Picked up the Striker S160, lots of newbie questions now

[kevinmoelk]

Well no pictures yet folks... sorry, but I realized that my ancient digital camera doesn't have the correct cord to adapt to my new computer. In any case, I made the drive up to Seattle today to pick up the stove. All in all 7 hrs of driving door to door, 1 hr lost due to bad directions, and some time spent loading and securing.

The stove overall seems to be in pretty good shape. I spent some time poking around and checking it out, ran a flashlight around the whole thing, looked at all the stuff this forum suggested. The stove will need to be repainted, but that's not a big deal, I didn't like the color anyway.

The gasket on the door has one spot where the fiber seems to be fraying. I think it's where the two ends meet. Should I trim the fray off? Should I glue it down? It's not bad, but I'm wondering if I should just replace the gasket.

What are the three horizontal tubes with the tiny holes on top? On top of those tubes appear to be firebrick, and on top of the firebrick is some kind of fabric material. You can see the fabric material through the flue outlet on top of the stove, but it doesn't reach all the way to the back of the stove. Is that a problem? Or normal?

There was never a outside air kit attached on this stove! Though it appears that there is a panel on the back of the stove that can be removed by unscrewing some hex head screws. Is this where the outside air kit attaches?

There was also no attic insulation guard. I guess he didn't know what it was because I specifically asked, but oh well. To secure the chimney there are two brackets on the sides of one section that I'm assuming attaches to the framing. Then there is a round cover as a beauty trim ring to go inside the house. I'm wondering if it's possible to build your own attic insulation guard. And if so how does one go about it?

What does the black knob on the bottom left hand side do? Some kind of air control I assume. It moves into and away from the stove.

I'll have more questions I'm sure. I'll try to pick up an adapter cable soon so I can post some pictures. Thanks for putting up with a newbie wood burner wanna be.

-Kevin

 

[Elderthewelder]

Well no pictures yet folks... sorry, but I realized that my ancient digital camera doesn't have the correct cord to adapt to my new computer. In any case, I made the drive up to Seattle today to pick up the stove. All in all 7 hrs of driving door to door, 1 hr lost due to bad directions, and some time spent loading and securing.

The stove overall seems to be in pretty good shape. I spent some time poking around and checking it out, ran a flashlight around the whole thing, looked at all the stuff this forum suggested. The stove will need to be repainted, but that's not a big deal, I didn't like the color anyway.

The gasket on the door has one spot where the fiber seems to be fraying. I think it's where the two ends meet. Should I trim the fray off? Should I glue it down? It's not bad, but I'm wondering if I should just replace the gasket.

What are the three horizontal tubes with the tiny holes on top? On top of those tubes appear to be firebrick, and on top of the firebrick is some kind of fabric material. You can see the fabric material through the flue outlet on top of the stove, but it doesn't reach all the way to the back of the stove. Is that a problem? Or normal?

There was never a outside air kit attached on this stove! Though it appears that there is a panel on the back of the stove that can be removed by unscrewing some hex head screws. Is this where the outside air kit attaches?

There was also no attic insulation guard. I guess he didn't know what it was because I specifically asked, but oh well. To secure the chimney there are two brackets on the sides of one section that I'm assuming attaches to the framing. Then there is a round cover as a beauty trim ring to go inside the house. I'm wondering if it's possible to build your own attic insulation guard. And if so how does one go about it?

What does the black knob on the bottom left hand side do? Some kind of air control I assume. It moves into and away from the stove.

I'll have more questions I'm sure. I'll try to pick up an adapter cable soon so I can post some pictures. Thanks for putting up with a newbie wood burner wanna be.

-Kevin

Wrench

congrats on the new Country stove

Dont worry about the gasket to much, mine was frayed a bit when I got it new form the dealer, works just fine, leave it alone

the 3 tubes on the top with the holes are your secondary burn tubes, I am sure you have read about secondary burn here on this site. That is what those are. all is good, the fabric material is a insulation blanket that Country puts on top of the upper bricks, it is suppose to do 2 things. 1) stop any ambers from going up the liner and 2) according to the Country web site keep more heat in the fire box. I personally took mine out, as did friends of mine with a Country stove, the dealer actually told me , if you have problems drafting to take out this blanket

The black knob on the bottom left is your air intake , pull it out when starting a fire, adjust inward as fire continues, should have 4 notches on it, use them as a guide as to where to set it for optimum burn . look for the secondary burn to kick in
find ou more on thier web site
http://www.countrystoves.com/documents/Wood_Freestanding_Brochure.pdf

http://www.countrystoves.com/products.htm

 

[CountryGal]

Well no pictures yet folks... sorry, but I realized that my ancient digital camera doesn't have the correct cord to adapt to my new computer. In any case, I made the drive up to Seattle today to pick up the stove. All in all 7 hrs of driving door to door, 1 hr lost due to bad directions, and some time spent loading and securing.

The stove overall seems to be in pretty good shape. I spent some time poking around and checking it out, ran a flashlight around the whole thing, looked at all the stuff this forum suggested. The stove will need to be repainted, but that's not a big deal, I didn't like the color anyway.

The gasket on the door has one spot where the fiber seems to be fraying. I think it's where the two ends meet. Should I trim the fray off? Should I glue it down? It's not bad, but I'm wondering if I should just replace the gasket.

What are the three horizontal tubes with the tiny holes on top? On top of those tubes appear to be firebrick, and on top of the firebrick is some kind of fabric material. You can see the fabric material through the flue outlet on top of the stove, but it doesn't reach all the way to the back of the stove. Is that a problem? Or normal?

There was never a outside air kit attached on this stove! Though it appears that there is a panel on the back of the stove that can be removed by unscrewing some hex head screws. Is this where the outside air kit attaches?

There was also no attic insulation guard. I guess he didn't know what it was because I specifically asked, but oh well. To secure the chimney there are two brackets on the sides of one section that I'm assuming attaches to the framing. Then there is a round cover as a beauty trim ring to go inside the house. I'm wondering if it's possible to build your own attic insulation guard. And if so how does one go about it?

What does the black knob on the bottom left hand side do? Some kind of air control I assume. It moves into and away from the stove.

I'll have more questions I'm sure. I'll try to pick up an adapter cable soon so I can post some pictures. Thanks for putting up with a newbie wood burner wanna be.

-Kevin

Yes, there is a panel on the back for outside air kit. The knob on the left controls the air: all the way out is open; all the way pushed in is closed. The tubes are secondary burn tubes and we have the fabric blanket and we have great draft.

 

[CountryGal]

Oh, we were also told to make sure before opening the door to add logs---open the air intake before you open the door. You can close the air control again after you close the door. That prevents the flames from coming out of the door towards you.

 

[BrotherBart]

Oh, we were also told to make sure before opening the door to add logs---open the air intake before you open the door. You can close the air control again after you close the door. That prevents the flames from coming out of the door towards you.

And takes all of the fun out of wood burning. And leaves you with eyebrows and stuff.

 

[MrGriz]

Congrats Wrench! Can't wait to see it in action. Everyone else nailed it so that's all I have to say.

 

[kevinmoelk]

Thanks for the tips and suggestions everyone. I've done some research and investigation and figured some things out. The large panel on the back seems to be for an add on blower fan. I can look down the back and there is a circular cut out behind the panel, so I'm assuming that's the purpose of the removable panel.

There is a panel on the bottom of the stove which has a center slot that leads back to the air control. I can now see the action of the lever that moves and in and out and how it controls the simple block off device to control the flow of air. I'm assuming that this center channel is where the outside air kit gets installed. I think I'm going to try and just fabricate one myself out of some galvanized sheet, rather than buy one for $50 bucks or whatever it costs. Maybe if it's only 10-15 bucks I'll purchase one.

I'm still curious as to the attic insulation guard. It seems to me that if the chimney is supported by the brackets, all one would have to do is to create a sheet metal box to contain the insulation away from the chimney. I'm hoping you guys jump in here and let me know. I'd rather spend 1/2 hour of my time and $10 bucks in materials making one than buying one. I seem to recall the attic insulation guard costs near $100. However, if this is dangerous or more complicated I want to know. No need to skimp at this point.

-Kevin

 

[begreen]

Good to hear that you made it over and back through the fog safely. Contact Comfort for a manual so that you have a document for clearances, and installation particulars. That will make inspection go easier. In your old house I wouldn't worry about outside air unless pressed to connect by the inspector. I'd also leave the blanket in. The fire should burn hotter with it in and secondaries should ignite faster. With a new stack draft shouldn't be an issue.

As to the chimney and attic guard, can you sketch up a simple drawing and post it so that we can see what you are seeing?

 

[kevinmoelk]

Good to hear that you made it over and back through the fog safely. Contact Comfort for a manual so that you have a document for clearances, and installation particulars. That will make inspection go easier. In your old house I wouldn't worry about outside air unless pressed to connect by the inspector. I'd also leave the blanket in. The fire should burn hotter with it in and secondaries should ignite faster. With a new stack draft shouldn't be an issue.

As to the chimney and attic guard, can you sketch up a simple drawing and post it so that we can see what you are seeing?

Thanks BeGreen. I did send an e-mail earlier tonight asking for a manual, hopefully will receive tomorrow and I'm sure many questions will be answered.

As for the outside air kit, I plan on installing one. Despite my house being old and drafty now, in years to come as windows get replaced and things get sealed up the home will become a great deal tighter I suspect. Besides, I figure why not? Right now I still don't have a ceiling put up in the basement, so it will be much easier to install too. And, before I actually hook the device up I'll test both with and without and hopefully provide some insight and observations on the much debated OAK.

My attic insulation guard idea is simply a sheet metal box. So:

----------
l ........ l
l ..O...... l
l ........ l
----------

Chimney undersized in the picture of course. I was just thinking about taking 24" tall sheet metal and making a box that would simply sit around the chimney to maintain the required clearance away from combustibles. It would be open both top and bottom. I hope my explanation is okay. Let's submit post and see how my picture comes out! Ignore the dots.

-Kevin

Eh! I give up trying to make the picture right.

 

[CountryGal]

Good to hear that you made it over and back through the fog safely. Contact Comfort for a manual so that you have a document for clearances, and installation particulars. That will make inspection go easier. In your old house I wouldn't worry about outside air unless pressed to connect by the inspector. I'd also leave the blanket in. The fire should burn hotter with it in and secondaries should ignite faster. With a new stack draft shouldn't be an issue.

As to the chimney and attic guard, can you sketch up a simple drawing and post it so that we can see what you are seeing?

The clearances for the S160 are on their web site Here.