Running without a baffle

[gyrfalcon]

OK, so I was reading the thread on this forum about baffles, and decided to educate myself and have a good look at mine. Looked like it was out of place, which might explain why I've had some difficulty getting the temp up above 350 in the last couple of days.

You can probably figure out the rest. I poked it gently, and it instantly broke apart and fell into the firebox.

It's Sunday, so can't even call the stove shop to see if they might possibly have one there until tomorrow.

Is it dangerous to run the stove without a baffle? It's a tiny firebox and a fairly cool-running stove anyway, so although I don't have a flu probe, I doubt there'd be an outrageous temperature going up the flu without it, but I don't know that.

Advice hugely appreciated. (I do have oil heat back-up, but the tank is getting low so would sure love to be able to use the stove for some heat to help out until I can get a replacement baffle.)

 

[begreen]

That's a bummer, though it does help explain the anemic temps. I'd try and fashion a temporary baffle. Otherwise the heat is just heading straight up the flue. If it is getting the flue pipe consistently over rating, that would be bad.

I'd be tempted to cut a piece of steel 12.5" x 5.675" and slip it in above the burn tubes to serve as a temporary baffle. The thicker the steel the better (within reason). If stainless steel is available that would be good. Keep an eye on it and watch for warping. Stop burning, and remove if warped.

 

[gyrfalcon]

That's a bummer, though it does help explain the anemic temps. I'd try and fashion a temporary baffle. Otherwise the heat is just heading straight up the flue. If it is getting the flue pipe consistently over rating, that would be bad.

I'd be tempted to cut a piece of steel 12.5" x 5.675" and slip it in above the burn tubes to serve as a temporary baffle. The thicker the steel the better (within reason). If stainless steel, all the better. Keep an eye on it and watch for warping and stop burning, and remove if warped.

Thanks, BeGreen. Unfortunately, I have neither a steel sheet nor tools for cutting it.

(FYI, as a very small soapstone stove, 400 to max 450 is about where it cruises anyway.)

I can't remember what the flue is rated for, but it is a fairly new (put in 5 yrs ago) stand-alone insulated high-quality SS pipe, with double-wall flue from stove to where it goes out through the wall just below the ceiling.

Looking carefully at the pieces that fell into the firebox, I see that a good 3/4 of it is intact-- though obviously fragile. I can't experiment with it until the fire dies down, but would it be worth the trouble to let the stove cool completly and then put that piece back up so there's only about 1/4 of the space that's open?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I'd put what you can back up. A spare firebrick or 2 might help also.

 

[BrotherBart]

Were it me I would go to Home Depot and get a sheet of 1/2" Hardibacker, the one without mesh in it, and cut a piece for temporary service until you can get the right board from the dealer.

(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100170507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=hardybacker&storeId=10051#product_description)

A member tried it and last I heard it was still OK after a month of burning. No personal experience with it.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Maybe get some firebrick like the one that line fireboxes and use them, maybe?

 

[begreen]

Were it me I would go to Home Depot and get a sheet of 1/2" Hardibacker, the one without mesh in it, and cut a piece for temporary service until you can get the right board from the dealer.

(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100170507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=hardybacker&storeId=10051#product_description)

A member tried it and last I heard it was still OK after a month of burning. No personal experience with it.

Not a bad idea. I would think that even with the fiberglass mesh Durock could work if no Hardibacker is available. Durock Next Gen would have some insulative value as well.

My concern with firebrick is that it might be too thick and restrict flue gases. At 9" long it would also leave a 3.5" gap in front.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Yep, what the modes said..

 

[velvetfoot]

That was me and it was the totally unreinforced stuff you use for its r value under a hearth, which I've totally forgotten the name. It'd be interesting how long something else of a generic, ie cheap, nature would last.

 

[gyrfalcon]

I'd put what you can back up. A spare firebrick or 2 might help also.

Thanks. I just did put it back up, so there's now only a couple inches on either side that are open. Probably less heat going up there than there was with the whole thing tilted up as it apparently has been for several days.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Were it me I would go to Home Depot and get a sheet of 1/2" Hardibacker, the one without mesh in it, and cut a piece for temporary service until you can get the right board from the dealer.

(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100170507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=hardybacker&storeId=10051#product_description)

A member tried it and last I heard it was still OK after a month of burning. No personal experience with it.

Oh, that's a great idea. If the dealer doesn't have one on hand, I'll do that.

 

[BrotherBart]

Member HeatsTwice was the one I was referring to that used HardiBacker. Might check with him to see how it worked.

 

[velvetfoot]

Member HeatsTwice was the one I was referring to that used HardiBacker. Might check with him to see how it worked.

Okay you forced me to do a search on my phone, lol.
Here is my thread with Micore.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/need-to-replace-my-quad-2700i-baffle.62141/

 

[gyrfalcon]

That Hardiebacker looks like great stuff, if I can cut it to size, which it doesn't look from the comments on the vendor site like it's necessarily all that easy.

I may do that before calling the dealer. I'm intending to get a bigger stove for next year and will have to give this one away because of various problems (worn down latch lip in the cast door frame, not to mention cosmetic problems and now the baffle), so sounds like it makes more sense to use the very cheap Hardiebacker for the rest of this heating season rather than spending 50 bucks on a new baffle.

Great stuff, guys! I knew you'd know what to do.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Member HeatsTwice was the one I was referring to that used HardiBacker. Might check with him to see how it worked.

Me no fndee Memberheatstwice, Member Heats Twice or Member Heatstwice in the search box!

 

[BrotherBart]

Me no fndee Memberheatstwice, Member Heats Twice or Member Heatstwice in the search box!

Member means a member of the forum.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/members/heatstwice.3677/

 

[begreen]

Cutting Hardibacker or Durock is easy. You just score it heavily with a utility knife on both sides, then snap it up toward you at the score line.

 

[velvetfoot]

The micore lasted a month for me before it fell apart.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Member means a member of the forum.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/members/heatstwice.3677/

Arrrggh. I knew that!! <cough> thank you.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Cutting Hardibacker or Durock is easy. You just score it heavily with a utility knife on both sides, then snap it up toward you at the score line.

Oh, good. Thanks very much.

 

[topoftheriver]

Were it me I would go to Home Depot and get a sheet of 1/2" Hardibacker, the one without mesh in it, and cut a piece for temporary service until you can get the right board from the dealer.

(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100170507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=hardybacker&storeId=10051#product_description)

A member tried it and last I heard it was still OK after a month of burning. No personal experience with it.

I'd prefer buying vermiculite and cutting it to size. It should always work and won't warp.

 

[Dix]

Hang in there, Gyr !!

It'll get done some how !!

Rooting for you, GF !

*I have no other advice*

 

[BrotherBart]

I'd prefer buying vermiculite and cutting it to size. It should always work and won't warp.

And you would run right out this afternoon and buy it where?

 

[topoftheriver]

And you would run right out this afternoon and buy it where?

In most cases you would have to buy it online. You know that! But in the meantime, there are solutions for the short term like some temporary sheet metal replacement. If it need bending, the bend it. I don't know of any place that sells vermiculite in squares, sheets, or otherwise. I meant nothing by the suggestion but only as a solution. But thanks, Bro Bart. It's always nice exchanging ideas, wouldn't you say.

 

[Dix]

In most cases you would have to buy it online. You know that! But in the meantime, there are solutions for the short term like some temporary sheet metal replacement. If it need bending, the bend it. I don't know of any place that sells vermiculite in squares, sheets, or otherwise. I meant nothing by the suggestion but only as a solution. But thanks, Bro Bart. It's always nice exchanging ideas, wouldn't you say.

Gyr is a woman, living in the mountains in Vermont... ain't gonna happen too quickly.