I have a Jøtul F 600 and picked up a bunch of scrap wood from a new home construction site by my home. All roof stringers I believe to be pine. Is it safe to burn this wood in my woodstove? any advice would be welcomed.
Pine from lumber yard
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It's ok to burn, just be aware that because it's pine and likely kiln dried, it's going to burn hot and fast. Don't put a full load of it in your stove (best used to start the fire and get some coals going) and keep an eye on stove top temps. Overfiring is never good for any stove......
NP
NP
Good advice about overfire.
Also beware of throttling down too much.
With Pine, the low temp "creosote" area on your stove top thermometer really means what it says.
Also beware of throttling down too much.
With Pine, the low temp "creosote" area on your stove top thermometer really means what it says.
Good advice about overfire.
Also beware of underfire (throttling down too much).
With Pine, the low temp "creosote" area on your stove top thermometer really means what it says
Also beware of underfire (throttling down too much).
With Pine, the low temp "creosote" area on your stove top thermometer really means what it says
SolarAndWood said:
Nope. If it were all of those pellet stoves out there burning softwood pellets would be plugged up with creosote. They aren't.
SolarAndWood said:
Being pine has nothing to do with it. Burning too fast with not enough oxygen can be an issue, but it has nothing to do with being pine. Dagnabbit. I burn kiln-dried stuff all the time, but I mix it with air-dried wood. No full loads of dimensional lumber.
madrone said:
Didn't mean to push the pine button, I burn it all the time. I couldn't figure out how one would get creosote from any kiln dried lumber without respect to species, age, method of harvest, size or finish.
Well, alright then. I take back the dagnabbit.
http://www.woodheat.org/tips/drywood.htm
This refers to emissions, but it seems to me that if the chimney's not hot enough the extra smoke might condense.
http://www.woodheat.org/tips/drywood.htm
This refers to emissions, but it seems to me that if the chimney's not hot enough the extra smoke might condense.
Another issue is overheating the chimney if you have a metal chimney if it's a masonry one it should be ok. Just burn in a mixed load with no more than 1/4 of the kiln dried and all should be fine.
I work part time with a builder also. I always get a great supply of dimensional lumber from him that I store in the garage. I only mix a few pieces at a time with my seasoned stuff, but it seems to work fantastic. The best advise was already said,,,dont load your box up with the stuff. I also put a couple pieces on the bottom when I'm reloading..it gets the coals going quickly....
I've burned pallets made from green and kiln dried oak.
I've burned pine cut-offs from stick-building.
With the kiln-dried make smaller fires to gauge heat. It can be a bit more intense than splits firewood.
I suppose if you had a lot of moisture in the house and had it starved for air you might get a tiny bit of creosote.
Would have to have some rather rare operating conditions, I would think, from the little kiln-dried I've done.
I've burned pine cut-offs from stick-building.
With the kiln-dried make smaller fires to gauge heat. It can be a bit more intense than splits firewood.
I suppose if you had a lot of moisture in the house and had it starved for air you might get a tiny bit of creosote.
Would have to have some rather rare operating conditions, I would think, from the little kiln-dried I've done.
It's already been said, but what the heck . . . no issues . . . great for use as kindling or for starting the fire . . . or for the shoulder season fires. Just don't load the firebox to the gills with that stuff . . . being that it is kiln-dried and the size there is a good chance of over-fiiring the stove if you do that . . . otherwise, just use some common sense and fire it up. Creosote . . . nah, don't worry . . . too hot in the chimney . . . nah, creosote and high temps in the chimney can happen to anyone burning wood improperly . . . if you use a flue thermometer you should be able to keep an eye on the temps and burn not too cool (aka creating creosote) and not too hot (aka damaging the chimney, causing a chimney fire, etc.) and be in the Goldilocks Zone (aka just right) . . . regardless of whether you're burning dimensional lumber or conventional firewood.
dimensional pine is ALL i use for starting, and sometimes relight (when there are just a few coals).
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