Recommendations for Chimney Installation, Westchester, NY

[Sarad]

I just put a deposit on my first wood burning stove - Woodstock Progress Hybrid.

I need a recommendation for an installer in lower Westchester, NY. I would like it installed as a free standing stove with the chimney through the wall.

Also, it will be sitting on a stone tiled floor which is on a slab. Do I need something under it?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Dune]

Welcome Sarad.
Call a few chimney sweeps to get install quotes and or stove shops.

 

[Sarad]

Thanks for answering. Woodstock recommended that too, but I was hoping for a personal recommendation. I am very nervous about picking a contractor from a list.

 

[Sarad]

No Westchester members know a Chimney Sweep they can recommend?

Did I say please help a newbie?

 

[HollowHill]

Sorry I can't give a personal recommendation. What I did was go to the Chimney Sweep's Institue (CSIA) and get a list of those with certification in my area. When that turned up no one, I then went with those that have Chimney Sweep certification in my area. Maybe when you call these installers, you could ask for recommendations from previous customers? Good luck.

 

[Dune]

Another thing you can do is check for complaints with the better business bureau and your state's division of consumer affairs.

 

[katwillny]

Thanks for answering. Woodstock recommended that too, but I was hoping for a personal recommendation. I am very nervous about picking a contractor from a list.

Just sent you a Private Message.

 

[Sarad]

Thank you Hollow Hill and Dune.

Since this is my first stove, I 'm sure I will have other questions. I'm glad I found this site. There is a wealth of info here.

I hope I am not in over my head with a cat as a first stove.

 

[Sarad]

Katwill,

Thanks for the heads up on the PM. I replied.

 

[Wade A.]

Welcome Sarad....I'm a long way from your necka', but I'd just generally offer up these suggestions.....

1. Get a copy of the owner's manual for your particular stove, make/model. In it, you'll find the manufacturer's requirements for installation. Most importantly, you'll find the requirements for clearance distances from combustible surfaces. Even if you are hiring this work out, you should read that as many times as it takes to become knowledgeable....not only for the installation, but for the operation especially

2. Consider alternatives to going out a wall, which will require two 90 degree turns in your flue. Venting hot gasses works best with a straight shot. How your Class A chimney pipe runs will determine how well the stove will draft....a crucial factor in performance.

3. You will get much more accurate feedback if you can post photos and/or diagrams with the measurements you are working with, as well a more complete description of the room and whatever is directly above the installation site.

 

[Flatbedford]

Welcome Sarad,
Where down county are you? I am just outside Croton on Hudson.
I have been happy with Mad Hatter Chimney Sweep 23 Round Tree Ln Montrose, NY 10548
(914) 736-0173

We have used them since 2003. I don't know if they do installs, but a recommendation from them should be a good one.

 

[Sarad]

I am in White Plains.

Thanks, I will call them.

 

[Sarad]

Thanks for your help, Ploughboy.

I read enough to understand that 'out the wall' was not ideal, but I am not sure I have other options. How bad are the turns in a hybrid stove such as this one? Do they ever do 40 degree angles on chimneys? That may be possible in the room.

The stove is going on the ground floor of a split level house. It will be sitting in a room built right on the slab which is always cold. Above that room is a bathroom and next door are the two bedrooms. It is a 2500 square foot house and drafty. The flue is in the middle of the house and does not exist on the level the stove is going because it is a split. I wanted the stove on the ground level because it is so drafty and heat goes up.

 

[Wade A.]

Glad to offer what I can.

The problem with exiting the wall at an angle other than 90 degrees is the texit hole will be elliptical, not round..... That presents problems for the pass-through thimble. I'm not even sure they are made, but that is easily researched if you want to do it. But, my bet is that you'd only get a small increase in performance over a 90 degree elbow.

About your options though....don't overlook the idea of framing chimney pipe chase up through one of the rooms above. Class A chimney needs only 2" of clearance from combustible surfaces, so the size of that is not going to be huge. If you have a closet, or other out of the way path to send your chimney through, you might consider it as a good trade off. Think also about the minimum height of your chimney for adequate performance of your stove.....in your manual you'll see what the manufacturer recommends, and how high that will take it above the roof exit point. Too much exposed chimney and you'll have to install bracing on the room as well....not too attractive. Running it up through the second story and out will minimize the need for that.....the roof sheathing/flashing will be providing the bracing. Exiting through the roof is always going to look "cleaner", in my opinion. That, and your draft will be better than the side exit method.

Another point to consider is that putting your stove on the lower level expecting to appreciably heat the upstairs is likely to result in dissapointment. Sure, heat rises, but lots of heat is trapped by your ceiling, and LOTS of heat is going be be sucked out into the surrounding foundation walls and slab. (That slab is cold for a reason!) Many here have tried this, with somewhat mixed results. If you spend most of your time on the ground floor, I guess this makes sense. If you don't, I'd say that you might consider putting it upstairs, using the existing masonry hearth.

Good luck man, let us know how it goes.

 

[Sarad]

In these diagrams of the stove, it looks like the chimney has to make a turn anyway. Or am I misunderstanding the diagram?

(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/chimney-house-diagrams)

 

[Wade A.]

That could very well be...I'm not familiar with the stove and couldn't tell you if there is a top exit option for it. Some stoves (most?) have the ability to flip the connector entry port to allow for a direct vertical exit. My Jotul has that feature, and I did it. You can check with Woodstock and they could tell you. Too, as I said, you REALLY need to get your hands on a copy of the stove manual...that is your "bible" for this project, whether you hire it done, or go d.i.y.

But, assumng that the rear exit is your only option, it is not as likely to hamper your stove performance like a bend further up. The gases exiting directly from the stove are super heated, at a temp not too different than the actual firebox temps. Up the connector though, they will begin to cool and it is there where you don't want to put in any hindrance to it rising fast and exhausting out of your cap. Don't think though that any bend in the pipe will be likely to crash your stove performance....lots of folks have that exact configuration with no ill effects. You won't know until you get it fired up...but then it will be too late to change your mind. That is why I just say that you might want to consider a straight shot. When you do locate a professional installer to consult with, I would definitely explore that option with him/her.

 

[bluedogz]

Sarad- I had the same questions when it came time to redo my chimney... I wound up getting bids from 3 local contractors (some recommended, some not) and then asking here about what they told me. Took all of like 3 posts to filter out the bullpucky and drop the price of the job by over 50%.

Much of that savings was due to doing the job myself, which I'm not recommending for you. All I'm saying is that your homework will be easier if you get a couple bids first. That way, if only one guy says you need a flux capacitor, you can weed him out fast.

 

[tomWright]

The folks I bought my Jotul from did a good job. Not sure if they install stoves they did not sell, but they do go to Westchester on occasion. McNamara in Pearl River. Not the cheapest, but in this area nothing is. When dealing with fire I prefer good work to cheap.

They did want to do a complete cleaning and inspection before running my chimney liner, which I thought was reasonable. I am not sure how they would work out the installation of an outside chimney. At least they will probably want to inspect the location to make sure you have the needed clearances to windows etc.

Worth a phone call.

 

[Sarad]

I finally got my Progress installed and I'm loving it. Thanks for the help.

 

[madison]

I finally got my Progress installed and I'm loving it. Thanks for the help.

Pictures? We love pictures. Congrats

Comments on the installation process?

 

[Sarad]

The installation went smoothly when they finally got the stove into place which took three large men an hour on the ground floor.

At the end of the installation, the guy who designed the chimney started the fire. When the pipe heated up a bit he spray painted parts to match the black pipe. He used nothing to shield my walls or the stone stove top. In the process, as I was yelling "stop," he got some black paint on the stone. Most of it came off but there is a slight discoloration. I am still upset.

As to the function, I have a sub optimal situation. I have an external chimney with a 90 degree angle and it goes up many feet up the side of my house. I have had a lot of trouble establishing the fire. I don't know if it is because I am brand new to this or my draw is terrible, or both. I have had smoked filled rooms while getting started. Having said all this, I LOVE the stove and the heat is soft.

My wood is 2.5 year old oak from a huge tree that came down on my property. But it was not split till now.

I will post pictures as soon as I can figure out how.

 

[Flatbedford]

That Oak is gonna need some time to burn well. Maybe next year. You can try some fine steel wool to clean the soapstone. I know that Woodstock says that in my Fireview book. I don't recall the grit that they recommend, but it is the very fine one. I have had good results cleaning rust stains form the steamer with steel wool.

 

[begreen]

Bummer about the idiot with the paint. Get some 000 or 0000 steel wool and buff the top with it. Any spatters should come right off.

Bring several armloads of wood inside. The splits will dry out quicker indoors. However, I suspect it's not only the wood, it's the outside temps. It was balmy yesterday in White Plains. The stove should be burning a bit better today and even better tonight when temps get in the 30's. This is why I am a strong advocate of straight up, in the house installations. They usually draft much better in mild weather. How tall is the outside pipe?

 

[ddddddden]

"Let me just touch this up for you, Sir. . .Doh!" :cheese: Yeah, should buff out fine though. Re the wood, oak is notoriouly slow in drying. Dennis will be along shortly with all the details. It probably won't even be fully ready for next season, if it was just split recently. Good seasoned wood is hard to find for purchase. . .maybe buy some Bio Bricks, Eco Bricks, etc. Also probably wouldn't hurt to re-split your oak smaller. Try a Fiskars X25, X27, or a small $250 electric splitter if you don't already have a splitter and don't want to dive in with $1k or more. Nice stove, BTW.

 

[Michael Dollar]

Katwill,

Thanks for the heads up on the PM. I replied.

Sarad,
Who did you use in Westchester?
We are in Northern Westchester- not too far from White Plains.
Thanks.