Questions about Pacific Energy Vista Series C 1995

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Blazzinghot

Feeling the Heat
Dec 5, 2019
290
New Plymouth, Idaho
I just purchased this stove and could not find the manual. It is a 1995 Pacific Energy Vista Series C. I have contacted the company and am still waiting for a reply. I want to make a new handle for this stove door and was wondering if anyone had a similar model and could send a picture of it. The handle is threaded there are threads in the door. The handle that on their now the nut holding the latch hits the stove. I was also wondering if the ash clean out in side the stove was supposed to have a lid on it like some other stoves have? Thanks

Side View .jpg Inside .jpg
 
The stove handle assembly is part WODC.4147
There is an ash dump hatch. In the 2008 Vista C manual it states:

Optional ash cleanout system: The ash dump handle is located under the ash lip on the left hand side. To operate ash dump, pull handle out 1/2" and turn clockwise. This will unlock the ash dump and allow it to open. Hold handle open while pulling ashes into the hole. Avoid large charcoal pieces as these still contain heat value. Release handle and push in to lock. Ensure ash dump door is properly engaged. Fill the cavity with the remaining ash level with the firebox floor. Lift and pull out ashpan and discard ashes into metal container. Replace ashpan and ensure it is seated properly. Do not burn with ash dump door open. Doing so will create a hazardous condition.
 
Thanks for the reply begree. No cap on top because of the flapper on the bottom which is a much nicer system. I like the large ash pan on this stove. Which sheen of black paint paint do you picture on this stove?:) I already have the window with gasket ordered.
 
It will need the rust cleaned up. Steel wool should work, go from a coarse grade to fine. Wipe down with alcohol. Then, a good painting with Stove Brite satin black and polishing of the door will make it look like new.
 
I sanded it and sanded some more and then wire brushed and then took the stove outside and used a real good rust remover and hosed it all down. I took all the panels off and painted both sides. This time I used flat black 1200 degree paint. I purchased a polishing kit some time back for the glass window on my Brass Flame wood stove and it works great on brass. I polished the brass door on my Country Striker using this kit and it is like new. I wanted to use satin black paint but none to be found at any of the stores I went to in Boise. I will post the results when it is finished. I have been reading about the baffle system on the Pacific Energy wood stoves and they have a different system using stainless steel with insulation. They don't seem to have an many secondary air holes as you see on most wood stoves with tubes which I don't understand. It could be they are aiming at higher temps with less secondary air.

The old baffle was made of metal and was all rusted inside creating flakes blocking the secondary air holes. So I made a new system with stainless steel air tubes. I have some ceramic board and insulation but still want to get some stainless steel for over the top of the secondary burners. The stove looks like it has the original bricks which are not cracked or broken so I am thinking this stove had been sitting for some time as the metal inside the stove is not in bad condition.
 
I am in the process of doing the same with a PE Super insert. I used Stove Brite satin much happier with that than rustoleum. Also be carefully with the door those are gold plated. Don't sand or use steel wool on it I am cleaning my with a soft damp rag.
I would like to hear how the tubes work in this stove. I am switching from a tube stove to baffle hoping to get a slower burn.
 
John26, Great to hear about your project. Is there any info about these baffles having a slower burn time than secondary burn tubes? I new the newer baffles might fit in these older stoves but I did not discover this until I made my secondary burn system. Plus they cost almost $300.00 for a new baffle. I find that sanding works for me when I get pitted stoves. It does not take out all the pits but makes it look much nicer. I wonder is this has to do with personal preference as the stoves I have sanded have turned out looking fairly decent. Or it could be that those who use steel wool have never have had a badly rusted pitted wood stove. Some of the stoves I get have been sitting outside and are not new by any means. I will send pictures of my stove and secondary burn tubes set up after I get done. I would like to see some pictures of your project?

I already polished the door and did not notice any blending of colors. It does not appear that this 95 version of the stove is gold plated. The door looks great with a few deep scratches that are not noticeable. I will be putting this stove back together today but still need need to make a handle for it.

Does anyone know what size door gasket this stove takes. It does not have much of a groove for a gasket so hard to tell the size.
 
I am not sure if the baffles burn slower or not. I also have a Napoleon with a secondary manifold that runs front to rear and baffles on top I am very impressed with the burn on this stove hoping the PE is similar. I used emery cloth to knock the rust off then wipe with Lacquer thinner. I have few small pits I just painted over them.
 
I am in the process of doing the same with a PE Super insert. I used Stove Brite satin much happier with that than rustoleum. Also be carefully with the door those are gold plated. Don't sand or use steel wool on it I am cleaning my with a soft damp rag.
I would like to hear how the tubes work in this stove. I am switching from a tube stove to baffle hoping to get a slower burn.
Member @Dix has a version of this insert. It's a good heater. Instead of the conventional insulation board on top of a tube secondary system, PE designed a novel, combination baffle/secondary air system constructed out of stainless. It's simple, rugged, and gets the job done.
 
What @begreen said. Love my PE.

Throws heat for 9+ hours on a full load. It's a work horse.
 
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