I finally broke down and replaced the gasket on the door of the old Dovre Aurora today, now it is so super tight I had to really force the door closed! I did it the same way that I did it years ago, used the same thick gasket that I had from years ago so it has to be the correct one, did it right on the door like last time, applied firm but gentle pressure while putting it on, loosened the door hinge so it is as loose as can be thinking I'd start loose and tighten it up but when I went to close it it didn't close, had a gap of about 3" away from the door latch! I cannot figure this out, I did it just like last time, yet this time it is so so tight, I left it closed thinking maybe it will flatten the thick gasket out overnight but I am not happy keeping it closed with that much pressure, if you see something else I am missing please fill me in!!
Replaced door gasket on stove now I can barely close the door!
- Thread starter PA. Woodsman
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
The best that I could. The side that is hitting first of course is the hinge side and that all was down to bare metal. I pushed the gasket in the best that I could, same way that I did last time I changed it.
I'm not crazy about leaving it closed being so tight, but do you think if I did that would compress it and be better? Not crazy about that pressure on the latch bushing though....
What type of gasket adhesive did you use? I screwed up once long ago using the portland type and got to much in there and had the same problem...now I use the high temp black or red Permatex RTV silicone stuff....I used red last time and it has held up very well
There is no bushing on my door so but I got a little heavy handed on the black RTV and it was tight but compressed its self eventually with out issue
Meecos Red Devil, it's in a squeeze tube. I put a good amount on but it was pretty tough to squeeze out of the tube. Not sure if that would be enough extra to cause this issue or not. But I must say the old gasket in the spots that are hitting first when trying to close were flat as a pancake, I hope this is the correct sized gasket? It's supposed to be 3'4" for this stove, I looked on line for an old manual and that's what it said., and it looks like the old gasket that came off. Very strange....
I can tell you that not all gaskets are created equal! Year before last I got the "same" size gasket from a local shop who said it was a direct replacement...NOT
There are different densities and I believe this is what happened to you!
There are different densities and I believe this is what happened to you!It HAS to be something like this, I can't figure anything else out? Now of course I have to wait until Saturday to take a piece of it to the stove shop and see what they say about it and see what they have, and do it again....I can tell you that not all gaskets are created equal! Year before last I got the "same" size gasket from a local shop who said it was a direct replacement...NOT
I just opened the door and put something in front of it to keep it pretty much closed, keeping it under that pressure was no good!!
Thank you...... Ugh.....
I found a manual for your stove and a gasket kit part no. 18589 but couldnt find the kit..is your stove company still in business?
No they were sold out years ago, bounced around and are now part of Quadra Fire, but they only used some of their designs. But they are still being made over in Europe, similar but different.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Yeah I'd say it was, I had so many pieces of gasket put on that I tried to fill in some "gaps" that it threw the whole draft and seal thing way out of whack, I could see the orange flames when the door was closed on the left side so that told me "this isn't working anymore".Was it broke?
This gasket like Tar12 said has to be too big, that is the only logical explanation that it doesn't close. It was a section that was given to me years ago by the stove shop where the stove came from, maybe it was thicker in density even though it does measure 3/4", I don't know now.....I did it the same way I did it years ago and it was tight then but it closed, this doesn't close it is so tight, I even was dreaming about it last night as this is on my mind big time now. Tomorrow I'll make some calls to the local stove shops and hopefully get someone that knows what they are talking about, get some more gasket hopefully the right size, tear this one out, clean the track and reglue it and put the new one in, and if that still doesn't close I'll flip out!!
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
I was kidding w/ you based on your comments in the other thread.
I'm waiting for the day I have to replace mine. Not sure how much length to use since the rope gasket will get thin if stretched and fatten up if you scrunch it. If it's not a door adjustment maybe that's the issue.
Last edited:
xman23
Minister of Fire
There are the basic diameters. I guess the denser materials won't compress as well. I haven't paid much attention to that, just use standard graphite. It's so easy to stretch or bunch the rope, which may be the issue.
If you know the diameter it should be, what did you use.
If you know the diameter it should be, what did you use.
fire_man
Minister of Fire
I had a door/gasket closing issue with the Progress. I stretched it when I layed it in the channel and the door did not close. Laying it loosely made it more compressible and the door closed fine.
I used 3/4" which is what is the recommended size. I pushed it into place while the wife held the gasket giving me slack, didn't bunch it up or stretch it and smush it to make it flat, just kept putting it on and pushing it on with both thumbs as I went along, just like I did last time years ago. And it won't close by about 4" so I would think that would have to be bunched up something fierce to have that much opening in the door?
I knew you were kidding based on that lol!
I put it on smoothly like I did last time, just pushed it into place with my thumbs while the wife gave me slack and held the rope, didn't bunch it up except maybe a slight bit at the corners which I heard to do but not much, didn't stretch the heck out of it either as that would affect the seal. I'm stumped on this one, did it the same way I did it years ago, didn't take the door off to do it but I didn't last time either and feel it isn't necessary plus that also is a pain in the ass to do on this stove!
I just watched a Youtube video and this guy said to "dry fit" the gasket in place first, tape it in with tape if needed so you can see if the door closes or not, if it doesn't close stretch it out more and dry fit it again, then TRY to stretch it the same when you glue it in. He showed that if it is too tight it won't close at the hinge side and that is where I am having my issue, so maybe that is the problem? I would just be afraid of stretching it TOO much and not having the proper seal?
I think what I'll do is take the gasket out that I just put in, try to see if I can still "dry seal" it so I can see if I stretch it out a bit mostly on the hinge side where it is not closing would work; this guy says you can stretch it to make it fit while others say and I read don't stretch it, but unless it is a fatter thickness than the last gasket I used years ago I guess I will have to experiment with it and see if stretching it out especially in that area solves the problem. And if not I'll buy another gasket, talk to them about different densities if they even know about that, dry fit the new one and see if it will close at the length I stretched it to and glue it and hope for the best.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Sounds like its a bit of trial and error. I've read there are differences in gasket. Were/are you able to get gasket from Dovre?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The difference in 3/4" low, medium, and high density gasket material is huge...use the wrong one and you won't be happy, no matter how much you futz with it...especially if you jumped 2 densities (like low to high)
Last edited:
Yes, not only are there different densities, but there are also differences in construction. I found this out by trial and error. The differences between generic Rutland, Meeco, etc. gaskets and the OEM gasket for the Alderlea are quite significant. Only the OEM gasket has worked well for me on our stove. In cross-section it looks more like a gasket within a gasket. With a different density core than the exterior.
Thanks for the replies all.....Dovre went out of business many years ago in the USA, they were first bought out by Heatilator then Quadri Fire and I can see some of their designs incorporated into their stoves. They are still in business over in Europe, but I'm sure they are different than what I got in 1993.
Okay, so there is variances in the gasket densities, so how on Earth do I figure out which one is best for me? This gasket is white braided very thick material, I had it for quite awhile just sitting downstairs, given to me from the stove shop where the stove came from, by the owner who sold it out later and passed away about 3 years ago; if he was still around I could get some answers I'm sure, but no one knows anything about Dovre stoves so I am kind of flying blind here.
How would you determine what thickness of 3/4" gasket would you use, and what kind? And what if these local stove shops don't have difference in thickness and only have the size I have, what then? And based on the fact that this one is too thick to close the door and the description of it above do you think this one is "high" density? Knowing that I could at least eliminate that size....
Okay, so there is variances in the gasket densities, so how on Earth do I figure out which one is best for me? This gasket is white braided very thick material, I had it for quite awhile just sitting downstairs, given to me from the stove shop where the stove came from, by the owner who sold it out later and passed away about 3 years ago; if he was still around I could get some answers I'm sure, but no one knows anything about Dovre stoves so I am kind of flying blind here.
How would you determine what thickness of 3/4" gasket would you use, and what kind? And what if these local stove shops don't have difference in thickness and only have the size I have, what then? And based on the fact that this one is too thick to close the door and the description of it above do you think this one is "high" density? Knowing that I could at least eliminate that size....
Last edited:
Similar threads
