Resolute Vintage 1979

[atstuart]

Hi-
Just picked up a RESOLUTE built in 1979 in amazing shape. We are having trouble finding the adapter for our flue collar to pipe. The collar on ours is out the back and is oval, not 6" round. Is there an online source for this? OR can I upgrade to a later model flue collar? Thanks.

 

[dougand3]

Welcome, atstuart. Here is an adapter for VC.
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Black-Stove-Pipe/Oval-to-Round-Adapter
Check if your flue collar can removed, rotated and reinstalled exiting vertically.

 

[atstuart]

Yes- the plates are reversible to make it a top mount- which is better. I just have to get the allen bolts to loosen- might be a lost cause.... The oval is 6 1/2" x 4 1/2".

 

[dougand3]

Use a bunch of PBlaster Rust Eater over a day or 2. May allow bolts to break free.

 

[crazy_dan]

worst case bolts is cheap.

 

[begreen]

Hi-
Just picked up a RESOLUTE built in 1979 in amazing shape. We are having trouble finding the adapter for our flue collar to pipe. The collar on ours is out the back and is oval, not 6" round. Is there an online source for this? OR can I upgrade to a later model flue collar? Thanks.

Nice find, and welcome.

Congratulations. I love the original Resolute. Clean it out very thoroughly. If you have an air compressor, blow out the air passages completely with an air nozzle (wear mask). Then enjoy and post some shots of it once installed.

 

[atstuart]

Thanks for all the advice so far!

 

[Carbon_Base]

I just installed a pre-Acclaim Resolute in my kitchen a couple weeks ago. I spent half a day drilling out one of the bolts to turn the exit collar up instead of back, but it was worth it.

As for the oval outlet. A standard 6" round will fit into the oval collar perfectly with only slight compression. Also, the screws will draw it even further into shape.

(I bought an oval-to-round section and it ended up going to waste because the standard pipe actually fit better.)

It's a fantastic stove, although very dirty burning. Careful of the quick build-up in your chimney.

_____

EDIT to add:

I was surprised I was able to get 5 of the 6 allen-head stove bolts holding the exit collar free. I hit them with WD40 once a day for about 4 days. When it came time to try turning them, I heated the area around them with a plumber's torch.

I found standard single allen wrenches were not up to the job---I even tried adding leverage to them with a box-ended wrench. Finally, I bought an allen driver to fit on my 3/8" drive socket wrench. This set-up was hardy enough to deliver the torque and grip adequate to free 5 of the bolts.

As I said earlier, I ended up drilling out the sixth. I tried an easy-out first, but that wasn't going to do it. I eventually drilled a small hole clear through the bolt, then went at it with increasingly larger drill bits until there I was able to pull what was left of it out with channel lock pliers. (After drilling the bolt head off the with a bit just larger than the screw shank).

The bolts thread right into the stove---they don't have nuts on the inside. You can get at the backs if you remove the griddle top and drop the damper flap back. You might have to wire brush to see them. I'd recommend taking the time though. I did not discover this until I was nearly done. If I had to do it again, I would have sprayed penetrating oil in this inside of each bolt too.

 

[atstuart]

Thank you Carbon Base- very informative and helpful- really appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes....

 

[begreen]

I'm surprised to hear the problems with dirty burning. The stove may not be clean by modern standards, but wasn't bad. Ours kept the flue pretty clean and if I recall, there was not too much smoke once the stove was warmed up and bypass engaged.

Maybe check to confirm the secondary passage isn't plugged? Also, be sure the secondary hole flap is open.

 

[greythorn3]

if you want the best rust busting liquid, get yourself some acetone and some ATF and mix it 50/50... i used to use PBBLASTER and thought it was gods gift to rust.. bust the ace/atf mix is just amazing! and if that dont work, then heat the bolt up with a torch and then stick a candle on the threads and it will wick in that wax and make it easy as pie to remove.. if neither of these 2 methods work.. yoru gonna have to brake or cut the bolt or drill it out..

Ray

 

[fire_man]

I'm surprised to hear the problems with dirty burning. The stove may not be clean by modern standards, but wasn't bad. Ours kept the flue pretty clean and if I recall, there was not too much smoke once the stove was warmed up and bypass engaged.

Maybe check to confirm the secondary passage isn't plugged? Also, be sure the secondary hole flap is open.

I had a 1979 Resolute - I had to clean the flue after every chord of seasoned wood. One year the 6 inch SS liner got so clogged with creosote I almost could not get the brush down it.The wood was seasoned (split) a full year. With the newer Fireview I ony get a light powder of coating on the liner, and that's after 3-4 chords of burning. The problem for me is probably that its an external chimney (uninsulated liner) that did not work well with the pre-EPA Resolute.

 

[csterry9]

HI I ONCE OWNED AN '80s VIGILANT WHICH HAD A SCREEN FOR FIRE VIEWING. I RECENTLY PURCHASED A TWO-DOOR RESOLUTE FROM MID '80s AND IT DIDN'T COME WITH A VIEWING SCREEN. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHETHER THIS STOVE CAN BE USED IN THIS WAY? I JUST ASSUMED THEY ALL DID BUT I CAN'T FIND ANYTHING ON-LINE TO INDICATE WHETHER OR NOT THE RESOLUTE CAN BE USED WITH A SCREEN.

GREAT SITE AND THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
CRAIG STERRY
HINGHAM, MONTANA

 

[fire_man]

My '79 Resolute came with a viewing screen - its the one thing I really miss with the FIREVIEW. I wonder if EBAY could help you find one?