Regency ci2600, how to better?

[WoodSmokeMoonshine]

Greetings all! I'm am in the middle of reading the ever popular "Advice/Review need: regency ci2600 fireplace insert risky & costly" thread. Being that it is 35+ pages long it's a lot of info/review to take in all at once.

Here's my story: Had a ci2600 installed 3 days ago. The installer notified me that the custom backing plate that I needed was not ready but could install anyway, to allow me to heat during this impending blizzard (I live in NE Maryland). So stove was installed sans backing plate and come to find out sans flue cap, it won't be coming in till next week. (Attached are pics of stove and jimmy rig flue "to get me along till final parts come in").



My question is this: is it kosher to install/run the stove with out a backing plate? Kosher to install/run with a jimmy rigged flue with no cap? Even temporarily? This snow/wind/blizzard apocalypse has me worried. Should the installer just have leveled with me and said sorry the parts didn't come in time to properly install?

I ask this because the stove is not adaquetly heating my home (main floor rancher, roughly 1200 sq ft). Thermometer exactly 16 feet away on kitchen island reads 62 degrees, never been higher. Stove fan on high and feels hot coming out (avg 200 degree via inferred thermometer). House thermostat is not more than 30 feet from stove and won't get above 56 degrees. Electric heat pump running all the time. Is my house really that inefficient/drafty? Built in 78.

Wood being burned is seasoned 1+ year oak, cherry, Osage orange. My good friend is burning the same supply with no problems (not same stove).

Any advice, tips, tricks, information is greatly appreciated!

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Lookup installing a block off plate on this site.
I have a regency Hampton hi300 similar stove and I can get a 1200 square foot first floor up to mid 70's

Maybe too much heat is going up the flue

 

[bholler]

Any advice, tips, tricks, information is greatly appreciated!

Well a few things are yes it is perfectly safe to run with the surround the way it is. I would not have done the install with out a top plate though. Why didn't he just cut a temporary one out os sheet metal if he didn't have one? Next some of your wood may not be dry enough do you have a moisture meter? Can you run through your burn procedure for us? How do you load? Where is the air when you load? What temp do you close the bypass at? Does the cat stay active after you close the bypass? how do you adjust the air after closing that bypass? And is the liner insulated?

I have a regency Hampton hi300 similar stove

They are totally different stoves yours is a tube stove his is a hybrid with a cat.

 

[WoodSmokeMoonshine]

I do not have a moisture meter but I plan on getting one whenever I dig out from this storm (snow drifts are well over 4 feet...). Liner is not insulated. Not getting a fuzzy feeling from my installer. He also neglected to plug and cement the existing pipe in the chimney that my old propane line ran through, even though it clearly stated this on sales contract. I have since plugged this pipe from the outside to block cold air and will surely remind him when he returns to finish the work.

Burn procedure is as follows: after my first initial fire I had on day one and after each subsequent burn cycle I make sure to allow the coals to almost burn out completely but still have enough to get my next wood pack started (I've read form many of you that adding extra wood too soon will create excessive coal buildup that wont burn down to ash). When it's ready for new wood. I open up both the damper and the bypass, and slowly open the door. I rake what little remaining coals I have and form a small valley from front to back in the middle to allow better air flow. I load my splits e/w and can typically fit about 5-6 good size pieces and use small pieces to fill any other available area. I then leave the door cracked and allow the wood to catch, about 10-15 minutes. I then close the door and continue burning with damper and bypass open until my cat probe reading hits 600, typically takes around 30 minutes to reach 600. I then close the bypass and continue burning with damper open. I'm guessing the cat is staying active after bypass is closed as I can watch the probe reading jump up to 900-1100 degrees. Once i known the fire is well on its way I incrementally close the damper until I reach that sweet spot. When the cycle is nearing the end and I'm left with coals I'll rake them out, open bypass and damper, and squeez as much heat out from them that I can before repeating the process.

After researching block off plates, I am definitely thinking this may be my main problem. I have a large size flu 18"x18". Between not having a block off plate and no real flu cap I am loosing the majority of my heat out my chimney. And I can definitely feel cold air drafts in my house that are replacing the air going up the chimney. Probably the reason why my thermostat says 56... Does this sound logical?

Thanks again for everyone help, I am very grateful and glad I found this forum!

 

[bholler]

After researching block off plates, I am definitely thinking this may be my main problem. I have a large size flu 18"x18". Between not having a block off plate and no real flu cap I am loosing the majority of my heat out my chimney. And I can definitely feel cold air drafts in my house that are replacing the air going up the chimney. Probably the reason why my thermostat says 56... Does this sound logical?

Yeah that would cause a problem for sure. And the liner should really be insulated for safety and performance. It is needed more for performance on a cat stove because the exhaust temps are much lower.

 

[begreen]

I'd want to protect that liner insulation from wind driven moisture. A temp top cap out of sheet metal would have worked. In lieu of that at least put a plastic bag over it and tape in place.

 

[WoodSmokeMoonshine]

Unfortunately that's not the liner insulation, it's just some loose insulation he used to somewhat close up the flue.

I let the stove complete its last cycle and it is almost cooled down completely. Actually feels warmer in the house now that all that heat isn't going up the chimney and pulling cold draft air into the house.

I unfortunately will need to push some insane snow drifts off of my roof for fear of all its added weight. When I get up there I will cover the flue with something a little more suited.