PE Alderlea T6 install before and after pictures

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sierra bob

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 6, 2009
18
northern ca sierra 4000'
Finally got my FPX torn out and a PE Alderlea T6 installed over the holidays.

Here are a few before and after pictures....

Am really loving the stove.

Will try to post a couple of action shots when I get a chance (with the cat in front, no doubt)...

Bob
 

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Wow, that's a big change! Nicely done.
 
Thanks, BeGreen, we absolutely love the T6.

We chose the T6 in part because of your many posts...thanks.

(As I recall, your T6 came from Bellingham. My mom grew up in Bellingham in the 30s and 40s....)
 
FYI, to achieve reduced clearances, we used a double wall (spaced an inch off the dry wall).

Since we wanted a smooth finished wall, we used greeneboard (NOT green board) instead of the other cement boards. It has both a smooth side and a rough side, and is noncombustable.

http://www.greeneboard.com/index.html

You might notice, we left a 1" gap at the bottom for air flow. We also left a 1" gap at the top, which is not shown in the photo.
 
sierra bob said:
FYI, to achieve reduced clearances, we used a double wall (spaced an inch off the dry wall).

Since we wanted a smooth finished wall, we used greeneboard (NOT green board) instead of the other cement boards. It has both a smooth side and a rough side, and is noncombustable.

http://www.greeneboard.com/index.html

You might notice, we left a 1" gap at the bottom for air flow. We also left a 1" gap at the top, which is not shown in the photo.


I want to do this when I install the Fireview. When it comes to clearances, is it treated like a non-combustible? What paint did you use? Was it a form of high temperature paint?
 
You'll need to check with your county building department as to their requirements, and I am CERTAINLY no expert....

...that being said, our building department follows the NFPA 211 Standard, so we used a " 1/2" thick noncombustible insulation board with ventilated air space ", and painted it with interior house paint. We were only an inch or so short of unprotected clearance, and the walls don't get hot, so I'm hoping the paint will be OK in the long run. The vendor who sold me the board said you can hold a torch to the board and it won't burn....

Do you have a knowledgeable dealer in your area, perhaps you can consult with them. The dealers in our area are not very knowledgeable.....unfortunately.
 
sierra bob said:
You'll need to check with your county building department as to their requirements, and I am CERTAINLY no expert....

...that being said, our building department follows the NFPA 211 Standard, so we used a " 1/2" thick noncombustible insulation board with ventilated air space ", and painted it with interior house paint. We were only an inch or so short of unprotected clearance, and the walls don't get hot, so I'm hoping the paint will be OK in the long run. The vendor who sold me the board said you can hold a torch to the board and it won't burn....

Do you have a knowledgeable dealer in your area, perhaps you can consult with them. The dealers in our area are not very knowledgeable.....unfortunately.


Thanks, I will contact them tomorrow.
 
Browning, we have an interior masonry chimney in both our home and out in my studio. Both were skimcoated with Conproco "Structural Skin" to erase the mortar joints between the blocks. Both have been painted with Benjamin Moore interior paint. I used alkyd in the house and applied a dragged finish, then clearcoated with alkyd glazing compound to protect the finish. I used latex paint in the studio. Both the Fireview and the Classic sit 15" in front of the chimney and there has been no issue with the paint in either place (save the normal "yellowing" encountered with alkyd paints over time). At no time is the surface of the chimney ever too hot to rest your hand on it. We had no trouble with the inspection or the insurance company.
 
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