Remodel Prefab Help

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mikeybigb

New Member
Sep 26, 2015
2
Norfolk, VA
I had a prefab insert that was used for supplemental when the heat pump couldn't keep up. It did a decent job with a fan near by, but I want something a little more efficient on wood & heat. I ripped out the prefab box to see what I have to work with. I've called a local fireplace co to come give me an estimate on an install, but I wanted to check here and get recommendations.

I've been looking at these inserts: Drolet 1800 / Osburn 1600 / Napoleon 1402 / Regency 2400
And am open to any other suggestions.

From reading clearance guidelines it looks like I'll need to create at min a 4" non combustible pad to place the insert on. Currently there is a slate hearth, but inside the opening has a plywood floor. Does that seem correct or is there some better way to get one of these in my existing opening?

I've attached pics of what the opening looks like now. The stainless 8" pipe goes through another larger pipe to make a double wall setup.

Opening is 42" wide, 25" deep, and 33" from existing slate hearth to top of opening, slate hearth is 24" into the room and 16" to each side.

Thanks for the help -Mike
[Hearth.com] Remodel Prefab Help [Hearth.com] Remodel Prefab Help [Hearth.com] Remodel Prefab Help
 
Welcome to the forum!

I am sorry to disappoint you but your current plan will not work. The inserts you are looking at can only be installed in a masonry fireplace built according to your local building code. It is not safe to install them in a wall cavity like what you have there. You have essentially three options:

Install a freestanding stove in an alcove: Raise the ceiling of your opening, built a non-combustible hearth, finish the walls and place a low-clearance stove in the alcove. Your problem will be the short width you have. The Jotul F45 with wall shields may work. You could also look at the F50 and F55 models if you want a larger firebox but not sure if those will fit. You will also need to change the pipe to double-wall and class A above the ceiling as yours is unlikely to be approved for a high-temp application.

Install a high-efficient EPA-approved ZC fireplace: Those are like the inserts you are looking at but designed to be installed with close clearances to combustibles. Flame Monaco, KozyHeat Z42, Pacific Energy FP30 would be some units to look at but there are plenty more. Again, the pipe likely needs to be changed. Here is a thread of a member who did that change: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ncy-zc-wood-burning-fireplace-project.114875/

Put a rear-vented stove in front of the opening, run proper class A up the chase and connect it to the stove through a thimble. Not sure if that is the look you are envisioning but wanted to mention it.
 
Thanks for the post back and answers. I actually found the thread you posted an hour or so ago and read through it all. If I went with a build out similar to his do I just need to check mfg specs for clearances or do you still have to find a unit that is specifically rated ZC? Obviously I'm a rookie, but have been trying to read and research as much as possible to weigh out trying to diy or make sure I'm not getting ripped by the fireplace co if they do the build out/install.
 
It's a good thing you stopped in here! You were just about to burn your house down! The inserts you were looking at will be just about as hot as a freestanding stove on the surface. And that flue can't handle the kind of heat a stove can put up the flue.
This might be a good one to leave to the pros, even if you think they are expensive...
 
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