Pipe Damper

[firecracker_77]

Does installing a pipe damper above the stove allow you to get a lot more heat out of the wood? I have a 25 food stack so pretty decent draft.

I've always thought it would be good to install one.

 

[begreen]

Some folks like the greater control. It won't hurt to try it, but may not make much of a difference. It didn't with our setup.

 

[Woody Stover]

I think if you have X amount of air going through the stove, Y amount of heat goes out the flue. I don't think a damper "holds in the heat" to any appreciable extent, but I'm not sure. Like bg, I never noticed a difference....

 

[firecracker_77]

The question is...does slowing the heat flow out allow more transfer to the room? I'm not sure it would. Might extend your overnight burn times slightly.

 

[rideau]

I'm putting a damper in this year. I installed a pipe thermometer last year, and found that even when the cat engaged the temps did not go down in the flue. I have a long pipe and strong draft. I can't shut the draft down enough to slow the fire enough, so expect the damper to cut the draft, slow the fire, allow the pipe temp t drop as it normally does when the cat is engaged. That should all mean more heat transfer to the room, less heat lost to the chimney, longer burn times. I'll find out....

 

[Backwoods Savage]

The question is...does slowing the heat flow out allow more transfer to the room? I'm not sure it would. Might extend your overnight burn times slightly.

You will not notice a difference in the heat you get into the room. The damper would be needed only if you were getting excessive draft with the chimney.

Also remember that any time you attempt to stop more heat from going up the chimney you are taking a chance. That is because that chimney has to have some warmth in order to keep the draft going. In most cases, a damper will not help an epa stove at all. But as Begreen stated, it won't hurt....so long as you understand what is happening. I'd hate to see you try to cut the draft and end up with a clogged chimney.

In addition, remember that you will have something else to clean and you won't get a brush through the damper except for a hand held wire brush.

Always remember too that if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.

 

[firecracker_77]

You will not notice a difference in the heat you get into the room. The damper would be needed only if you were getting excessive draft with the chimney.

Also remember that any time you attempt to stop more heat from going up the chimney you are taking a chance. That is because that chimney has to have some warmth in order to keep the draft going. In most cases, a damper will not help an epa stove at all. But as Begreen stated, it won't hurt....so long as you understand what is happening. I'd hate to see you try to cut the draft and end up with a clogged chimney.

In addition, remember that you will have something else to clean and you won't get a brush through the damper except for a hand held wire brush.

Always remember too that if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.

Ok...I don't want to cause any problems

 

[Woody Stover]

You will not notice a difference in the heat you get into the room. The damper would be needed only if you were getting excessive draft with the chimney.

Yeah, if you shut the primary air down past a certain point the damper won't restrict the flow any further unless you have killer draft like rideau does. The heat is only going out with the exhaust air...it's not like any radiant heat to speak of is going up the flue.

 

[begreen]

I think if you have X amount of air going through the stove, Y amount of heat goes out the flue. I don't think a damper "holds in the heat" to any appreciable extent, but I'm not sure. Like bg, I never noticed a difference....

I should qualify that. With our non-EPA stove I did notice a big difference. Just not with the T6.

 

[ridemgis]

Ok...I don't want to cause any problems

I can easily get the soot eater past the pipe damper. That said, I'll probably take it out this winter. Over the summer I bought the OAK adapter, a bit of 3 inch duct and a 3 inch key damper to fab a bit more control on the air intake. Like you, I've got about 25 feet of pipe. As some wag here noted (BrotherBart?), that's enough to "suck the carpet off the floor" when I open the door for a reload. I've done a test burn with promising results, but it's too warm now to say for sure how well it works.

On another note, per BrowningBar's instructions, closing the damper was the only way to get stove temps up near 600 last winter. If you have a flue thermometer then you've already noted how much heat our particular stove model pushes up the flue. 700 to 800 is a common flue temp when running a full load on a winter night. The damper certainly seemed to help me get more heat.

Your mileage may vary,
PJ

 

[firecracker_77]

I can easily get the soot eater past the pipe damper. That said, I'll probably take it out this winter. Over the summer I bought the OAK adapter, a bit of 3 inch duct and a 3 inch key damper to fab a bit more control on the air intake. Like you, I've got about 25 feet of pipe. As some wag here noted (BrotherBart?), that's enough to "suck the carpet off the floor" when I open the door for a reload. I've done a test burn with promising results, but it's too warm now to say for sure how well it works.

On another note, per BrowningBar's instructions, closing the damper was the only way to get stove temps up near 600 last winter. If you have a flue thermometer then you've already noted how much heat our particular stove model pushes up the flue. 700 to 800 is a common flue temp when running a full load on a winter night. The damper certainly seemed to help me get more heat.

Your mileage may vary,
PJ

Hmm...Not sure what to do. For now, I'm just focusing on making sure I have tons of fuel. Keeping that box full with high btu splits is how I get the hottest. The only part of mine that ever gets up to 600 is the cast surrounding the collar. I don't think my stone creeps much over 500 ever.