Red oak at 23-25%, burn or not?

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Sconnie Burner

Feeling the Heat
Aug 23, 2014
488
Western Wi
These are measurements using the multi meter method and the Chart on the pinned thread above. I have some oak stacked under my deck since this spring (OK breeze, no sun, top covered with a tarp). Most are 23-25%, A couple splits measure 26+%. As a first year burner I realize now that it wasn't the best spot for it. But being limited on space that's where it went.

I have an EPA stove (quadra-fire 3100), will I be alright with it or should I move it once I get to it? I have a few rows of confirmed dry stuff in front of it. And 2 rows of dry behind as well, hence wondering if I should just move it. I will get to it about January. Will that make a difference or not? I assume it will quit drying once it freezes.

I do have a Natural Gas furnace as well. Not sure how much it costs for a month as I moved into the house in March. Should I just bite the bullet and use that once my dry wood is gone or should I burn the oak as it was FREE. (except for my labor and a little gas to haul and split it).

A few questions I'm looking for answers/opinions on:
1) Will it actually create that much more creosote vs. 20% or lower wood?
2) Will the cooler dryer autum/winter air help it dry out more by say January even w/out sun?
3) Can I just burn it a little hotter a bit longer on a fresh reload to dissipate the moisture?
4) Or just mix it with the dryer stuff and go with it?

Sorry for all the questions but just looking for the best option/opinion!
 
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If that is all you have burn it! Just clean your chimney at least twice during the season. Heat and wind is what dries wood. Autumn will good be as great as summer while it is still better than winter. You will have to burn hotter to get the moisture out. For sure mixing drier stuff will make average moisture per load more reasonable.
 
If you know you have good dry stuff behind it, I say use that first. Burning wet wood is a waste of money because you don't get the full heating potential from a given split
 
If you know you have good dry stuff behind it, I say use that first. Burning wet wood is a waste of money because you don't get the full heating potential from a given split[/quote]

However, it is still cheaper than using natural gas.

OP - I burned 25% red oak last year because that is what I had. Looks like I will be burning 23% to 24% white oak this year. It has been in the racks two years, but just not quite down to 20%. However, that is what I will burn after I go through 3 cords of mixed poplar, cherry, and maple that is seasoned pretty good. Last winter was so harsh that it ate into some of this year's wood. So, being 3 years ahead is great, so long as you don't burn any of next year's wood. Granted, being 3 years ahead is still better than having cut and split this year's wood last month. The white oak I have in reserve for this winter was 39% when I split it two years ago. The locust I split last weekend was 39% and 40%.

Then, there is my buddy that is still trying to get this year's wood cut, split, and stacked, and he is going to be "burning" stuff that is in the 30+% range. Thing is, it was free versus having to pay for oil.
 
I think that wood should be fine to burn. If you're really worried, mix it with drier stuff and burn a bit hotter. I would let it dry from now until January or whenever you need it, that would be 4 more months or so to dry. I will probably burn some red oak with a similar moisture content this winter.
 
It will burn fine. And it doesn't stop drying the first day you light the stove. It will continue to dry until you use it.

But my prediction is that NG is gonna be cheap this season so using some of it isn't gonna hurt too bad either.
 
Sorry for the repeat if your following my other post. I picked up a moisture meter and confirmed my oak was at 25%+ under the deck. BUT the good news is my suspected oak too wet for this year pile was actually drier at 20-21% so a simple switch out will save me! I'm STOKED to say the least!
 
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