PF100 auger motor not running

[DJ Matt]

I have a 2009 PF100. The auger motor started failing in the past week or two. I replaced the vacuum switch. Tried a new motor. Tested the motor and it runs on it’s own. I replaced the mother board which failed on a two blink status. I have been running the furnace a few hours a day by running the auger with power independent from the furnace. (A 3 pronged plug)
The rope gasket is not in great shape so I have a new one arriving tomorrow.
The hopper gasket looks great.
I have jumped the vacuum switch with no results.
The light for the auger motor is running normal but not getting power through.
Any thing I might have missed?
Furnace is clean and the chimney is clean.
Could it just be the door gasket?
And do I need to remove the door to replace the gasket?
Thank you

 

[DJ Matt]

I have put the original motherboard back in as it seems to be working.

 

[Former Farmer]

I am not familiar with a two blink status. What does it indicate?

 

[DJ Matt]

My dealer told me, but I forgot already. I just put the original board back in for now....

 

[DJ Matt]

I wish I could find a harman dealer to service this...

 

[Mt Bob]

2 blink on the newer boards means an air flow problem. There supposedly was no 2 blink on older boards,BUT has been reported that older stoves that had the micro switch on the auger would flash a 2 blink, when that switch would screw up.

 

[DJ Matt]

That sounds right from what my Harman dealer told me on the phone. Waiting on a gasket to try to seal that up...

 

[rickwai]

Does the igniter ignite the pellets if you hand fill the pot? Or have you been lighting it manually?
I assume you have pulled the combustion fan out and cleaned that area and down the square tubes where the chains hang down? And ran the vent brush up the vent pipe thru the fan housing at least to the 1 st ell? Also Is there a chance that when cleaning the horizontal venting that you pushed ash back and caused a dam in the pipe? I doubt a door gasket will fix the problem. The door has a flapper in the bottom that leaks air in to reduce vac in the chamber.
Is the cover on the feeder behind the circuit board seated properly and tight?
Is hopper lid latches in good condition and pulling the lid down snugly?
Does yours have the line coming off the vac switch tubing that goes up to the little screen in the hopper.
I would almost bet something other that the door is not sealed properly or there is a blockage in the venting, Just from my experience servicing these units.

 

[DJ Matt]

I found the problem. Not a bad thing to share here. The vacuum switch has two wires running to the high low limiter that tells the large distribution fan to run when a temperature of 160 degrees is reached in the plenum. One of the wire points to press in the wire was melted and not holding the wire down properly sending a break to the vacuum switch. Found it with a HVAC tech who was following the wiring and testing for power at each end.

 

[rickwai]

Typically with a 2 status light blink it very rarely requires replacing a part on a Harman. Everyone wants to re[lace gaskets in that case. Unless the door or ash pan gasket is missing the vac switch will close. Typically a worn gasket will affect the quality of the burn not keep the vac switch from closing. I still have the original gaskets on my 2003 P-Series