Rust converter??

[1kzwoman]

Has anyone ever used a rust converter? I am hoping for positive input about them.
I have a small travel trailer that has some rust spots starting on frame.
POR 15 seems very labor intensive. Almost as bad as sanding and repainting

IPI 1Step rust killer is another. Coriseal ?
Thank you for replies

 

[Dune]

Nothing is easy. Rust never sleeps. Cup brush on a side grinder, self etching primer. POR15 works but is expensive.

 

[begreen]

It depends how deep the rusting has gone and how thick the metal is. I have used Naval Jelly with success on some projects. It converts the iron oxide into a stabile compound. The area should be primed and painted in a day or two afterward.

(broken link removed to http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_naval/overview/Loctite-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver.htm)

 

[ironpony]

I have used POR on some piping, not the prettiest when done but never seen anymore rust.

 

[peakbagger]

Rust Converter converts the rust to a stable oxide. As long as its top coated it will not start rusting again but it the top coating is damaged it will startup again.

 

[gzecc]

I did my landscape trailer with por a year ago. Very pleased with the results. Remember to use conventional paint to cover the por when complete.

 

[1kzwoman]

Thank you all for your replies. I have decided to wash well,sand to bare metal, degrease, prime with rust inhibitor primer, lightly sand full frame, then top coat with oil based paint. The rust is not extensive but want to work against it now. If I see it returning within two years then POR 15 is on my to do.

 

[Highbeam]

I have used the por15 system and it failed. No better than any other paint on top of a converter. Skip it.

 

[peakbagger]

In my prior career it was popular with our maintenance crew for use on papermachines that are always wet and the environment is corrosive. Prep was wire brushing then an application of rust converter and a very good epoxy topcoat. As long as the top coat wasn't damaged or there were seams or joints that could "work" it lasted for a few years. If the top coat was damaged it would start rusting under the topcoat and eventually the top coat would come off in sheets. I generally regard it as "window dressing" that looks good for awhile but doesn't solve the underlying issue. There are some rust converter products that are used after thorough surface prep is done. They are applied "just in case" when the majority of the metal is clean and shiny, rust will hide in pits and the converter works pretty well as there are generally many topcoats.

About the best paint for brush work out there is catalyzed polyester. It comes in two part pack and the two parts are mixed and then applied. The only consumer grade stuff is sold at boat supply stores like Hamilton Marine. Expensive but it is tough. There are commercial versions (Imron) but they are very hazardous to apply, full respirators are needed due to the solvent carriers. As long as there is good surface prep, the top coat is so tough the water cant get under it.

 

[1kzwoman]

My research and your replies indicate that rock chips cause paint damage. Then elbow grease and good paint and good maintai nce ( I admit I didn't check sooner for rust) well contain the issue. Thank you all again

 

[mass_burner]

I have used POR on some piping, not the prettiest when done but never seen anymore rust.

yes, i've used POR-15 and POR puddy on the floors/inner fenders of my '71 VW. Definitely stopped the rust. Nasty stuff though.

 

[festerw]

Chassis Saver is supposed to work very well and doesn't require a top coat, it's a little cheaper than POR15 also.