P68 motor/auger not working in test

[heat seeker]

correct... is that the issue?

Edit: to be sure I am clear. I am connecting 1 probe to each lead coming from the board going to the motor

That's correct, and I assume that you've set your meter to AC Volts.

 

[SininStyle]

That's correct, and I assume that you've set your meter to AC Volts.

correct

 

[SininStyle]

$210 for a new board, take a week to get to me. heres hoping the cold waits for winter.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

In your second post you mentioned many things you tried, but I didn’t see the vacuum switch as one of them. Now granted, the vacuum switch will not make it run with everything in the off position, but that could very well have been your problem before poking around at other things (yep, sometimes a probe or a tug in the wrong place can lead to more problems), about $26.

 

[SininStyle]

In your second post you mentioned many things you tried, but I didn’t see the vacuum switch as one of them. Now granted, the vacuum switch will not make it run with everything in the off position, but that could very well have been your problem before poking around at other things (yep, sometimes a probe or a tug in the wrong place can lead to more problems), about $26.

Vacuum switch?
Not sure what that is.
The random turn on in the off position was a loose wire to ESP. Cat walked under apparently and caused a disconnect. This has been corrected. Would low voltage to the auger be explained by this switch? I will have to google this and see if I can mess with it.

 

[SininStyle]

In your second post you mentioned many things you tried, but I didn’t see the vacuum switch as one of them. Now granted, the vacuum switch will not make it run with everything in the off position, but that could very well have been your problem before poking around at other things (yep, sometimes a probe or a tug in the wrong place can lead to more problems), about $26.

found it! I see the tiny tube and the unit. Anyway to test it? bypass it?

 

[SininStyle]

Well, I tapped it a few times, wiggled the hose. it now seems to work. So there is 100% an issue associated with it. thanks for that!

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Glad you found it, much cheaper than a board. If you need to quickly see if that’s the problem, just put the two wires going to it together (essentially bypassing it) if the auger turns, you have found your problem, they do go bad from time to time. You’ll find plenty of posts like the one below of people with the same problem.

Harman Vacuum Issue

Hello All, I have a Harman P61-2 pellet stove and I am having a vacuum issue. The auger wouldn't start until I bypassed the vacuum switch. This has led me to be sure it is a vacuum issue that won't allow my stove to feed. I have cleaned the stove recently, and even did another clean when this...

www.hearth.com

 

[SidecarFlip]

Do keep in mind that any hose in a bio mass stove isn't an ordinary auto parts rubber hose, it's a Silicone rubber heat resistant hose. Ordinary rubber hoses will soon fail in the heated atmosphere a stove produces. Has to be silicone rubber as it's heat resistant.

 

[SininStyle]

Just an update. Ran it for a little while, seems to be working flawlessly. Do appreciate all the help. Can always count on this forum to know all the things I don't
Have that board now also. Debating on if I should keep it on hand or suffer a restock fee.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I'd keep it. You can always sell it on CL or FB Market place, but boards do crap out and you may need it at sometime.

 

[SininStyle]

So I woke up to 3 blinks this morning. tried shutting it off to clear. tried cleaning the probe. checked the probe wires thinking maybe one came off seeing as it is brand new. leave it unplugged for 10 minutes, plug it it in and it immediately turns blowers on in off position and goes to 3 blinks. usually this has some to do with the probe doesnt it?
This is still the old board so I am tempted to swap it out for the new board. seems to have 2x pin codes for the P68 stove. one is 4RPM the other is 6RPM. I have an older model, can tell by the holes in the burn pot close to the auger. If there is another way I can check.
Is it correct to assume I have the 4RPM model due to it being older? Is there some marking somewhere to state the RPM?

 

[Mt Bob]

So I woke up to 3 blinks this morning. tried shutting it off to clear. tried cleaning the probe. checked the probe wires thinking maybe one came off seeing as it is brand new. leave it unplugged for 10 minutes, plug it it in and it immediately turns blowers on in off position and goes to 3 blinks. usually this has some to do with the probe doesnt it?
This is still the old board so I am tempted to swap it out for the new board. seems to have 2x pin codes for the P68 stove. one is 4RPM the other is 6RPM. I have an older model, can tell by the holes in the burn pot close to the auger. If there is another way I can check.
Is it correct to assume I have the 4RPM model due to it being older? Is there some marking somewhere to state the RPM?

# blinks means the board does not "see" the probe, make sure it is plugged in,and connections are tight,and wires have not been damaged. Or the probe went bad. Or the board went bad.As far as which stove motor you need-
This 4 RPM auger feed motor has a clockwise rotation (CW) as viewed from the shaft side. This motor is used ONLY used in direct drive applications where the motor is attached directly to the auger for the following models:

• Invincible Insert, Invincible T, Invincible RS
• Accentra Insert
• P35i, P35i-C
• P38, P38+, PP38++
• P43, P43-C
• P61, P61A, P61-C
• P68 - pre serial: 008280309
• PF100 Furnace - pre serial: 008350087
• Accentra52i , Accentra52i-TC

• Older feed motors dating prior to 2006 may use a feed/ auger motor that has a cooling fan on the back of the motor. Updated auger motors do not have this fan anymore as it is not required. Replacement fans for older auger motors is part # 3-20-08791
• Accentra-Cast, XXV and the Advance made before 2009 use an indirect chain-drive feed system and require a CCW spinning motor, part # 3-20-08752.
• Accentra FS, XXV and Advance made in 2009 and after have the redesigned UL feeder body and use auger motor part # 3-20-00677
• P68 pellet stoves (Pre serial # 008280309) used this motor. Current P68 units (After serial # 008280308) have a 6 RPM auger motor part # 3-20-09302
• This information is included in a 2008 Technical Update from Harman

 

[SininStyle]

# blinks means the board does not "see" the probe, make sure it is plugged in,and connections are tight,and wires have not been damaged. Or the probe went bad. Or the board went bad.As far as which stove motor you need-
This 4 RPM auger feed motor has a clockwise rotation (CW) as viewed from the shaft side. This motor is used ONLY used in direct drive applications where the motor is attached directly to the auger for the following models:

• Invincible Insert, Invincible T, Invincible RS
• Accentra Insert
• P35i, P35i-C
• P38, P38+, PP38++
• P43, P43-C
• P61, P61A, P61-C
• P68 - pre serial: 008280309
• PF100 Furnace - pre serial: 008350087
• Accentra52i , Accentra52i-TC

• Older feed motors dating prior to 2006 may use a feed/ auger motor that has a cooling fan on the back of the motor. Updated auger motors do not have this fan anymore as it is not required. Replacement fans for older auger motors is part # 3-20-08791
• Accentra-Cast, XXV and the Advance made before 2009 use an indirect chain-drive feed system and require a CCW spinning motor, part # 3-20-08752.
• Accentra FS, XXV and Advance made in 2009 and after have the redesigned UL feeder body and use auger motor part # 3-20-00677
• P68 pellet stoves (Pre serial # 008280309) used this motor. Current P68 units (After serial # 008280308) have a 6 RPM auger motor part # 3-20-09302
• This information is included in a 2008 Technical Update from Harman

Yeah, has the cooling fan. The manual says 4RPM but who knows if those things ever get updated as they print.
serial number is is half the length at those given for time of switch. Also has stamped Oct 2006.
Appreciate the info, very helpful.

It was the probe, brand new probe. I put an old one back and its working as intended. Silly me for assuming "new" meant "working" lol

 

[Mt Bob]

Ya, bad new part. You possibly may get a refund,depending on whom you purchased it from. My Accentra is still running the old original old style probe, but I ran a new one when I rebuilt it, so it would be simple to "install. But it just will not seem to die.

 

[SininStyle]

Ya, bad new part. You possibly may get a refund,depending on whom you purchased it from. My Accentra is still running the old original old style probe, but I ran a new one when I rebuilt it, so it would be simple to "install. But it just will not seem to die.

bought it years ago as a backup because it feels like every issue comes from that stupid probe lol