Rookie wanting info.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Johnson89

New Member
Jan 9, 2017
2
Tennessee
Hello, any information on this stove would be great just wanting to know exactly what we have. We recently bought a house and this wood stove was in the basement. Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9314.JPG
    IMG_9314.JPG
    104.1 KB · Views: 301
With no 76 in the star on right door it's an early 1977 Grandpa.
Grandma never had the larger style Fir Trees and is smaller.
The first post in this thread describes the double door stoves and gives a quick history of their invention;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fisher-grandma-and-grandpa-bear-details-fireplace-series.69448/

76 GM Indiana.jpg This is a '76 Grandma. The trees never matched Grandpa. After the original doors with stars that have round door seal rods instead of channel iron door seal, all doors were cast with the smaller trees that also use flat channel iron door seal.

Later Grandpa from late '77 to '79 with the more common tree design;

Grandpa comparison.jpg
 
Notice your right door handle is a touch lower than the left when latched. Someone was leaning on it when closing to tighten too much and the latch rod is starting to bend when hot. If you don't over tighten latch, it will stay the same. Looks like the spring on the left needs to be screwed on a few turns farther, and right spring needs to be unscrewed so it's not as far down the handle. Do this with a rag to prevent marring on the handle's LAST COIL down the handle and rotate to thread spring OFF the handle until the same as left side. Attaching pliers to last coil allows spring to open as it is turned and should easily unscrew to adjust. To install farther, simply turn spring with hand and coil opens to allow spring to be screwed on farther. Don't force or bend out of shape! These springs are stainless, and very rare to find replacements, unlike the later plated spring coils made today.
Keep the hinges and draft cap threads greased and the stove will last your lifetime plus......

This is the manual to use with your stove;
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/Fisher_Manual.pdf
 
Notice your right door handle is a touch lower than the left when latched. Someone was leaning on it when closing to tighten too much and the latch rod is starting to bend when hot. If you don't over tighten latch, it will stay the same. Looks like the spring on the left needs to be screwed on a few turns farther, and right spring needs to be unscrewed so it's not as far down the handle. Do this with a rag to prevent marring on the handle's LAST COIL down the handle and rotate to thread spring OFF the handle until the same as left side. Attaching pliers to last coil allows spring to open as it is turned and should easily unscrew to adjust. To install farther, simply turn spring with hand and coil opens to allow spring to be screwed on farther. Don't force or bend out of shape! These springs are stainless, and very rare to find replacements, unlike the later plated spring coils made today.
Keep the hinges and draft cap threads greased and the stove will last your lifetime plus......

This is the manual to use with your stove;
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/Fisher_Manual.pdf



Thank you very much for all your info! Do you have any tips for restoration?