Replacing Handle

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Applesister

Minister of Fire
Dec 5, 2012
2,483
Upstate NY
I am very interested in trying my hand at replacing a handle on some various hand tools. I found a farm supply store that stocks a full range of replacement handles.
Im curious if this task is actually harder than it looks.
Also testing to see if I can post a pic here.
 

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It can be frustrating. I would get the fiberglass handle for the sledge/maul.
 
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I think others can give better advice than me; I have only done a few, but never had one fall off.

It is good to have good quality wood handles. I haven't had luck with Fleet Farm or Menards handles they seem to break to easy, but the ones at Ace Hardware have been good. Get the old one off, put the new one on. Hit the handle on the ground with the head on the top to set tight, hammer in the shims that come with the handle, cut off flush if needed. Our guys at work swear by soaking the head in water to swell the wood also. They are pounding concrete form pins all day.

I did a fiberglass handle on my 6 lb maul a few years ago and it has done very well. Wasn't that hard. Clean metal and set the new handle, mix and pour in the epoxy making sure the handle is centered and let it set for a day. I am kind of sold on the fiberglass as it lasts way longer and holds up to the occasional bad hit on the handle.
 
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I havent come across the fiberglass deals but Ive watched a few youtube videos and it looks like fun to try but Im thinking the first time I use them the heads are gonna go flying.
 
The Coconutlike sound of her head? I'll try with the smallest hammer first.
If they are loose, is the soaking in water trick really advisable? A few of the hammers shared the same space as the woodstove and I should have left them in a barn or garage. The house was too dry.
 
My BIL was telling me something about Henry Ford the other week. That he had factories in Germany during WW II. Like he was spilling the beans on some kind of military intelligence or something. Dunno. I think the trick is to find hickory handles with straight grain. Quartersawn.
 
I've heard about soaking in water. I've even heard about soaking in used motor oil. I've never done either, if you shim it right it should be fine from the start. I replaced my first handle when I was 10 and found an old ax in the woods and begged my dad to buy me a handle so I could fix it. By now just about all of my tools are fiberglass, but it's hard to beat the feel of a wood handle.
 
A couple of things:
First - a wood handle has a different feel during the strike than others (fiber or steel). This is a preference to many.

Second - Can only relate what I was taught, but my father (who hand split many cords growing up) always used linseed oil IF a soak was needed.

Third - don't be surprised if a handle needs to be "fitted" to the head. I actually prefer when it does as it assures me a might tight fit even before the wood and steel wedges go in.

Fourth - and this is just a personal thing - but when I cut the extra part of the handle that will likely protrude from the top of the head once the handle is fitted properly, I leave just an 1/8th inch or so extra. Then I burnish the wood with a grinder. It kind of gives it a "closed cell" finish that I have my mind convinced actually makes a difference.
 
I am very interested in trying my hand at replacing a handle on some various hand tools. I found a farm supply store that stocks a full range of replacement handles.
Im curious if this task is actually harder than it looks.
Also testing to see if I can post a pic here.

I have done quite a few heads lately, all seem to be doing well. I like Link handles, seem to be good quality. Get the old handle out, and see if the head fits on the new one. Sand/whittle to fit. Fit the head as "low" on the handle as you can, then cut off the excess. In the slot that is in the handle, hammer in the wooden wedge that came with the handle. Then take a metal wedge and hammer that in perpendicular to the wooden one. This will expand the wood as much as possible in both directions.

I like to have the handles dry if I can when I start so they will only expand and get tighter, not loosen up. When I had a good handle, but it was loose, I would keep the tool in a bucket of water. Kept the handle tight, but would eventually shrink again.

Best of luck!
 
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Yep, soaking expands wood but like Clarkbug wrote it just shrinks again if it's allowed to dry out. Worse, the wood doesn't stop expanding when the handle is tight in the head; it tries to keep on expanding, which crushes some of the wood fibers. Then when the handle dries and shrinks the crushed fibers do not rebound to their original size, and the handle ends up even looser than it was to begin with.
 
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