Pruning young oak

[Soundchasm]

This thread may need to be moved to the Inglenook? I leave it to the mods to decide.

I've got the most wonderful Bur oak that is going great guns. So much so it's almost a problem. I negotiated the low branches for a few years until the odds of collision and breaking them off was too high.

So I pruned in Jan or Feb, taking only two branches in the most danger. Problem solved, right?

Well guess what, the growth and leaf load has made more branches way worse than the ones I pruned. The low points are 2" off the ground.I really don't want to damage the tree accidentally. Two limbs need to go now instead of this winter.

I'm in no danger of approaching the 20% limit I read about. But oak wilt scares me. Did a ton of reading on pruning, wound coat, etc. The most scholarly paper I found indicated that wound dressing is irrelevant. The healing is up to the capacity of each individual tree!

Can anyone successfully talk me out of pruning and sealing two limbs in the near future?

My best guess is that this was a 6'-8' sapling planted in 2014?

Here's the paper I referenced.
Paper

Thanks,
Greg






This is 2017.

 

[Kevin Weis]

You should be able to prune the lower third off with no ill effects. Don't bother with any wound dressing. It will heal itself fine.

 

[brenndatomu]

But oak wilt scares me

It should...that's a nice tree, I wouldn't risk it.
I personally don't see anything there that cant wait until fall...

 

[Soundchasm]

It should...that's a nice tree, I wouldn't risk it.
I personally don't see anything there that cant wait until fall...

Well, the riding mower doesn't fit underneath anymore. I've got knee surgery scheduled in October, but I'm not quite as good at scampering up and down that hill anymore. ;-) So going after it with a pushmower isn't my preferred solution at the present time.

If I know me, I'm still going to try and cut it close going straight down the hill. I'm petrified of a miscalculation and breaking a limb.

I can always steer clear, but there's risk in turning the riding mower going down the hill.

The other consideration is grinding out the stump right next to it. That thing has been a thorn in my side for 17 years. I'm sure it can be done w/o interference, but I'd prefer the grinder operator have few obstacles.

Thanks. I'm really on the fence here.

 

[Soundchasm]

You should be able to prune the lower third off with no ill effects. Don't bother with any wound dressing. It will heal itself fine.

You have no idea how badly I want this to be true.

There was a 225 YO Bur oak on the property line that gave up the ghost a few years ago. I'd like somebody to get as much enjoyment out of this one as I did out of that one.

 

[Soundchasm]

OK, the plot thickens. To summarize an OSU article...

Article

Red/black oaks very susceptible. Can die within weeks.
White oaks more tolerant. Can die within a year.

Can spread overland via beetle. (Nitidulidae)
Can spread underground through root contact. 90% of new infections are from root grafts.

Beetles are attracted to FRESH WOUNDS. "...it is believed that wounds are attractive to Nitidulid beetles only for up to three days".
So wounds would be both pruning and accidents.

"Overland spread can be hindered or interrupted by ensuring that trees are never wounded between April 15 and July 1. This is when most Nitidulid beetles fly to locate fresh sap and/or fungal mats. A more stringent approach is to avoid wounding the trees throughout the growing season (April 15–Oct. 1), since additional summer flights of the beetles are possible. If pruning is absolutely necessary during the growing season, it is imperative to dress the wounds. This can be done with latex paint. Although this will slow wound healing, it will also deter beetles from landing on the wounds."

Frankly, I think I could sit outside with a shotgun for three days... But I shall wait until late summer and paint with latex paint.

 

[sloeffle]

I recently took a class on planting and pruning trees through OSU. They recommend only pruning trees in the months of December - March. The tree should be dormant when you prune it. Most folks prune in early March because the weather is much better.

They also said the wound coat stuff you buy is snake oil. As the others have said, it isn't needed if the tree is pruned correctly.

 

[Corey]

Well, the riding mower doesn't fit underneath anymore. I've got knee surgery scheduled in October, but I'm not quite as good at scampering up and down that hill anymore. ;-) So going after it with a pushmower isn't my preferred solution at the present time. ...

If trees were 'supposed' to be pruned, lopping shears would rain from the sky. Throw a couple bags of wood chips under the tree if you don't like the grass growing there, then leave the branches alone.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I start pruning my oaks like this.. my first cut is at the base of the tree closest to the ground. Then i remove all the limbs. Then cut the trunk imto 18 in rounds, i split the rounds and put all the limbs and splits into the wood shed.. thats the pruning method I use

 

[Soundchasm]

If trees were 'supposed' to be pruned, lopping shears would rain from the sky. Throw a couple bags of wood chips under the tree if you don't like the grass growing there, then leave the branches alone.

That's a storm I'd hate to be caught out in!!

 

[DuaeGuttae]

I recently took a class on planting and pruning trees through OSU. They recommend only pruning trees in the months of December - March. The tree should be dormant when you prune it. Most folks prune in early March because the weather is much better.

They also said the wound coat stuff you buy is snake oil. As the others have said, it isn't needed if the tree is pruned correctly.

I agree about wound paint in general, but I’ve moved fairly recently into an area that is being devastated by oak wilt. The wisdom from the forester and arborist with whom I’ve had extensive conversations is to paint oak wounds as soon as they are made. Don’t go inside and get a drink then come back later to do it. Your paint is part of your pruning arsenal just like your loppers or saw. If possible, avoid pruning at all during beetle flights. (My kids even know a chant from down here: “Oak wilt threat is high from February to July.”) The experts also say that this painting precaution applies only to oak trees in oak wilt zones and to leave everything else to heal on its own.

Our neighbors have a young bur oak. It is a lovely tree, and the acorns are amazing. We had never seen an acorn anywhere close to that size before encountering that tree.

 

[sloeffle]

I agree about wound paint in general, but I’ve moved fairly recently into an area that is being devastated by oak wilt. The wisdom from the forester and arborist with whom I’ve had extensive conversations is to paint oak wounds as soon as they are made.

Good point. I'd do what your local forester says versus a forester x miles away that maybe has never dealt with a problem that you see in your local area.