Quadrafire 2100

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What temps are you running at? How long do you expect a 1.5 cu ft firebox to last especially with pine? Overnight probably won't happen

Not very hot. Once a day I run it up to about 400. Lodgepole lasts overnight easy enough. Well, enough coals to start in the morning.

My biggest hurdle is eliminating the flare up. Its like a fire thats been held at bay and then you go open the door and it starts roaring. Anything else, aside from the window, is good.

I have a Jotul and a Fisher that I can shut down over night, for a slow burn, with no issues. Well, the Jotul isnt the best actually, but is fair. Guess I have the wrong stove for the house.
 
Closing off the air is going to make the stove burn dirtier. The problem is not too much secondary air.
And the glass is gonna be dirtier, I'd think..
 
You cant load a stove and turn the air to low and expect clean glass. Char the wood first then turn down the air.
 
You cant load a stove and turn the air to low and expect clean glass. Char the wood first then turn down the air.
I know that. Not worried about the glass. My point was that after the new gasket, it got worse....while it was burning hot. I was surprised, I figured it would have been cleaner, thinking I had leaks.
 
Where was the air control set when the glass blackened? How close was the wood to the glass?
 
The primary air was all open. Not close, couple inches. It hadnt blackened then but you could see where it was starting. Been a little warm so I am limited some today. If I could, I'd get a solid door. The glass anymore, is nothing but a distraction.
 
The primary air was all open. Not close, couple inches. It hadnt blackened then but you could see where it was starting. Been a little warm so I am limited some today. If I could, I'd get a solid door. The glass anymore, is nothing but a distraction.
I am not sure what you are looking for here. We are trying to help you burn your stove correctly. But you seem to have no interest in learning that.
 
The primary air was all open. Not close, couple inches. It hadnt blackened then but you could see where it was starting. Been a little warm so I am limited some today. If I could, I'd get a solid door. The glass anymore, is nothing but a distraction.
FWIW, our glass stays clear, always. I clean it maybe 3 times in winter to take off a bit of grey haze, but it never blackens. That is a sign that something is wrong unless it's a cat stove. In this case, the cause might have been weak draft due to warm temps outside? I could never run a load for the full burn with the air wide open without overfiring the stove. If you have a cap screen, check to see if it is starting to plug. And if that is ok, check to see if the insulation blanket is bunching up under the flue outlet.
 
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My glass stays really clean this year since my wood has another year under it's belt. It may amber a tad on the very side edges but the next char phase cleans it up pretty good.
 
I dont need to learn how to use a wood stove. I need to learn about this particular stove.
Yes which is why I said we were trying to help you burn your stove correctly.
 
I dont need to learn how to use a wood stove. I need to learn about this particular stove.
Modern stoves do burn quite differently than old, pre-EPA models. I get the feeling that you are trying hard to make this stove into an old stove (cutting out secondary air, no glass). That defeats the purpose and benefits of a modern stove which are cleaner burning, more heat from less wood, a nice fire view and a cleaner stack.
 
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Online and mostly on this very site, all it seems I have read about this stove is its burning very hot. Just looking for someone thats figured out why. Maybe thats the design, hot and fast. Maybe I am too old and used to old style stoves too. Surely it cant be all the stoves fault.

I dont have a big enough house for the heat this puts out if its going to run that hot.
 
If it isnt mid 30's or less, my stove will make it 85 degrees inside on a normal burn.
 
Maybe I am too old and used to old style stoves too. Surely it cant be all the stoves fault.
I suspect I may have a few years on you. Modern stoves are not designed to smolder wood like old-style stoves were capable of. That extra heat for less wood burned is a benefit.
 
I suspect I may have a few years on you. Modern stoves are not designed to smolder wood like old-style stoves were capable of. That extra heat for less wood burned is a benefit.

I am sure you are...LOL. Yes, I am understanding that now. When else can you have cool fresh air and warm heat!
 
Today, after church, I loaded up the stove. Still only 32ish so I opened the windows and let it do its thing. Got it burning well and shut it all down. It performed well, glass is pretty clean too. So, keeping the house at 70, where I want it, is out of the question, without the windows open.
 
When (if) it gets colder there you will like the capacity. Your outside temps would be considered shoulder season and that has it's challenges.
 
Today, after church, I loaded up the stove. Still only 32ish so I opened the windows and let it do its thing. Got it burning well and shut it all down. It performed well, glass is pretty clean too. So, keeping the house at 70, where I want it, is out of the question, without the windows open.
Maybe the issue is moving the heat to the rest of the house. How open is the floorplan?
 
Its pretty open. 24x48, dont really want it going to bedrooms on both ends. Theres always a bedroom window open, sometimes on both ends of the house.
Anything over to 70 to me is scorching, LOL. I hide in the summer months. Thankfully summer is pretty short here. I dont mind windows open in the winter.
I bet I could get by with a Jotul 602, all but over night. Well, that and I couldnt go far from the house for long without having to refill it.