RE-DISCOVERING WOOD HEAT Quad 3100

[Tom Posch]

I just got my new (a 2001 Quadrfire 310 step top) installed. I heated with wood for 10 years (1982-1992). I bought a thermometer and placed it 18" up from the stove top. I never had a thermometer before so I am watching it and trying to stay within the recommended range of 275* to 575*. My problem is, if I keep the stack temp up enough to stay in the recommended range, the stove/house is too hot. If I set the temp of the stove/house where I want it, the stack temp is lower than the range they call optimal. Is 275* the lower limit on stack temp? I am in central NJ, and the temp outside is not very cold the past few days, so that is aggravating the situation.

I used a Fisher Mama Bear for all my years of woodheating and never had a problem with creosote or any thing else. I never had a thermometer so I have no idea what the real numbers should be.

I've been a visitor on this site for a while. You are a civil, helpful, friendly group, and I appreciate any help you can provide.

Tom

 

[LLigetfa]

While the Fisher was a good stove in its time, it doesn't compare with the efficiency of your new stove. Less efficient = more heat goes up the flue. More efficient = less heat goes up the flue. The temp 18 inches up the flue is only a guideline and overall chimney performance and creosote production depends on other factors.

 

[Todd]

Those stove pipe thermometers were mostly designed for the older stoves like your previous Fisher. Your newer Quad will run lower stack temps than that fisher because it's more efficient. Your stove top could be cruising at 500-600 while the pipe could be reading 250-300. If your pipe temps are up around 400-500 your wasting heat up your chimney. I like to monitor both temps just to see whats going on. If you go outside and there is no smoke from your chimney your burning clean.

 

[begreen]

The 3100 is a high-efficiency stove, but it won't smolder like the old Fisher did. That is probably the most polluting phase for a stove and it's been engineered out of modern heaters. On milder days, burn shorter fires and let it go out if the house is too warm. On cold days, when the temps get below 20, you will see this stove really perform.

Also note, the stack temps, while important for keeping creosote accumulation down, don't necessarily track with the stove top temps at all stages of the burn. During strong secondary burning, the stove top temps will go up while the flue temps often decline. That is the higher efficiency burning giving you more heat into the house and less up the flue.

 

[Tom Posch]

I mill about the yard and see little/no smoke, unless I'm re-fueling. I bought the stove used and got no info or owners manual with it. Could I get that type of info from another member that has the same stove? This baby has two air-draft controls. The center one I can see what it does, it works like my old Fisher did. The one toward the right, I can't tell which way is which.

I have lurked and then posted on other sites only to be ignored. I can only guess that was because I wasn't in the clique. Your quick, and heplful responses are greatly appreciated.


Tom

 

[fossil]

...I have lurked and then posted on other sites only to be ignored...

That happens to me here all the time. %-P Welcome, Tom! Sounds like you're figuring it out. It's a good stove, but performs differently than your old one. You might get a second thermo & put it on the stovetop, then watch how they both behave during a few good burn cycles. Rick

 

[dkf5]

you can also get manuals on-line. I have an old Shenadoah and found my manual on-line. I also bought my stove used back in the early 90's and quit using maybe in 2000 and this year we put it back in. It was like I'd never used one before. We really did some tweeking. Bought a new bi-metal thermostat and found that the manual one was better for us. It took some time consuming research to locate the company that still builds this stove. It was bought by another company. I also bought a new seal for the door while I was at it. I have only run the furnace maybe 3 times this season. I live in Upsate NY so some cold weather. I also work and am not home to feed it all day so with the cost of fuel I am glad we put it back in.

 

[begreen]

Tom, I'm wondering if you are trying to run the stove with the startup air control inadvertently left open? If so, that will make it run too hot. If this is an ACT model, one control is for primary air and the other is for start-up air. The primary should be in the center bottom of the stove. The start-up air control should be on the right. Start the stove with both controls open. The close the start-up air after 5-15 minutes. Don't run the stove continuously with the start up air control open.

Hopefully tmonter or jtp will catch this thread soon. The current model and online manual is for the ACC unit. I suspect that yours is an ACT model. You can locate the manual for older stoves on Quadrafire's website. Look in the Customer Care area and select your stove model from the pop-down list of woodstoves. (broken link removed to http://www.quadrafire.com/Customer_Care/Installation_Manuals.asp). Download the 3100 ACT manual and see if this is your stove.

 

[LLigetfa]

(broken link removed to http://www.quadrafire.com/Customer_Care/Installation_Manuals.asp)

 

[begreen]

thank L. silly little .asp . I fixed up the error.

 

[Tom Posch]

I went to Quadrafire's website and found that the current model and mine are not the same. I followed the link you put up for me and chased my tail for awhile (probably my fault) only found a dealer locator. But you say the air control on the right is just for start-up? I think it helps when I add wood to open them both ( by the way open is in, right?) If there are other gentlemen here that know this stove, I'd like some advice from them.

Tom

 

[begreen]

OK, it sounds like your's is the 3100 steptop ACT model. Here is the exact link for the manual
(broken link removed to http://www.quadrafire.com/downloads/installManuals/man_3100act.pdf)

Yes, to open, push rod in. To close, pull rod out.

 

[Tom Posch]

That link was the one. I will print the manual. Thank You very much, you have all been very helpful. I have a much better handle on this new stove now. I know it's a better stove than my old Fisher, but I have nothing but fond memories of her. The Fisher took a much longer log, I miss that. But that's progress. I am glad to hear all of you endorse my new steed.

Thanks to all.

Tom

 

[granpajohn]

Yes, to open, push rod in. To close, pull rod out.

To help my wife remember, I tell her that it's like the right (accelerator) pedal on the car...In to go...Out to stop.
It works.