question about block off plate

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C

crater22

Burning Hunk
Nov 23, 2014
179
brookville, indiana
I know this is going to be a stupid question, but here goes. Is there anyway to install/make a block off plate that I can install without moving my insert? When the insert was installed I had no idea of what to watch out for. I remember the installer used a sawzall to cut away the damper in order to put in the liner. After he was done, all he did was stuff regular pink fiber glass insulation above the stove. After being on here and reading I realize I should of had him install a block off plate.

Anyway, I was wanting to make one following some great directions on this forum, but I am a old guy and will have to do this by myself, unless I pay some one. I can make one, but my problem is moving the insert. It is a Buck 91 and weighs in around 640 lbs. I weigh in at a whopping 115 on a good day.

Can one be made that I can assemble with out moving the insert? I can get the surround off with no problem. If not should I just go ahead and remove the pink stuff and use the recommend insulation.?

The reason I think I need one is that masonary hearth gets quite warm to the touch.

Sorry for the long post and silly question, but you never know until you ask.

Thanks much in advance.
 
Call that installer back and have him remove the "pink" flammable insulation, replaced with rock wool insulation.
 
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I'd suspect insulation stuffed up there is just about as good as having a block off plate, but as kenny already said, pink ain't the way to go here. It needs to be something that's UL rated as non-combustible, like Rock Wool.
 
You would have to give some measurements or better yet pictures but if after you remove the surround, you have enough room to work you can stuff rock wool up as high as you can then make a two piece plate so you don't have to remove the liner. It's doable in many cases.
 
As Kenny and Ashful said, get that pink stuff out of there and get yourself some Rockwool.

And yes; you can build a two piece block off plate so long as you have the working room to install it. I just did it myself last week. Cut your plate to size and then cut it in half right where the liner will enter through the plate. Then seal the seem and all other seems with stove cement/high temp sealant.

Check the Wiki on this site. I did mine under the sole advisement of this site and the good folks in here who are glad to help. Type “block off plate” Into the Wiki search and you could read for hours.
 
thanks to everybody for the advice. I will remove the surround and see what I have to work with. If nothing else I will certainly remove the pink stuff. I have a whole roll of safe and sound in the basement.

Thanks again
 
One more quick question guy's. If I have no room to work around installing a block off plate, is it O.K. to stuff the cavity with the Safe and Sound ? Meaning if it rest's on top of the insert.

Thanks again
 
I did mine without moving the insert as a one piece. The liner was just a few inches from the back wall. I just fit it in with a u shaped hole then used some scrap pieces resting across the plate to block the small gap.

With all the Roxul on top of the plate and on the back wall from floor to plate I think it seals pretty good - at least as good as my diy abilities allow. It’s ugly but does the job.

[Hearth.com] question about block off plate
 
Last edited by a moderator:
NoGoodAtScreenNames said:
I did mine without moving the insert as a one piece. The liner was just a few inches from the back wall. I just fit it in with a u shaped hole then used some scrap pieces resting across the plate to block the small gap.

With all the Roxul on top of the plate and on the back wall from floor to plate I think it seals pretty good - at least as good as my diy abilities allow. It’s ugly but does the job.


View attachment 231122


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Click to expand...


I think it looks pretty good, myself. Now mine....is ugly. But i hear ya, metal working I learned is not a “pick it up for fun” type of skill.
 
NoGoodAtScreenNames said:
I did mine without moving the insert as a one piece. The liner was just a few inches from the back wall. I just fit it in with a u shaped hole then used some scrap pieces resting across the plate to block the small gap.

With all the Roxul on top of the plate and on the back wall from floor to plate I think it seals pretty good - at least as good as my diy abilities allow. It’s ugly but does the job.


View attachment 231122


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


What a great idea. Thanks. what did you use for the plate as far as metal ?
 
Thanks. It was galvanized sheet metal from Home Depot. Straight off the shelf stuff so it was fairly light gauge. It was a little wobbly lifting it into place but once it was screwed in it has held up well.

I don’t have any real tools for doing a clean sheet metal job. The light gauge made it easy enough to cut with tin snips. I bought a heavier duty pair for this. If I had to do it again, I would have also got a pair of snips designed to cut a curve. It took a little longer but I made due with what I had. For the flaps, I just clamped it down on the workbench and whacked it with a mallet to bend them down.

I think I got 3 layers of the 3.5” Roxul on top, cutting a tight fit for the liner. Two held themselves up against the brick and I pushed the last one up when positioning the plate. That got me about R-45 on top - better than my attic at the time.


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O.K. guy's one more question. I just removed the surround and I think I have/had a mess. there was not insulation stuffed up the chimney. What insulation that was on the sides and top of the stove were stuffed in there as tight as they could get it. Meaning it was compacted in such a way it was tough getting it out. If it is like insulating a house this lost all its insulating power

Now my problem is, the opening from the top of the insert to the masonary opening is only 5 inches. No way I can secure a piece of sheet metal with screws. Question is, can I support it by placing it on a couple layers of the safe and sound ? Also, I can not insulate behind the stove as it is tight against the wall. Only about 3 inches between the sides and the masonary. In order words a tight fit.

My plan, (unless advised other ways) is to stuff insulation up the chimney as far as I can. Placing a pc or two on top of the sheet metal and then supporting the sheet metal with a layer of insulation or if need be, some firebrick.

What say you?

Also, opp's second question. would this previous set up cause cold air to come down the chimney and cause my fires to die quickly ?

Thanks again for the expert advice given.
 
NoGoodAtScreenNames said:
I don’t have any real tools for doing a clean sheet metal job. The light gauge made it easy enough to cut with tin snips. I bought a heavier duty pair for this. If I had to do it again, I would have also got a pair of snips designed to cut a curve. It took a little longer but I made due with what I had. For the flaps, I just clamped it down on the workbench and whacked it with a mallet to bend them down.
Click to expand...

A good set of Wiss snips (red, green and yellow) makes this work much easier and safer. The red/green snips are essential for cutting a smooth, fishhook free, curve. Put a drop of oil on the cutting edge for easier cuts.
 
crater22 said:
There is one. I took it off to get a look at what I had behind it.
Click to expand...

I assume it’s going to be hard to reach to the back since it’s only a few inches. But maybe you could leave the plate a little long in the front and have the flap bend up into the brick. That’s why I asked about the surround since that would block the view of the plate on the first layer of brick in the front. If you can get some screws in the side even better. In the back maybe you could support it with a couple of bricks. I bet it would stay in place fine if you you have screws on three sides only. I don’t have any screws on the front edge of mine. Seal what you can reach with high temp sealant even if it’s a goopy mess. No one will ever see it.

I don’t know if I’d want the Roxul right on top and filling the void. I’d want some convection going on to pull heat off the stove and send it out the top of the surround - even if it’s just a couple of inches.

I’m no expert, just spitballing here. Get some cardboard and prototype it and see what you can reach with your hands and drill.


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Thanks for the good ideas once again. If you don't mind, I will do some drawing tonight and scan them to see what you think. Really appreciate all the advice and suggestions.
 
crater22 said:
Wow, thanks for that bit of advice....I will contact Buck and double check.
Click to expand...
I dont know how much difference it makes but some manufacturers are concerned about overheating with insulation on the stove.
 
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