Pacific energy super 27 dosent seem to be throwing out a lot of heat

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hockeyspade

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Nov 2, 2014
25
ont, can
I just bought and self installed a super 27 about 4 days ago. So far very inimpressed with the amount of heat it seems to be putting out. Example I woke up to a great (extremely impressed with burn time) bed of coals. I threw 4 logs on fire. I left draft open 30 40 %. A few hours later i can stll put my hand less then an inch from stove with no discomfort. A friend of mine has the next model up (summit). When its really pumping out the heat that isnt really possible. So a little concerned Ive don something wrong.

It was an existing chimney that i just slid a pld stove out for this one. I took out the knock out for the pedistal which is very important for proper draft. Not worried about chimney as the draw worked fine for old stove.
Only thing I can think of is the stove needs a few fires to break it in. This is day 4 of having pretty much a constant fire going. So I dont think it that now?

Any Idea's?

Thanks
 
Why are you only opening up the draft 30-40% on reload?

I treat reload just like start up. Load splits onto coals, open draft into the start position and within 5 minutes have a fire again. Then adjust draft from there.
Typically I'll have the whole reload process back to secondaries and draft off in 30 minutes.
 
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I just bought and self installed a super 27 about 4 days ago. So far very inimpressed with the amount of heat it seems to be putting out. Example I woke up to a great (extremely impressed with burn time) bed of coals. I threw 4 logs on fire. I left draft open 30 40 %. A few hours later i can stll put my hand less then an inch from stove with no discomfort. A friend of mine has the next model up (summit). When its really pumping out the heat that isnt really possible. So a little concerned Ive don something wrong.

It was an existing chimney that i just slid a pld stove out for this one. I took out the knock out for the pedistal which is very important for proper draft. Not worried about chimney as the draw worked fine for old stove.
Only thing I can think of is the stove needs a few fires to break it in. This is day 4 of having pretty much a constant fire going. So I dont think it that now?

Any Idea's?

Thanks

While it is possible (in the same sense that any absurd scenario is cosmically possible) that your stove is defective, the following are far more likely (in the same sense that any other possibilities can be ruled out)

1) your wood is wet

2) your chimney is blocked

3) your chimney is too short
 
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Also I see you mention putting on 4 logs...how full is the firebox? I'll only throw in a small handful of splits if I just need to take the chill out. But this stove likes to be loaded up if you're looking for heat output...at least to the top of the firebricks.

I guess I've never really judged the heat output of the stove by feel, but rather how well it heats the area over time.
Are you sure you're burning dry wood? Maybe try some wood bricks or known-dry wood?
 
Aside from the points mentioned already:
Does the chimney have an (insulated) 6" liner?
New stoves need some break-in fires to drive out moisture from the firebricks. Have you done those already?
 
Why are you only opening up the draft 30-40% on reload?

I treat reload just like start up. Load splits onto coals, open draft into the start position and within 5 minutes have a fire again. Then adjust draft from there.
Typically I'll have the whole reload process back to secondaries and draft off in 30 minutes.

SOrry should have been more specific. I reload fire in basicly as you do. I meant after I get it going I'm putting at 30 40 % .
 
While it is possible (in the same sense that any absurd scenario is cosmically possible) that your stove is defective, the following are far more likely (in the same sense that any other possibilities can be ruled out)

1) your wood is wet

2) your chimney is blocked

3) your chimney is too short

Most of the wood is last years and dry. I do Have some of this years wood in here. It has been in basement for a couple of months . I have it fairly close to stove and it has dried out fairly well. I tought of this as well and for last 2 days have only been burning last year's wood.

AS for chimney . As I stated in 1st post it is an existing one. Have no concern about height as have used for 8 years and has always work graer for draw etc. As for be blocked. It is ok is fine from above and cleaned out old pipes when I installed new stove,
 
Also I see you mention putting on 4 logs...how full is the firebox? I'll only throw in a small handful of splits if I just need to take the chill out. But this stove likes to be loaded up if you're looking for heat output...at least to the top of the firebricks.

I guess I've never really judged the heat output of the stove by feel, but rather how well it heats the area over time.
Are you sure you're burning dry wood? Maybe try some wood bricks or known-dry wood?

The 4 logs are near top of bricks as I wanted to know what my max out put will be.
The reason I brought up the hand close to stove with no discomfort was as an example of how my friends stove behaves. Its a size up but when it really going u cant comfortable do that of sit within 5 6 feet of his stove.

As for dry wood I answered that in a reply to an other answer
 
What model was your old stove? That your chimney worked with it is no assurance that it will work with a modern EPA-stove which is much more dependent on good draft.

FWIW, I also have my reservation about wood drying well in a basement. Usually, it needs lots of sun and wind to dry out well and a few days next to the stove will not dry out any firewood. Did you split some pieces and tested the fresh surface with a moisture meter? Alternatively, buy some compressed wood logs like Bio-bricks or Envi-blocks or get some lumber scraps and see how those burn.
 
Aside from the points mentioned already:
Does the chimney have an (insulated) 6" liner?
New stoves need some break-in fires to drive out moisture from the firebricks. Have you done those already?

I have about 5 or 6 feet of double walled insulated pipe which is build into an ( had a VERY small non air tight stove I ripped out and covered in and build to make work with a woodstove. Done by a pro) existing brick/block chimney. Again this is an existing set up just replaced stove. I did have to make 2 changes to set up( just because stove had differant set up. replaced 36 inch lenght with a 38 telescopic lenght an had 2 add a 6 inch piece from elbow to last piece. Again Just stove' are a little differant. So positive pipes are completely fine.

As I stated In 1st post I have had a fairly good fire going for 4 days now. So I think mositure in bricks shoulkd be dried out by now.
 
What model was your old stove? That your chimney worked with it is no assurance that it will work with a modern EPA-stove which is much more dependent on good draft.

FWIW, I also have my reservation about wood drying well in a basement. Usually, it needs lots of sun and wind to dry out well and a few days next to the stove will not dry out any firewood. Did you split some pieces and tested the fresh surface with a moisture meter? Alternatively, buy some compressed wood logs like Bio-bricks or Envi-blocks or get some lumber scraps and see how those burn.


I had a concern maybe this years wood was still damp. So for last 2 days have only burnt last years wood. So I know it is quite dry.

I will have to check and see about draft. Fyi. All the wood has been bruning fine. It not that im not getting a good fire or wood is smoldering. It just dosent seem to be pumping out as much heat as I was expecting.
My house i s JUST over 2000 ft. I have a couple of rooms I close off in winter. so Knocks it down to around 1600. So Well within stoves limits to heat house well.

My old stove is aabout 24 year old regencey. Dont know model. Bought it for $75 used. It was a big stove which did a nice job.
 
I've never run a non-cat but I'd think you should be able to cut the air lower than that once the stove is burning, it draft is good. Are you seeing the secondary burn flames in the top of the fire box? Does this chimney have a tile liner? What are the inside dimensions of the liner? Like Bigg_Redd said, is the chimney tall enough? Does the wood bubble out moisture or hiss when tossed on a big coal bed?
 
What is the total height of the chimney? From stove top to daylight. And inside dimensions. And material. And how many elbows? A pic might help. The 27 is a pretty easy breather, but you still need it set up properly.

What is 'last year's wood'? Was it split and stacked last summer? Fall? If it's oak, I'll garuntee it ain't dry.

I take it you don't have a stove top thermometer. The Super 27 is very much a convective heater. You'll get a bunch of radiant heat off the top and from the glass, but the side shields limit what you might feel from the sides. Not sure about your old Regency, so maybe it just feels different. I guess the question is, are you warm?

I don't know if it's any comparison, mine is on a 13'ish, straight up, insulated class A chimney. It hits 650° pretty easily with the air open about 10%. That's pretty well filled with really dry wood, a couple of big splits and filled in with smaller ones. I pack it up to the baffle.
 
I don't know if it's any comparison, mine is on a 13'ish, straight up, insulated class A chimney. It hits 650° pretty easily with the air open about 10%. That's pretty well filled with really dry wood, a couple of big splits and filled in with smaller ones. I pack it up to the baffle.
I Burn my PE the same as jeff_t, Thats when it's really cold out. Right now I use a bit less wood as it's not real cold yet. I have no problem getting heat out of her, Most of the time it's 75+ degree's in the front half of my house, 1200 sqft open floor plan. {Is your ash dump door closed Tight} Inspect it to make sure theirs no coals holding it from closing, {If you have a air leak your just blowing your heat right up and out the chimney}. I run about 1.5" ash bed, Not coals, Ash, With coals on top. Load it up, char it good,Wood will look black then throttle her back slowly to about 10% air you should be Golden. Rake your coals to the front let them burn down.If you get to many coals witch can happen with oak rake them to the front and put a split on top of them east to west and open up your air they will burn right down Repeat the above if ya need more heat. There is a learning curve with these new stoves, But the PE can pump out some serious heat. You can make a nice rake out of an old garden hoe, Cut the wood handle off and have someone weld a 24" steel handle on it. Thats the only tool i use. You will get it sorted out, Have your friend swing by for some help and a cold one !! Jay
 
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What kind of wood are you burning? That might help to know. If youre burning softwoods your dry times might be good but if its oak you are off. I burn mostly softwoods and have to close it down at some point or my stove will get to hot, rarely have draft issues. Heats the house quite well. I havent been able to run the stove full time yet as its been to warm and would get pushed out of my house, -18 c coming in a few days so I will get my chance! Good luck getting it figured out. Im sure the guys will be able to help you get it sorted out.
 
For the record, this stove is in our vacation place. I've burned it on maybe a dozen different occasions for long weekends, including a week of sub zero temps. It is very easy to get the hang of with good draft and dry wood, at least one of which is lacking here, I think.
 
Do you have a stove top thermometer? It would help a lot if we knew what temperatures the stove is operating at. A flue thermometer would also be helpful in determining the burn efficiency. Also a picture of the install may help as well.

As for the wood supply, are you measuring the actual moisture content with a meter? That's really the only way to know for sure. All EPA style stoves are designed for 20-25% moisture content, and it really does make a big difference.
 
I have a suspicion that last years wood, still ain't dry enough.
 
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Heavy coals can indicate damp wood. Modern stoves really want fully seasoned wood.

The new stove will not run like the old stove. They have entirely different burn design and characteristics. With good dry wood you should be able to turn down the air, in increments to almost all the way closed. If that is not possible it could be that while the chimney was adequate for the old stove it is producing insufficient draft for the new stove. Damp wood will compound this issue resulting is low temps.

Is there a thermometer on the stove top? If so what is it reading?
 
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Not to mention he left the draft open 30-40%.
Something wrong there.
 
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Not to mention he left the draft open 30-40%.
Something wrong there.
Well, maybe, maybe not. Depends on the wood and the load. This year for the first time, I'm burning fairly low grade fir from free christmas tree stumps. What I've noticed is that I need a quite a bit more air for that wood than the hardwood I burned the previous two years. It's still good wood and under 20%, but it burns differently.

Still, I agree, the OP's wood is suspect until it is measured for moisture content. As I always preach, you gotta measure it.
 
What is the total height of the chimney? From stove top to daylight. And inside dimensions. And material. And how many elbows? A pic might help. The 27 is a pretty easy breather, but you still need it set up properly.

What is 'last year's wood'? Was it split and stacked last summer? Fall? If it's oak, I'll garuntee it ain't dry.

I take it you don't have a stove top thermometer. The Super 27 is very much a convective heater. You'll get a bunch of radiant heat off the top and from the glass, but the side shields limit what you might feel from the sides. Not sure about your old Regency, so maybe it just feels different. I guess the question is, are you warm?

I don't know if it's any comparison, mine is on a 13'ish, straight up, insulated class A chimney. It hits 650° pretty easily with the air open about 10%. That's pretty well filled with really dry wood, a couple of big splits and filled in with smaller ones. I pack it up to the baffle.
 
My last years wood is 2 years old. It is 70% maple the resh combo of oak iron wood. It is definitely dry. Only reason I had some of rhis years wood in basement is is last winter was so LONG AND cold burnt twice as much wood as normal. (I have an 9by 11 section that I can make 2 and a half piles within 3 ft of stove. So I stack my inside row with this years wood. Takes over a month to get to it. If I still thino its damp I stack another row of laat years. If I can.)

As for pipe hieght. Im not at home right now so can do a pick. Will put one up later. So for now. 38 straight into 45 elbow to about 18 inch straight. Witch then is cemented into brick chimney. Theni guess u would call it a 45 into block chimney. my house is 2 stories. It goes up middle of house and split peak and it its a good 3 feet above peak.
 
The odds are this is the wood. The best way to verify this is with a moisture meter on the freshly exposed face of a re-split. An alternative would be to get a couple store bought bundles and try them out.
It wouldn't hurt to investigate the chimney just in case it is compounding the issue. It sounds like there is no stainless liner in the chimney? Is that correct? If yes, what is the clay tile ID in the chimney? Another potential area is the cleanout door. It should be sealed tightly so that it doesn't dilute draft. If it is not, try temporarily duct taping it shut.
 
I bought a new pacific energy super 27 on a pedestal. It is my primary heat source. I have a newish oil furnace that I use about a half a tank a year on. Nice to have if u want to take off for weekend.

Congratulations on your new stove! (This is from your other post, thought I would put it here with this one.)

I see many folks with years of use on these new stoves have posted to help out : ) Good luck.

First thing we had to do was buy a Moisture Meter to check our wood. You can order one online or buy in a Lowes or Home Depot or somewhere like that. Maybe 20 US Dollars or so.. and well worth it.

The new stoves are very very picky about having super dry wood.
 
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