Question on baffle installation

[George A]

should the baffle sit all the way against the back wall of the stove or should there be a gap to allow smoke to roll up behind the plate and out the damper ?

Thanks guys

 

[DAKSY]

You didn't say what stove you have, but ALL of the EPA rated. "Clean Burn" models
I have dealt with have the baffle all the way to the rear of the firebox,
and all the way to the SIDES of the firebox.
The only route of escape is close to the front of the stove &
by keeping the gases in the firebox for as long as possible.
they DO NOT allow ANY smoke to exit the stove.
They are designed to burn the smoke BEFORE it pollutes the atmosphere.

 

[George A]

Roger that. i installed the baffle but I'm taking it you are going to have to leave the damper half cocked open because if you slide it all the way back the damper will not shut.
stove is a Fisher insert

steel plate 1/4"
15" long x 20" wide

Thanks

 

[coaly]

?? It should be well below the flue damper.


Set baffle on rear brick retainers, using bricks on ther side you can slide bricks forward and backward to adjust height. Adjustment is critical and should be the same as square inch opening of flue diameter (with insulated flue). Without insulation, lower plate to allow more heat up chimney. You should only need the flue damper for open door burning with screen in place. The damper is your only control in Fireplace Mode.

 

[George A]

Makes sense coaly. So basically cut down the back bricks at a 45* angle. I will say this, with the baffle plate in there and a fan pushing air into the stove, man she puts out some major heat !!

 

[coaly]

No, set the baffle on the brick retainer. The bricks fit up under angle iron to keep them in place.

 

[coaly]

This thread should give you all the info you need;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/
It was written for adding baffles to the single door Bear Series but many have used it for the double doors as well.

Yours should have been made with 5/16 thick plate for your Insert width.

Here is a thread complete with video for your insert;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cant-seem-to-figure-out.119184/

 

[George A]

No, set the baffle on the brick retainer. The bricks fit up under angle iron to keep them in place.

That's what I did, EXCEPT I placed 2 bricks on each side on top of the angle iron then placed then baffles on top of the brick. My thought was to leave excess room in fire box for more wood

 

[Corey]

Yes, you want the baffle tight to the back and sides of the stove. This creates a 'vacuum cleaner' effect and sucks up smoke along the 'slot' left at the front. If you don't seal tight, some air will leak around the back and sides, you won't have a nice strong draft at the front and there is likely to be more smoke spillage into the room.

 

[coaly]

That's what I did, EXCEPT I placed 2 bricks on each side on top of the angle iron then placed then baffles on top of the brick. My thought was to leave excess room in fire box for more wood

Yes, that allows higher wood in the back, but the angle of the baffle plate allows faster velocity leaving firebox which is what you need for starting and to cause enough draft during some weather conditions for enough draft. It also prevents flame impingement which is the flame tips touching the plate which cools them, lowering the burn zone temp and increasing particulate. That later sticks to the side of flue walls creating creosote. The 1/4 inch plate will run hotter than 5/16 but will warp and sag in time where 5/16 stays straight.