questions about new Husqvarna saw

[RustyShackleford]

Just got a new Husqvarna 550XP and a few questions ...

1. It came with a narrow-kerf bar and SP33G chain (which is 0.325" pitch and 0.050" gauge). Just because I have so many old chains from my previous saw (which are also 0.325"/0.050"), is it ok put them (with matching standard-kerf bar) onto the new saw ?

2. They don't really specify the type of bar oil to use. My old saw actually said to use 10W30 motor oil. Seems odd. The bar oil you normally see is way thicker that that. I'm a little confused.

3. The saw came without the bar and chain installed. When I removed the clutch cover, there was the pictured white hard nylon washer around one of the mounting studs; about 15/16" diamater with a 3/8" hole (not a tight fit on the stud). Any idea what this was for ? Just for shipping I guess, but seems like there would've been two.

 

[EbS-P]

1 as long as the thickness of the old bar allows for enough thread engagement I’d guess yes.

2 just buy a gallon of bar oil from whatever shop you frequent. I buy the cheap stuff at Home Depot. It’s tackier than motor oil. In Some logging areas I think you can get a winter weight.

3 im guessing it was there so the cover wouldn’t rattle?

 

[Murray01]

2. I’ve been using Husqvarna “All season” chain oil for above 0C. Reading the label Husqvarna recommends going to a light winter oil below freezing. I don’t normally buy Husqvarna oil because it’s expensive compared to NAPA no name Willy welfare chain oil. Funny Husqvarna recommends a lighter winter oil yet I’ve never seen it on the shelves in the stores that sell Husqvarna chain saws. I have used their “All season” oil at -10C and have had no issues with stiff oil, that being said the saw and oil are stored in a heated garage and once cutting starts I’m guessing the heat from the engine keeps the oil warm enough to flow.

 

[RustyShackleford]

I just have a few quarts of 10W-40 left over from when I decided to switch my car to 10W-30. Maybe I'll use it on the rare occasion I use the saw in extremely cold weather.

 

[RustyShackleford]

UPDATE EDIT: Called Bailey's (from whom I bought it). Tech support guy instantly said "it's a spacer, for transportation, just throw it out". Big upvote for Baileys' here ! I imagine most vendors would've just said you need to talk to a manufacturer or dealer for the saw.


I did a chat with Husq (claims they were human, not AI) on the white washer, they said:

It acts as a spacer and bearing surface between the clutch drum and the crankshaft or clutch hub.
Helps reduce friction and wear by providing a smooth surface for the drum to rotate against.
Ensures proper alignment and spacing of the clutch components inside the clutch cover.

Sometimes, during shipping or initial disassembly, this washer can come off the shaft and fall loose inside the cover.

How to install it:

Remove the clutch drum (the black circular part with the two "fingers").
Place the white nylon washer onto the clutch drum shaft, so it sits flat against the metal shoulder underneath.
Then slide the clutch drum back over the washer so the washer acts as a spacer/bearing surface.
\Finally, reinstall the clutch cover.

I mean WTF ?!? I'm not even sure how to get the clutch drum off - probably requires a special tool. And I need to dis-assemble a brand new saw to replace a part that couldn't possibly have "fallen off". Nor do I see any such piece in the parts diagram (see pic).

 

[EbS-P]

I mean WTF ?!? I'm not even sure how to get the clutch drum off -

so it wasn’t installed??? Rope in the spark plug hole and then I assume the hex bolt can be removed. Left hand thread???

 

[RustyShackleford]

so it wasn’t installed??? Rope in the spark plug hole and then I assume the hex bolt can be removed. Left hand thread???

See edit of previous post. Guy at Bailey's just said it's for transport, throw it out.

I am intriqued by "rope in spark plug hole" though. To lock crankshaft from rotating ? How would that work ?

 

[EbS-P]

To lock crankshaft from rotating ?

Yes.

 

[RustyShackleford]

So it just bunches up and keeps piston from getting to top-dead-center ? Never heard of that. Just need to be careful not to get debris into cylinder (nice clean lint-free rope).

 

[Asmodai650]

Guy at Baileys is absolutely correct.
To remove the clutch you can buy a tool, or make your own from an old socket and some round steel stock.
Search “chainsaw clutch removal tool” and there are several options. Blocking the piston and using a punch to hit the ears is another way to do it.
Also as long as the drive teeth on the chain line up and dont skip on the clutch drum, and the cover closes, you can run a different size / thickness chain.

 

[gthomas785]

So it just bunches up and keeps piston from getting to top-dead-center ? Never heard of that. Just need to be careful not to get debris into cylinder (nice clean lint-free rope).

Yeah I've used the rope trick on a couple engines where I needed to unthread something from the crankshaft. Works great when you don't have another easy way to hold back the crank. The only tricky one was a Briggs L-head because the spark plug hole is not directly above the cylinder. But I got it to feed in after a few attempts.

I agree you should not be having to disassemble a brand new saw. Glad to hear that it's probably just a throwaway part.

 

[salecker]

If you use an impact wrench you don't need the rope in the spark-plug hole.Just leave the spark plug in.
Rope can get into transfer ports and cause you a lot of heart ache if you are not carefull

 

[bigealta]

For bar oil, i've sort of switched to canola oil. It is thin and lubes the bar and chain fine on my stihl 029super. It does however leak when the saw sits so i do dump it out after i'm done with the saw for the day. Yes that is a bit of a pain. That's why i "Sort of" switched.

 

[RustyShackleford]

For bar oil, i've sort of switched to canola oil.

Oh yeah, just recalled this video:

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One commenter does mention it goes rancid fairly quickly, so another reason to dump it out. Although I imagine rancid oil lubes just as well.

 

[EbS-P]

Oh yeah, just recalled this video:

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One commenter does mention it goes rancid fairly quickly, so another reason to dump it out. Although I imagine rancid oil lubes just as well.

Veg oil gets sticky. Only use it if you don’t ever let it sit on or in anything. I’ve used it when milling in a squeeze bottle at the end of the bar. But never in the saw. I don’t want that mess.

 

[bigealta]

I've only gone thru about a few tanks worth but pretty sure i'm sticking with the canola oil. It's fine to either pour it back into a container or just on the ground after you are done for the day. So far no sticky mess problems for me.

I'd rather breath canola oil spray than dino bar oil spray.

 

[salecker]

If you want cheep bar oil go to garage sales and buy any oils they have for sale.
I scrap a lot of vehicles so all the clean oil goes into 5 gallon pails to use as bar oil.
Power steering fluid,ATF, differential fluid. I have about 30 gallons saved for a firewood processor