Pacific Energy t5 burns too quickly

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I asked the people who installed the stove and they said better not to do that as its been set to burn correctly, I sure don't see how this is correct
Then tell them they need to come out and set the stove up so it will run properly. You payed for a professional install make them give you what you paid for
 
Those Rutland thermometers are junk, probably reads 100+ high.
They really are not junk. Yes you will get some that are off but not all of them by any means
 
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No, double wall stove pipe does not necessarily have vents. Mine does not.

The idea is to loose less heat. So I won't not want any vents...
 
In the OP's pic does that look like a double wall?....I thought they have air vents on the outer pipe, no?
No most are not ventilated. Just the cheap stuff.

I can't tell from that pic if it is or not. I am just going by what they reported
 
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maybe I should buy a probe meter, so that actually pierces the pipe through a tiny hole?
Yes. A probe thermometer is required for double-wall stovepipe. The odds are that the fire has too small wood, is loosely stacked, and the air is not being closed down quickly enough. All the above will lead to a very robust combustion. All are user controllable.
 
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My Pacific Energy t5 Alderlea wood stove is burning way to quick with air shut off. With a temperature gauge at 18 inches above the stove on my double walled pipe it gets to 600 degrees even with air shut off and sometimes higher. I had the door adjusted for a tighter fit and it is still burning very quickly.
Can anyone offer any suggestions! I am very wary of putting much wood in it at night. Thanks for help ahead of time. I"m new to being on this forum so any help would be so greatly appreciated! This photo is with the air shut completely off!

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Send us the stt and flue temps when you get them. Adding a damper at the stove top is ok...pe actually sent a memo out and someone posted it on a past thread. Knowing the draft would help too....but it seems this is a common theme now with pe stoves...
The good news is the stt can take 800 without any glow....not sure what the max tempnrange is. Not in my manual.

What species of wood are you burning?...based on my experiences this does make a difference.
 
Yes. A probe thermometer is required for double-wall stovepipe. The odds are that the fire has too small wood, is loosely stacked, and the air is not being closed down quickly enough. All the above will lead to a very robust combustion. All are user controllable.
problem is, I let it burn for 10 minutes wide open , then completely close the damper and flames basically go out but within 15 minutes its a full blaze again with damper completely closed
 
Send us the stt and flue temps when you get them. Adding a damper at the stove top is ok...pe actually sent a memo out and someone posted it on a past thread. Knowing the draft would help too....but it seems this is a common theme now with pe stoves...
The good news is the stt can take 800 without any glow....not sure what the max tempnrange is. Not in my manual.

What species of wood are you burning?...based on my experiences this does make a difference.
buring all hard wood oak, this is not a pellet stove. My stove pipe is double walled and the outside temp easily goes to 600 degrees so inside has to be much hotter. My thermometer is about 18 " above the stove on the pipe
 
you need to look at the fire box each time you close the air inlet ..and close in stages. mark it with a pencil to learn and get an idea each time... if you see the flames rush towards the glass and die out its too much...then wait to you see flames going full again across the width of the stove and close some more and repeat.. plan on sitting down watching the stove each time...it takes about 15-20 minutes...if you have one year old wood you will get poor results with turning the air down....plan on opening the inlet air later near the end of the burn to help with coaling.
 
buring all hard wood oak, this is not a pellet stove. My stove pipe is double walled and the outside temp easily goes to 600 degrees so inside has to be much hotter. My thermometer is about 18 " above the stove on the pipe
how long has the wood been split "and" covered? Have you split and measured moisture content? My two year read oak still isn't ready, but close.

I never said it was a pellet stove. You can measure the draft. You dont measure double wall temps from the outside. Must be internal probe and you can put current gauge on the stove top. But 600 is too high for outside of pipe...

Use less wood until you get the gauge and close air sooner and in stages.

Since you dont have a double wall probe, just a reminder make sure you get some gloves, ir temp gun, metal bucket, moisture meter, co detector, fire extinguisher with hose and other safety tools.
 
you need to look at the fire box each time you close the air inlet ..and close in stages. mark it with a pencil to learn and get an idea each time... if you see the flames rush towards the glass and die out its too much...then wait to you see flames going full again across the width of the stove and close some more and repeat.. plan on sitting down watching the stove each time...it takes about 15-20 minutes...if you have one year old wood you will get poor results with turning the air down....plan on opening the inlet air later near the end of the burn to help with coaling.
thanks again for responding! that is kind of what I do, the wood is over one year old and protected from moisture
in the photo here this is with it totally closed for maybe 15 minutes and here is also the temperature . All of these photos are with teh damper totally closed for at least 15 or 20 minutes

Pacific Energy t5 Aldera stove.jpg pacific energy t5 2.jpg pacific energy t5 3jpg.jpg
 
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how long has the wood been split "and" covered? Have you split and measured moisture content? My two year read oak still isn't ready, but close.

I never said it was a pellet stove. You can measure the draft. You dont measure double wall temps from the outside. Must be internal probe and you can put current gauge on the stove top. But 600 is too high for outside of pipe...

Use less wood until you get the gauge and close air sooner and in stages.

Since you dont have a double wall probe, just a reminder make sure you get some gloves, ir temp gun, metal bucket, moisture meter, co detector, fire extinguisher with hose and other safety tools.
I will for sure do that , yesterday I pulled back the two cooking grates on top to get a better idea of the actual stove temperature and it was between 700 and 800 and that is when flu temp measured 500 degrees. Yes I will for sure get the proper temperature gage that inserts into the flu. I was actually wondering why on some of the wood even being a year and a half old and covered still once in a while has a sizzling sound. I just cleaned my flu and there was only a third of a cup of creosole! I guess because it burns so hot that it does not have a chance to form. How do you measure the draft???? once again thanks so much for help. I have the installer and company who installed the stove coming over right now to look at it, anything you think I might ask him?
 
Instead of closing all the way leave a quarter inch or so and be prepared it will creep in temp for an hour or so. Show us a photo of how you load it on a reburn. many claim to stack tightly and will help.

What stove did you have before that chimney?

Also the chimney is rusting at the base?

The wood in the rack at the top might burn ok but the bottom will get hit from wind and rain. Ive never had good clean burns with one year oak. Id still split and measure the moisture. The big pieces will be the worst in moisture.
 
I will for sure do that , yesterday I pulled back the two cooking grates on top to get a better idea of the actual stove temperature and it was between 700 and 800 and that is when flu temp measured 500 degrees. Yes I will for sure get the proper temperature gage that inserts into the flu. I was actually wondering why on some of the wood even being a year and a half old and covered still once in a while has a sizzling sound. I just cleaned my flu and there was only a third of a cup of creosole! I guess because it burns so hot that it does not have a chance to form. How do you measure the draft???? once again thanks so much for help. I have the installer and company who installed the stove coming over right now to look at it, anything you think I might ask him?
I would get the probe installed and be on the hunt for good wood ...more testing ...then worry about draft gauge. But to measure you could use the probe hole. maybe the installers can measure draft today for you and drill the hole for the probe and just cover with magnet until the probe comes. Measure it after 15 minutes or so of a good burn.. if its over .10 then install a damper....do you get any smoke on reloads in the home? adding a pipe damper can contribute to this...even open its a restriction.
 
That's crazy hot for double wall, my single wall maxes out at maybe 550 at 10" above stove. But it runs at around 350f-400f. I bet your thermometer is off. I had one that was way off.
"
 
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Are you placing a reload of fresh seasoned wood onto a hot bed of coals rather than raking coals forward so that it's more inclined to burn front to back? Fast off-gassing of the wood will make things shoot up even with the air supply moved all the way down.

Or perhaps a lot of small splits is allowing the off-gassing to happen too quickly? The solution would be fewer, but larger splits.
 
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That's crazy hot for double wall, my single wall maxes out at maybe 550 at 10" above stove. But it runs at around 350f-400f. I bet your thermometer is off. I had one that was way off.
"
I would love that to be the problem, I have the installers who installed it so we will see., I ordered another thermometer
 
Tell them to put some screws in that double wall pipe, 3 at every joint and that goes for the adjustable section of straight pipe, too. It looks like there are holes in your outer wall, but no screws.

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Send us the stt and flue temps when you get them. Adding a damper at the stove top is ok...pe actually sent a memo out and someone posted it on a past thread. Knowing the draft would help too....but it seems this is a common theme now with pe stoves...
The good news is the stt can take 800 without any glow....not sure what the max tempnrange is. Not in my manual.

What species of wood are you burning?...based on my experiences this does make a difference.

You might be referring to my interaction with PE and my Summit. Keep in mind that, in that case, I had measured my draft and showed them exactly what I was measuring and how. They then stated that my draft was too high, and that in my specific case a stove pipe damper could be installed to help with that. It was not a general memo about all Summits or all PE stoves. I have a 25'+ chimney that drafts hard.
I just wanted to make that clarification about my interaction with PE. You could be referring to another, more general, memo that I missed.
 
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You might be referring to my interaction with PE and my Summit. Keep in mind that, in that case, I had measured my draft and showed them exactly what I was measuring and how. They then stated that my draft was too high, and that in my specific case a stove pipe damper could be installed to help with that. It was not a general memo about all Summits or all PE stoves. I have a 25'+ chimney that drafts hard.
I just wanted to make that clarification about my interaction with PE. You could be referring to another, more general, memo that I missed.
Probably was your post. I measured my draft and it ranges between .12 and .14., which is too high, but good for a clean chimney. I m starting to think its not a specific case anymore. There are way too many people complaining now. That doesn't mean the stove is bad but its definitely burning at top of the hot zone with no control. My chimney is only 17 feet and you count the stove say 20 feet max. Another odd fact is i cant see any videos from PE with STT or Flue probes showing full burns. This is why I would like people to post their draft readings. If PE sent it too you they must be giving it out to other customers? That's what i meant about memo...a lot PE stoves use the same parts and design.

What stove results did you see with damper?