Requesting input on choosing new stove

[1870farmhouse]

So I currently have a Lopi Sheffield in a 1870 wooden farmhouse 1160 square feet around 580sf per floor which has no insulation. Last winter the Sheffield heated the living room to around 70 and the living room to around 60ish. The heat upstairs was in the mid 50’s.
My Sheffield has no blower.

My friend in a similar old house but 50% bigger around 1750sf with 820sf 1st floor and she has a Pacific energy Alderlea T5 with blower and that entire house is cozy warm and they never turn on any additional heat.

So my budget is around $5500. PLEASE help me pick.

I would prefer a non-cat freestanding wood stove that has rear vent that has availability for blower and fresh air intake.
I can feel the cold air coming inside the house from outside rushing to feed the fire so I believe the air intake will help with that and I’m guessing the blower is why my friend’s home that is larger by far and warm all around.

My own research has taken me to osburn 2000, jotul f500, hearthstone craftsbury or shelburne

I understand some of these only have top vent but just giving ideas f what I’ve been looking at and I’m not totally against a cat but from what I read they can have issues.

I would like 8-10 hour burn times for overnight and while away for work. I have dry 2 season hardwood steady now and just installed a new stainless steel insulated chimney liner.

 

[begreen]

The Craftsbury is too small and kind of light duty. Note that new Hearthstones are now all hybrids now with a cat and secondary tubes. Consider Pacific Energy T5 or the PE Super, which is the same inside as the Alderlea T5. Both will deliver 8-12 hr burns. The advantage of the PE is that it can load N/S so that it can be filled without worrying about wood rolling up against the glass. You get a fuller load N/S. The Osburn 2000 is a good stove though it will require shorter 15" splits if desiring regular N/S loading. The F500 is primarily an E/W loader .

 

[1870farmhouse]

The Craftsbury is too small and kind of light duty. Note that new Hearthstones are now all hybrids now with a cat and secondary tubes. Consider Pacific Energy T5 or the PE Super, which is the same inside as the Alderlea T5. Both will deliver 8-12 hr burns. The advantage of the PE is that it can load N/S so that it can be filled without worrying about wood rolling up against the glass. You get a fuller load N/S. The Osburn 2000 is a good stove though it will require shorter 15" splits if desiring regular N/S loading. The F500 is primarily an E/W loader .

What are your thoughts on blowers and are they as effective of spreading heat as it seems?

What, in your mind, are the best 2-3 stoves with rear vent around or under the $5000 mark?

 

[begreen]

A good blower setup does help convection. Unfortunately, the choices for rear vented stoves are getting more limited. I have seen some Jotul F45s for sale. That would be my first choice for rear-vented in this case, if you can find one. Call around to all the area dealers to see if they have any remaining.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I’d work on insulation. Running a stove when the heat is racing to get out of the house is a lot of work

 

[1870farmhouse]

I’d work on insulation. Running a stove when the heat is racing to get out of the house is a lot of work

I’m sure you are volunteering to pay the $17,000 insulation bill right?
No offense but this is a stove group and I asked for advice about stoves not your armchair suggestion on insulation.

My house is plaster interior walls and German clapboard meaning only blown-in rockwool is my choice as similar houses that got insulated in the 50’s/70’s with fiberglass got mold because it got wet and stayed wet.
This design is purposely creating voids in the wall to allow air movement.
In the summer I can see why as the house doesn’t hold heat like solid walls would and in winter they had 2-3 stoves going.

Last winter when the temps were low 30’s the stove kept the living room just at 70 and the kitchen no and living room around 53.
And upstairs around 67 as heat rose by the staircase.

I do have propane forced hot air but I’d really wish to never have to use it as I work professionally where I can get many hardwood scraps from woodworking and my township doesn’t allow burning and my area has many hardwood trees so the township has a stick/tree dump I can easily get free hardwood rounds to split into fire wood no questions and I own a log splitter.
Oak, ash, poplar, and walnut and most popular I get.

Actually I’m thinking of just doing an insert and forgoing the freestanding stove aesthetic I don’t know.
Maybe function outweighs form this time

 

[1870farmhouse]

A good blower setup does help convection. Unfortunately, the choices in rear vented stoves are getting more limited. I have seen some Jotul F45s for sale. That would be my first choice for rear-vented in this case, if you can find one. Call around to all the area dealers to see if they have any remaining.

What are your thoughts on freestanding vs insert?
Are inserts more efficient or get more for the money?
Looks that inserts are cheaper?

 

[begreen]

A freestanding stove will deliver more heat into the room most of the time. It has more radiant surface exposure.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

I’m sure you are volunteering to pay the $17,000 insulation bill right?
No offense but this is a stove group and I asked for advice about stoves not your armchair suggestion on insulation.

My house is plaster interior walls and German clapboard meaning only blown-in rockwool is my choice as similar houses that got insulated in the 50’s/70’s with fiberglass got mold because it got wet and stayed wet.
This design is purposely creating voids in the wall to allow air movement.
In the summer I can see why as the house doesn’t hold heat like solid walls would and in winter they had 2-3 stoves going.

Last winter when the temps were low 30’s the stove kept the living room just at 70 and the kitchen no and living room around 53.
And upstairs around 67 as heat rose by the staircase.

I do have propane forced hot air but I’d really wish to never have to use it as I work professionally where I can get many hardwood scraps from woodworking and my township doesn’t allow burning and my area has many hardwood trees so the township has a stick/tree dump I can easily get free hardwood rounds to split into fire wood no questions and I own a log splitter.
Oak, ash, poplar, and walnut and most popular I get.

Actually I’m thinking of just doing an insert and forgoing the freestanding stove aesthetic I don’t know.
Maybe function outweighs form this time

You just received free input attempting to help you. You can do with it whatever you please. You might try a simple thank you or maybe say nothing next time would even work. Basic decency.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I’m sure you are volunteering to pay the $17,000 insulation bill right?
No offense but this is a stove group and I asked for advice about stoves not your armchair suggestion on insulation.

My house is plaster interior walls and German clapboard meaning only blown-in rockwool is my choice as similar houses that got insulated in the 50’s/70’s with fiberglass got mold because it got wet and stayed wet.
This design is purposely creating voids in the wall to allow air movement.
In the summer I can see why as the house doesn’t hold heat like solid walls would and in winter they had 2-3 stoves going.

Last winter when the temps were low 30’s the stove kept the living room just at 70 and the kitchen no and living room around 53.
And upstairs around 67 as heat rose by the staircase.

I do have propane forced hot air but I’d really wish to never have to use it as I work professionally where I can get many hardwood scraps from woodworking and my township doesn’t allow burning and my area has many hardwood trees so the township has a stick/tree dump I can easily get free hardwood rounds to split into fire wood no questions and I own a log splitter.
Oak, ash, poplar, and walnut and most popular I get.

Actually I’m thinking of just doing an insert and forgoing the freestanding stove aesthetic I don’t know.
Maybe function outweighs form this time

This is a heating group. You’ll find forums here on wood, gas, and electric heating. You’ll even find threads on passive solar.

Insulation is relevant regardless of the fuel that you choose to use.

That said, it’s your house and your choice to take any advice given. It’s worth what you paid for it.

My advice is far more than armchair. My business has done a good amount of insulation work over the years. I recommend it for a reason. I’ve been running wood stoves for years also. I recommend insulation for a reason.

 

[EbS-P]

Get the biggest cheapest (fully installed) SBI product (Drolet, new englander ect) and put the savings towards insulation or a mini split???

 

[1870farmhouse]

You just received free input attempting to help you. You can do with it whatever you please. You might try a simple thank you or maybe say nothing next time would even work. Basic decency.

Or you could not offer “input” not asked for maybe?

next time how about advising I just buy a whole different or new house instead of my current one?
Gee, I never thought to insulate my house what a novel idea.

Your input better be free as it’s quite worthless FYI.

Are you the guy who offers advice that the sky is blue or water is wet?

You think I owe you a thank you?
You have some issues for sure.

If you read my post you’d know that my current 20 year old small/medium stove without a blower kind of did the job and that I’m finally ready to pull the trigger on a new stove with the technology and blower which would get me to where I want to be. And you offer adding insulation. It’s just hilarious how ridiculous that advice truly is.

Next time follow your own advice and just say nothing.

 

[begreen]

Let's tone it down, a lot. The advice given was with helpful intent. An angry response is not necessary. It helps no one. Closing thread.