portable wood bucking stand

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Gearhead660

Minister of Fire
Dec 20, 2018
1,099
Southern WI
[Hearth.com] portable wood bucking stand

Anyone build one of these? Thinking of building one. Any pointers?
 
The neighbor moved and left behind one - so I used it for a while, and found some things I would do different.

Spacing of the vertical parts would need to be less than your usual cut length. Consider your cut length - can the stand support that, with the remaining cutoff hanging off the end.
Keep nails and fasteners out of the path of the saw blades. Sounds obvious, but the one I had, had plenty of nails holding it together, so cut into the thing a little and nails were exposed enough to make contact. Maybe consider sacrificial plates in different areas, knowing that the saw will cut into them, yet pull them and replace when wore out.
The one shown has no diagonal bracing. If it's to be left out, soon the fasteners will loosen and render it all unstable. Maybe consider treated also.
 
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Went to the shop after work and gathered all needed pieces. Threw this together quick. I am vertically blessed so i made it taller. Also used torque washers on the carriage bolts. Will have to try it out and see what modifications it needs. Thinking my back will like it.
[Hearth.com] portable wood bucking stand
 

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My sawbuck has wheels...., and it works well if I keep the blade away from the steel. I could remove the tables and it would be perfect. The ONLY problem with this setup is the oily chain debris gets all over the painted surfaces.
[Hearth.com] portable wood bucking stand
 
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I need to make one as my old one rotted away. I used glued wooden pegs on mine to get rid of the hardware problem. It stayed on my yard so portability wasn't that important.
 
My sawbuck has wheels...., and it works well if I keep the blade away from the steel. I could remove the tables and it would be perfect. The ONLY problem with this setup is the oily chain debris gets all over the painted surfaces.View attachment 260300
Never thought to use it like that. I don't take my splitter into the woods since I am usually cutting on someone else's land.
 
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Never thought to use it like that. I don't take my splitter into the woods since I am usually cutting on someone else's land.
I cut the smaller limbs and branches into six foot lengths and bring them to my staging area, then cut them up this way so I'm not bent over and cutting into the dirt. I did and can use my other splitter this way but this unit was easier to access. This unit is also easier for me to maneuver in the woods, unless I'm already there with my other unit.
 
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Do you leave the splitter run or do you restart every time you change the log?
 
I need to make one as my old one rotted away. I used glued wooden pegs on mine to get rid of the hardware problem. It stayed on my yard so portability wasn't that important.
I am going to do the same soon to make a log bench for my sawmill. Can you post pics of your peg joints?
 
I leave mine running. For the larger rounds, I use my NT steel-handle timber Jack to support or lift to slide a round under the trunk. I would not use a TJ for anything under 8". Recently, I used my loader to lift and support a thirty inch post oak trunk while I was cutting that part close to the ground. These straight smaller sizes I like because they do not require splitting and some of the trees can produce 15-20 feet each of easy wood and I try not to waste it. Stick them in the splitter, if you have one, and go to town after you secure the tongue.
 
I leave mine idling since it doesn't take long to cut. Longer pieces can be balanced on both sides of the beam.

I am not attempting to hijack the thread. I added the idea of my gas splitter to this thread because I thought years ago of purchasing or making a saw buck to help my efforts. Then it dawned on me to use the wedge.
 
I am going to do the same soon to make a log bench for my sawmill. Can you post pics of your peg joints?
It will be awhile since the old one is rotted away.
 
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