Saving wood with warm temps?

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Split

Member
Aug 28, 2022
165
Nova Scotia, Canada
This winter has been very warm. I'm in Nova Scotia above Maine. Due to the warm winter I have saved a tonne of dry wood for next season. I'll definitely be in a two year cycle already. This is my second winter with my stove. I grabbed five cords already css for next winter bit still have at least four cords left from this winter. Woooooo!

Have you been able to save wood? How's your stockpile?
 
We have burned a whole lot less this year. The warm weather has made a difference in two ways. Of course it takes less wood to heat the house but also I have been using the mini split more. Running the stove less gave me the chance to see that the heat pump was capable of doing much more to heat by itself than I thought. There is a price to pay for that but the saved wood is better than money in the bank.
 
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We've been the opposite with a colder than normal 2023 winter. Getting low in the woodshed but we will switch to the heat pump as temps moderate.
 
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Burned a lot less wood than I thought I would going into this winter. Been in the 80's here already, trees have blossomed out grass needs mowing CRAZY!
 
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More than I know what to do with.
 
Burned a lot less wood than I thought I would going into this winter. Been in the 80's here already, trees have blossomed out grass needs mowing CRAZY!
Our soil temps are above 55F (2, 4, and 8 inches deep) already. I've planted lettuces, potatoes, broccoli, collards, and carrots this past week.
My wood pile was getting low but I had three large pecan trees next to the house taken down a few days ago. I figure at least 5 full cords if not more. They were 30-36 inches in diameter 2 feet above the ground.
I only use a 2-3 face cords a year.
 
This winter has been very warm. I'm in Nova Scotia above Maine. Due to the warm winter I have saved a tonne of dry wood for next season. I'll definitely be in a two year cycle already. This is my second winter with my stove. I grabbed five cords already css for next winter bit still have at least four cords left from this winter. Woooooo!

Have you been able to save wood? How's your stockpile?
how the heck you only burn 1 cord o wood?
 
I've only burned about 1/2 of what I thought that I would. Although there have been some lazy days this year that I should have made a fire and didn't. I am sitting on about 3 cords that have been CSS for 2 years (burned about 1 cord this year) and I just got a log delivery of "4 cords". Once it is processed we will see how much it actually is, but if its anything over 3 cords I'll be happy.
 
We didn't decide to get an Insert until about July, so I was at a severe wood deficit. A lot of expenses between the stove and a new water treatment system so I've kept my wood purchases to a minimum. I am almost out. Maybe two or three fires left.. I have a lot CSS but a good amount is Oak that will need at least another year. I also have a bunch of Ash and some Pine that should be good for next year. Most of my wood purchases has been slabwood from a local saw mill. That is tricky because I don't know how long it has been drying and the thickness varies. Some pieces are under 20% some way over. I ended up cutting to length, splitting and separating every piece by MC. Also, I had to do that in not-optimal conditions. No way could I bring almost a cord of wood into the house to get to room temp to test MC, so it got tested in about 45 degree weather. Somehow some of the higher MC got mixed in with the lower stuff as I had a few fires this past week that really blackened the glass. Rechecked my wood (after bringing in and warming up for a day and then resplitting) and found a few High MC mixed in with the under 20. last night I got a bunch of the under 20 split relatively small and got a good hot fire going to try to cook out any buildup. Also did not shut the damper all the way down.Even though it is a cat stove I think I am going to need to keep that damper open a bit every time. I also have about 2/3 cord of that slabwood left that hopefully will be ready for next season.
 
Our soil temps are above 55F (2, 4, and 8 inches deep) already. I've planted lettuces, potatoes, broccoli, collards, and carrots this past week.
My wood pile was getting low but I had three large pecan trees next to the house taken down a few days ago. I figure at least 5 full cords if not more. They were 30-36 inches in diameter 2 feet above the ground.
I only use a 2-3 face cords a year.
We dropped 20 trees right behind the house that had gotten a little too large for comfort over the last 30 years. Some were 85ft tall, most are oak. Can't find anyone interested in the logs so most is becoming firewood. If this warming keeps up I'm good until about 2030.
 
Put my new PE Vista in last June and brought in 3 cords in Aug/ Sept. Had another cord that was ready to burn from family members. Did not know what to expect with the stove, how my 1,800 sq ft house would heat or the mild temps we ended up having. Home heated extremely well and only used about a cord so very happy with the result and the money I saved with my gas and electric bill. Used the heat pump when temps were over 40. Bringing in another cord next month to season for 3 summers before I use it.
 
I have been using the mini split more. Running the stove less gave me the chance to see that the heat pump was capable of doing much more to heat by itself than I thought. There is a price to pay for that but the saved wood is better than money in the bank.
We had Mitsubishi mini splits installed last summer and I was shocked at how much electricity they used in December. It cost me far more to heat with the minisplit than with our NG boiler. Our installer did warn me that they would be less useful under 40 degrees...
 
We had Mitsubishi mini splits installed last summer and I was shocked at how much electricity they used in December. It cost me far more to heat with the minisplit than with our NG boiler. Our installer did warn me that they would be less useful under 40 degrees...
Once temps drop the heat pump doesn't have much to work with to make heat, minisplits don't have auxillary heat. I went to a heat pump this year but it is a combo with gas for auxillary.
 
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We had Mitsubishi mini splits installed last summer and I was shocked at how much electricity they used in December. It cost me far more to heat with the minisplit than with our NG boiler. Our installer did warn me that they would be less useful under 40 degrees...
That is what many folks are getting surprised with especially this winter where the power rates were very high. Over the course of the year, your heating and cooling bill may average out to lower costs but the bills in winter can be brutal. Ideally if someone has solar and a good net metering policy, they can build up enough credits in the summer to burn them up in the winter. Depending on your soils and budget you could could look at geothermal where a couple of wells or a lot of digging are installed to install a long loop of HDPE pipe that is used in place of the outdoor air to grab heat from. Its pricey up front but there are usually good incentives and ground water is warmer in the winter and cooler in the summerso the efficiency is high than an air source system. Most systems put out hot air but newer ones can put out warm (not hot water) which typically means new low temp radiant panel heaters and air handlers for cooling. Hard to justify for existing house that is not super efficient but probably the best system out there int he long run.
 
Once temps drop the heat pump doesn't have much to work with to make heat, minisplits don't have auxillary heat. I went to a heat pump this year but it is a combo with gas for auxillary.
Not quite sure what you mean of the type you have. My mini split has no problem heating to -15. Also the inverter system makes it very efficient. Since electric rates are high I mainly use the stove when it’s in the 30’s or below. Also NG rates are dropping and that is my primary heat. Heat pump is great in the shoulder season.
 
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Ideally if someone has solar and a good net metering policy, they can build up enough credits in the summer to burn them up in the winter.
This is what we do here and it works really well. Our house is 100% electric. We have an 11.8 kw system on the roof and and older soon to be replaced but still works well (2006 Trane X13) heat pump that has backup auxiliary heat. The aux heat threshold is 37 degrees but we use the stove anything 45 or below because we like to be warm. The stove can carry the full load until it gets below 10 degrees for any long stretch then it needs some help overnight. We only see those temps maybe a week or two total every year so it's not a big deal. We keep the house at 75 in the summer to take the edge off and the humidity down for the dog. Typically by November I have around $300 to $400 saved up via net metering to help us run the house in the winter. Our only "real" bills come in Feb/Mar when we pay about $150 then the rest of the year we pay nothing.

I'd highly recommend the heat pump/solar combo to anyone with a good roof/location for it. I'm looking forward to upgrading to a more modern heat pump in the near future. The newer ones can operate more efficiently at even lower temps. Ours is still going strong but a 17 year old R22 system so we're treating it like a used car. Once it becomes cost prohibitive to maintain we'll replace it with a modern R410a system.
 
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Not quite sure what you mean of the type you have. My mini split has no problem heating to -15. Also the inverter system makes it very efficient. Since electric rates are high I mainly use the stove when it’s in the 30’s or below. Also NG rates are dropping and that is my primary heat. Heat pump is great in the shoulder season.

heat pumps that still work well heating in sub zero temps have an electric resistance heater that kicks in at the low temps which use a lot more electric than the heat pump.
 
This is what we do here and it works really well. Our house is 100% electric. We have an 11.8 kw system on the roof and and older soon to be replaced but still works well (2006 Trane X13) heat pump that has backup auxiliary heat. The aux heat threshold is 37 degrees but we use the stove anything 45 or below because we like to be warm. The stove can carry the full load until it gets below 10 degrees for any long stretch then it needs some help overnight. We only see those temps maybe a week or two total every year so it's not a big deal. We keep the house at 75 in the summer to take the edge off and the humidity down for the dog. Typically by November I have around $300 to $400 saved up via net metering to help us run the house in the winter. Our only "real" bills come in Feb/Mar when we pay about $150 then the rest of the year we pay nothing.

I'd highly recommend the heat pump/solar combo to anyone with a good roof/location for it. I'm looking forward to upgrading to a more modern heat pump in the near future. The newer ones can operate more efficiently at even lower temps. Ours is still going strong but a 17 year old R22 system so we're treating it like a used car. Once it becomes cost prohibitive to maintain we'll replace it with a modern R410a system.
My wife who is the medical professional in the family is not keen on having solar panels on our roof. She worries about the kids sleeping upstairs and the long term effects of having electricity/ radiation over their heads. Also she does not like the look of how panels would look on the roof of our cape. My buddy is a local deputy fire chief and mentioned how solar panels are risky during a fire. They do happen. The other issue I have is when I need my roof stripped or an overlay done. Since our house is very efficient there are too many negatives for us to save a few dollars in electricity.

I noticed a huge improvement just changing out my bulbs and making sure the kids turn lights off etc.
 
heat pumps that still work well heating in sub zero temps have an electric resistance heater that kicks in at the low temps which use a lot more electric than the heat pump.
Got it. But I’m sure can still be cheaper than people heating with oil in a pinch. I don’t run mine in extreme cold since that is what option 1 the stove is for. Option 2 would be my NG system. Heat pump is is a stop gap for us in the shoulder seasons and awesome for AC in the summer. Much cheaper than running the old 5k btu window units that sucked the electricity.
 
heat pumps that still work well heating in sub zero temps have an electric resistance heater that kicks in at the low temps which use a lot more electric than the heat pump.
I thought that this ("have resistance heater") is not generally true for mini splits such as the Mitsubishi hyper heat. Of course at low temps more energy is used to move heat from outside to inside.

Hence a stove+heat pump combo being nicely complementary.
 
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I thought that this ("have resistance heater") is not generally true for mini splits such as the Mitsubishi hyper heat. Of course at low temps more energy is used to move heat from outside to inside.

Hence a stove+heat pump combo being nicely complementary.
Correct. Just found this out with the Fujitsu as XLTH as well. Sure uses more energy but still super efficient.
 
My wife who is the medical professional in the family is not keen on having solar panels on our roof. She worries about the kids sleeping upstairs and the long term effects of having electricity/ radiation over their heads. Also she does not like the look of how panels would look on the roof of our cape. My buddy is a local deputy fire chief and mentioned how solar panels are risky during a fire. They do happen. The other issue I have is when I need my roof stripped or an overlay done. Since our house is very efficient there are too many negatives for us to save a few dollars in electricity.

I noticed a huge improvement just changing out my bulbs and making sure the kids turn lights off etc.
Wow, looks like you have a challenge with your spouse, interesting that a medical professional would be so wrong on solar. Sad to see how people seem to get such wrong information unless they are using it to reflect other concerns they do not want to bring up. Sunlight is radiation from the sun, the panels are just intercepting a portion of the sun and converting it to useful AC power, the same AC power that is running through the walls of the house and in the power lines running in every public building and through the neighborhood. The power electronics in the device that converts the power from the panel to AC is not much different than a power supply in TV or laptop. If there is RF generated by the electronics, its diminishes rapidly with distance. A cell phone on the other hand is a known source of RF with far more output power right next to the body, so unless cell phones are banned in the home that is a far bigger risk. Highly likely your utility has a RF transmitter in your power meter so they can read it remotely and of course if you have wifi in the house, you are pumping the house full of RF.

Not sure where the fire chief is getting his outdated info, for several years all solar panels mounted on a roof are required to have rapid shutdown electronics per NEC, effectively if the power is turned off to the house the panels cannot put out more than 50 volts outside of the panel frame. Most panel put out zero volts but the 50 volt threshold is used as that is not enough to hurt someone. Roof ventilation usually occurs at the ridgepole and so either side works just as well. Sadly a lot of smaller especially volunteer departments just do not train their folks very well with respect to solar. I got a free training program available on the web and supplied it to the local fire chief when I installed mine 20 plus years ago and they include it in their training rotation. The biggest risk with Rapid shut down panels is some fireman damaging them dragging equipment across the roof. Yes in very rare occasions panels have ignited, due to damage from animals or defective components. That is true of any electrical component, you have for more risk with a wood stove than panels on the roof.

Fire code requires access "lanes" both above the panels and beside them for fire dept access. Most homes have a back roof facing away from the sun and most fire departments access the roof from the side without the panels and usually waive the requirement.

Your concern about roof replacement is valid, do not install panels on an old roof. Most roofs are now 30 years guarantee. And if you roof is marginal most tax advisors will interpret IRS guidance that the replacement of the roof on the side the panels are located can be included in the installation cost of the panels which qualify for a 30% federal tax credit (not deduction). Aesthetics are subjective, panels can be made less obvious by the use of black frames but it all comes down to they look "different", your spouses ugly panels on the roof are offset by zero power bills every month for as long as you live at the house. Put the money you were paying for power into the kids college fund and it will add up. If you are still living there in 30 years, the panels are long since paid for, but still cranking out power, and anyone stripping the roof can take them down in about an hour or so. There are valuable materials in the panels and panel recycling is slowly starting to be put in place although most are being grabbed for reuse.

If the power is not coming through the panels is coming from the street. Meanwhile looks like you have natural gas running to the house which implies a gas stove?. Definitely a high health risk than panels on a roof.

The reality in Mass is if you do not have solar, you are paying for your neighbor to install it via your monthly power bill. Its likely you are looking at an 8% per year increase on your power bill for the transmission portion of the bill to pay for all the incentives.
 
I have solar panels and had unexpected roof damage requiring my roof to need replacement after 7 years. The solar company charged me less than $1000 to remove the panels and put them back on after the roof was replaced so it's not that big a deal to have a roof replaced with panels on it.
 
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