replacing door and window gaskets, how best to handle corners ?

[RustyShackleford]

Heeding the exhortations of our cult leader, aka. @BKVP to pay attention to the door and window gaskets:

Air leaking around the door gasket is room temperature. When that room air, say 75F hits the surface of combustor, which might be well over 1,000F, the result is thermal shock to both substrate and wash coat (which binds precious metals to substrate).

... and noting the deterioration of the window gasket from the last time an unfortunate bird fell down my chimney (before I installed a screened flue cap), and that the door gasket fails the dollar-bill test on the hinge side (where tightening the latch won't help), I'm replacing both gaskets.

So I wonder how to handle the corners:

1. Cut the gasket into 4 pieces making butt joints at the corners ?
2. Cut the gasket into 4 pieces making miter joints at the corners ?
3. Keep the gasket in one piece and make little triangular "relief" cuts at the corners ?
4. Keep the gasket in one piece and just fudge the corners ?

I imagine the correct answer might be different for the two gaskets.

 

[Highbeam]

Heeding the exhortations of our cult leader, aka. @BKVP to pay attention to the door and window gaskets:

Air leaking around the door gasket is room temperature. When that room air, say 75F hits the surface of combustor, which might be well over 1,000F, the result is thermal shock to both substrate and wash coat (which binds precious metals to substrate).

... and noting the deterioration of the window gasket from the last time an unfortunate bird fell down my chimney (before I installed a screened flue cap), and that the door gasket fails the dollar-bill test on the hinge side (where tightening the latch won't help), I'm replacing both gaskets.

So I wonder how to handle the corners:

1. Cut the gasket into 4 pieces making butt joints at the corners ?
2. Cut the gasket into 4 pieces making miter joints at the corners ?
3. Keep the gasket in one piece and make little triangular "relief" cuts at the corners ?
4. Keep the gasket in one piece and just fudge the corners ?

I imagine the correct answer might be different for the two gaskets.

Factory does it with one piece right?

 

[begreen]

#4 for the door.
Are the door glass corners radiused? If so, #4 there too.

 

[RustyShackleford]

#4 seems to work, except it's a bear re-installing the metal pieces that hold the glass to the inside of the door !

 

[Dieselhead]

Don’t stretch the gasket out while installing, it’s easy to do if not aware. keep it the diameter it came out of the bag. I bedded mine in high temp red RTV silicone.

 

[Highbeam]

#4 seems to work, except it's a bear re-installing the metal pieces that hold the glass to the inside of the door !

Is that because the door glass gasket is bunching up in the corners? That would make it harder to push the glass retainers down far enough to engage the studs with nuts. I had a chunk of weld slag under one of my glass retainers from the factory.

You got BK oem gaskets right?

 

[Murray01]

https://www.blazeking.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/180-PE32-v3.01.pdf

The link is for their latest edition, if your stove is older than the procedure might be different but I doubt it.

 

[RustyShackleford]

You got BK oem gaskets right?

I think so. Unless this seriously mis-represented ...

Blaze King Wood Stove Door Gasket (7/8" X 8') Part: 155.0186

Replacement Blaze King Wood Stove Door Gasket (7/8" X 8'). Part Number: 155.0186. Fits The Following Models: KE, PE, PI, RGT, SC, AF, BX, CK) and more. Stove & Grill Parts For Less Offers A Large Selection Of In Stock, Ready To Ship, Blaze King Wood Stove Parts. Included Warranty & Technical...

pellet-stove-parts-4less.com

The link is for their latest edition, if your stove is older than the procedure might be different but I doubt it.

Thanks, I've got it. Forgot it had so much info on maintenance. Nice going BK !

Interesting they say to use "high-temp silicon" (instead of Rutland Stove & Gasket cement). The ones I see seem to be good to 500-600 degreesF; seems like it gets hotter at the door. Is there a favorite product ?

 

[RustyShackleford]

Starting to wonder if the parts I just bought at this site:

Blaze King Princess PE1006 Wood Stove Repair & Replacement Parts

Quality & Affordable Replacement Service Parts To Repair The Blaze King Princess PE1006 PE1006Wood Stove. We Carry A Large Selection Of In Stock Ready To Ship Parts, Accessories, and Addons Including Igniters, Venting, Motors, Controllers, & More. Free Shipping For Most Orders Over $199!

pellet-stove-parts-4less.com

... are legitimately "Blaze King", as they clearly represent them to be. I had an old scrap of window gasket, and it was thinner in the middle, whereas the new one was uniform thickness; that could explain why it was so hard to get the retainer pieces back on. And I had an old scrap of 7/8" gasket and it was much denser than what I just bought (as Chris says the OEM one is).

If that's the case, I'm pretty p/o'ed.

 

[Murray01]

Here’s OEM, purchased about 18 months ago.

 

[RustyShackleford]

@Murray01 thanks, but I can't tell from pic - is the window gasket thinner in the middle, or uniform thickness ? If so, that would be a dead giveaway I didn't get OEM.

Where'd you buy from ?

 

[begreen]

Window gasket is usually a uniform thickness. The package should have the BK part number on it and their logo.

For RTV, I have used Permatex Red on the door gasket and it has stood up well. I will be replacing it soon and will be curious about how eay it is to remove and clean the gasket channel. I think Highbeam used their copper RTV. Don't use the blue, it sets up like rock.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Window gasket is usually a uniform thickness. The package should have the BK part number on it and their logo.

None of the parts I got from that site were in a BK-branded bag. Ima have a word with 'em Monday. I asked because I have an old scrap that looks like this:

For RTV, I have used Permatex Red on the door gasket and it has stood up well. I will be replacing it soon and will be curious about how eay it is to remove and clean the gasket channel. I think Highbeam used their copper RTV. Don't use the blue, it sets up like rock.

I bought the "copper" that @Highbeam rec'd in his great post about R&R'ing the door gasket: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/blaze-king-door-gasket-replacement.152827/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

[Murray01]

@Murray01 thanks, but I can't tell from pic - is the window gasket thinner in the middle, or uniform thickness ? If so, that would be a dead giveaway I didn't get OEM.

Where'd you buy from ?

Uniform thickness, 5mm thick with brown paper on the back sticky side stamped 3M. Purchased at a small town brick and mortar hardware store. They don’t stock OEM door or window gaskets, special order. If memory serves it was about $65 for gaskets compared to their off the shelf gaskets that would have been around $40. Comparing the OEM and off the shelf window gasket the OEM gasket is way stiffer than the flimsy off the shelf gasket.

Same can be said with the door gasket, considerably stiffer than off the shelf stuff.