAT FRAGILE. Just snug up. It will not go anywhere.
Put the door latch back on the way you took it apart and hang it. Door is finished!
Are you only doing the fire box door trim or do you have the ash lip and ash door trims? They are very easy and I can tell you about them as well. Get some pics posted!
How do you get the big handle thru the small trim hole to install the door trim then? OP, Do you have a small round hole on your trim?
Those are the only 2 set screws involved. The ash lip just slips on and comes off the same way. The crescent moon looking spring clip T's into the grove and the leg of it slides in. It works due to compression. A small PITA but easy.
Also when you are finished clean it all up. Think I saw where finger prints can leave marks or tarnish the trim finish when it gets hot unless it's cleaned first.
Also when you are finished clean it all up. Think I saw where finger prints can leave marks or tarnish the trim finish when it gets hot unless it's cleaned first.
Last edited:
please inform me on the spring clip ! no instructions in box other than oronge tag stating clean fingerprints before burn
The spring clip has a T at one end. Turn it sideways and insert that into the recessed channeled grove on the trim frame. Rotate it 90 degrees so it is now parallel with the frame running with it. Just chose the left or right side whichever, doesn't matter. Or top or bottom???? The shorter sides are more rigid and will give a tighter fit IMO. I believe that is where Harman suggests IF I remember correctly with the T up. Once the T is set behind the small groove flanges both sides set the opposite end into the same groove. There is like a little prong or "leg" on the opposite end.
I would go mid way and hold it into place then put that side in first with pressure holding it there. It will likely fall out a few time on you. It is a compression / friction fit. Once that is in place push trim frame to that side compressing spring until the opposite side fits into ash door recess where it lives. Can be tight getting into place and the aluminum trim frame is not super tough so work it as needed.
T on the spring clip can go up or down so whichever you can get to work easier to place it then that is your decision to make.
does the wave washer get used ? or what special instructions for it thanks again and I tried to find instructions on web and nothing available under part #
Kelly,
Yes, but if there is a spacer washer it gets discarded. I'd keep it but it is not used if door trim is on. The wave washer only is still used. Per instructions I looked at. If you check the spacer washer is likely the same thickness as the door trim. Sorry, I just saw this and have been busy or I would have responded sooner.
Yes, but if there is a spacer washer it gets discarded. I'd keep it but it is not used if door trim is on. The wave washer only is still used. Per instructions I looked at. If you check the spacer washer is likely the same thickness as the door trim. Sorry, I just saw this and have been busy or I would have responded sooner.
- Status
Similar threads
