Potential poor True North TN20 wood stove insert install.

[Jjames12]

First timer. I look forward to learning and participating in the forum. I also appreciate the time of all contributors.

I wont give you the sob story of how I believe I was mislead on the install of the True North TN20 insert. I've attached pictures to hopefully get some help ensuring my family remains safe, that I can fix it properly if it needs it, and it meets Pierce County, Washington code. I'm not currently using it. I put the black plastic bag under the rain cap to keep any snow or rain out until I can properly secure it.

I've used the stove for two years now. I clean it mid season and at the end of the season using a chimney brush that attaches to my drill. Our furnace broke so I used it as the primary heat source for two years. Once we were able to get a new furnace I've been using it as supplemental heat. With it not running 24/7 I started getting smoke coming from the bottom of the insert out of the air control area until the fire became hot enough. I also noticed it had a significant cold draft coming from the the insert cover into the house. When I took the front cover off I noticed there wasn't any insulation going up. When I took the rain cap off I also noticed the liner wasn't insulated and that there wasn't any insulation up top, along with the cap not being sealed to the chimney which was allowing a significant amount of heat to escape. With not have much experience in this area I tried to get a couple companies out here to look at it but the soonest someone can come out is MAR!

Once again I appreciate any help or ideas to give me piece of mind that I'm not endangering my family or the house.

Thanks,
Jesse

 

[kennyp2339]

As long as the chimney was built to code w/ the proper clearances its looks alright, You may want to remove the liner and insulate it, anchor the termination cap, install a block off plate with fireproof insulation on top to keep the cold from entering the room behind the insert.

 

[begreen]

It's not that bad. Yes, the liner should have been insulated, but that often is not done around here, especially if this was a cost-competitive installation. Adding an insulated block-off plate at the damper area will help a lot. Was the top cap anchored with screws? The top cap should be sealed at the top of the flue with a healthy bead of silicone and screwed snug to the chimney.

 

[John B]

Agree, look fine. Just install a block off plate, or at a minimum just stuff some rockwool in there to prevent the heat from escaping.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

If it was me, I'd want some of that creosote brushed off, but I'm with the other guys, it's not a bad job. I'd insulate it too.

 

[Jjames12]

It's not that bad. Yes, the liner should have been insulated, but that often is not done around here, especially if this was a cost-competitive installation. Adding an insulated block-off plate at the damper area will help a lot. Was the top cap anchored with screws? The top cap should be sealed at the top of the flue with a healthy bead of silicone and screwed snug to the chimney.

I appreciate the replies. I made a block-off plate template out of cardboard. It sits about 9" off the stove. Does it need to go higher? The top cap wasn't anchored. It looks like there was a small bead on the bottom. When I went up there to look at the chimney if felt like a blow dryer coming out from underneath the top cap. I also attached a picture of the inside of the chimney showing some mold and moisture. I'm not sure if that's due the recent snow and rain that we've had or if there's a leak in the chimney.

 

[begreen]

9" is fine. The moisture source should be investigated. It may be failing mortar joints in the chimney.