I agree the OP is potentially sticky worthy and second the idea saw chains should be sharpened, at least looked over and touched up, with every fuel fill.
Saw chains and sharpening
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3 strokes with a file every time you add fuel. You can feel if they need another. Easier on the body to keep it sharp.
I spray the boots and pants with Cutters to deter ticks. Had the Lyme issue last Summer, and am leery of a repeat.
I spray the boots and pants with Cutters to deter ticks. Had the Lyme issue last Summer, and am leery of a repeat.
Caw
Minister of Fire
I sharpen every 1-2 tanks depending on what I'm cutting. Red oak, black locust, and sugar maple eat through chains and I sharpen every refuel. Softer stuff like red maple, cherry, pine etc I can get away with every other refuel.
Sharpening takes 5 minutes once you get good at it and will save you a ton of fuel, time, and aggravation in the future. Not to mention it's much safer using sharp tools.
I had one friend I found out was throwing out dull chains and just buying new ones every time. Yikes! Even paying the local store to do it for $20 a whack is wild. It's so easy and the tools are cheap.
Sharpening takes 5 minutes once you get good at it and will save you a ton of fuel, time, and aggravation in the future. Not to mention it's much safer using sharp tools.
I had one friend I found out was throwing out dull chains and just buying new ones every time. Yikes! Even paying the local store to do it for $20 a whack is wild. It's so easy and the tools are cheap.
I switch chains every 2 tanks. Then resharpen both. After about 5 resharpens I spend the $10 to have it done professionally to get all of the angles correct. I have an electric sharpener and a file set. On Safety equipment, just got an Oregon logging helmet that is great. I have el cheapo chaps, but they are better than nothing.
The chainsaw lore, questions, and info can be found in the Gear forum. Which is where this thread is heading.
Look into the Stihl 2 in 1 chain sharpener. Easy peasy
Ashful
Minister of Fire
If you move the thread, I can answer Bill!
j/k... Stihl 2-in-1 or Pferd seem to be the preferred manual methods by most firewood cutters, who haven't yet learned free-hand. Many will graduate from these machines to free-hand later, but it's a good place to start.
There's also bench-top grinders ($$$ to $$$$) or Dremel accessories ($$), depending on the budget.
In addition to the files you will need a depth gauge. As you file back the teeth you need to adjust the depth so that the teeth tack the right size bite out of the wood. Lots of You Tube videos on that
Ashful
Minister of Fire
You choose your file and sharpening angles based on the specifications of your chain manufacturer.
When hand sharpening, you simply follow the "sharpening angle" with the correct file diameter, keep it square to the bar, and it will naturally yield the proper top plate and side plate angles, based on the design of the tooth. In this case, you only need to know three numbers:
- File diameter (eg. 7/32")
- Sharpening angle (usually close to 30°)
- Depth gauge height (usually close to .026")
- File diameter = wheel width
- Top plate angle (30°ish)
- Side plate angle (60°ish)
- Rake angle (10°ish)
- Depth gauge height (.026"ish)
Sharpening more often is better than waiting until the chain is really dull. If you have the hand file you can give the chain a quick touch up in a few minutes. If your chip size is getting small you should check the depth. (Do that from time to time anyway) You'll need a flat file for that. I like to bring the chains to be professionally sharpened every 6th time, just to make sure the angles are correct. Also, if you notice the saw drifting to one side, check the depth
Ashful
Minister of Fire
It's real complicated the first time you do it, or change to a new chain type. But once you learn the angles and method, it just becomes simple repetition. You can handle it.
The cost of a new chain on amazon always precluded me from sharpening. Now I have 5 or so chains sitting in the corner of my shed that I think I really ought to sharpen. I found a guy on you tube that makes it fairly damn easy.
It is amazing how a sharpened/new chain will just grab and pull into wood and just rip through it in seconds. It's almost addictive to want that feeling each and every cut.
It is amazing how a sharpened/new chain will just grab and pull into wood and just rip through it in seconds. It's almost addictive to want that feeling each and every cut.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I have 3 to 10 chains for each of my bars: 36", 28", 20" and 14". Real easy to swap chains while out in the woods cutting, and sharpen them all at home on some random weeknight after work. But I buy expensive chain, I'd not want to be replacing it with new, every time it needs sharpening!
I have a weird size chain (well weird tooth count). So generally I need to buy mfg chain. My only issue with hand sharpenning is I don't have a bench vice, so my hand cramps putting enough pressure as I am holding the saw with the other hand
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Dude.... $15 would have your issues solved!
Edit: Found elsewhere as cheap as $9.
Have to disagree, I filed by hand for years freehand. my hands and wrists hurt so badly filing would kill me. I have a Dremel and a bench grinder if needed. The 2 in 1 is so comfortable to hold compared to freehand filing it's a pleasure.If you move the thread, I can answer Bill!
j/k... Stihl 2-in-1 or Pferd seem to be the preferred manual methods by most firewood cutters, who haven't yet learned free-hand. Many will graduate from these machines to free-hand later, but it's a good place to start.
There's also bench-top grinders ($$$ to $$$$) or Dremel accessories ($$), depending on the budget.
@BillBurns You have to know what size chain you have on the saw, that determines the size of the file needed to sharpen it. The size should be stamped into the bar.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I cut a lot, especially when you add in the mill. I prefer having two or more chains per saw and then grinding a big pile of them. This only works if you have a good grinder, otherwise I agree that it's better to hand file the chains as they dull. Hand filing never worked for me, so I at least use a bar mounted jig. Not as fast as a person really good at hand filing, but the results are worth it. I don't have time to deal with the frustration of learning to hand file. The grinder and jigs took much less time to figure out and gave immediate results.
Using the jig or grinder I can make a chain cut faster and smoother than new. Half of that is sharp cutters, the other half is getting the rakers right. The best way is really the Oregon raker file guide and a flat file.
Using the jig or grinder I can make a chain cut faster and smoother than new. Half of that is sharp cutters, the other half is getting the rakers right. The best way is really the Oregon raker file guide and a flat file.
I paid to have a chain sharpened on a grinder only once, it was so messed up when I got it back it barely cut. That was also the chain I decided to get good hand filing on. Dad used to fell trees for a living and watching him over the years I learned the hand filing technique, a couple hours in the garage with a few Youtube videos perfecting the technique and I was set.
I'm at the point now I don't run a chain straight out of the box, I can get it sharper hand filing than Husqvarna's (Oregon I believe) mechanical grinder can get it. Last fall Dad and I were cutting wood, he got some sawdust in the fuel tank of his (455 Rancher) and plugged up the carb. I gave him my saw to continue and I'd pack the wood instead, he finished up everything without stopping, once he was done he said "that saw sure runs good, and the chain is razor sharp too". That was all the reinforcement I needed.
I'm at the point now I don't run a chain straight out of the box, I can get it sharper hand filing than Husqvarna's (Oregon I believe) mechanical grinder can get it. Last fall Dad and I were cutting wood, he got some sawdust in the fuel tank of his (455 Rancher) and plugged up the carb. I gave him my saw to continue and I'd pack the wood instead, he finished up everything without stopping, once he was done he said "that saw sure runs good, and the chain is razor sharp too". That was all the reinforcement I needed.
Caw
Minister of Fire
I've been filing by hand using a quick guide for years. Its easy to use and is just as fast as free handing it. I typically sharpen every other tank of gas and it only takes about 5 minutes once you get the hang of it. If I'm cutting softwood I may sharpen less, dry hardwood more. I hit the rakers every 5 sharpenings or so depending on how the chips look.
I like to have a couple chains and an extra bar available when I start bucking a big haul. That way if there's an issue it's a quick swap and I'm back to cutting. I cut a lot of hardwood yard trees from tree services so you never know if a log will move unpredictability and you'll get pinched or chunk a tooth on some hidden metal.
I use one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B0035AKJN0
I like to have a couple chains and an extra bar available when I start bucking a big haul. That way if there's an issue it's a quick swap and I'm back to cutting. I cut a lot of hardwood yard trees from tree services so you never know if a log will move unpredictability and you'll get pinched or chunk a tooth on some hidden metal.
I use one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B0035AKJN0
Harbor freight had a bench vise on clearance for a little over $30.. Would rather have that as I can use it for other stuff
Stove Cricket
Member
Two fine tunes to my file-guide-based sharpening strategy very recently include 1) checking that each set of adjacent and opposing teeth are the same size - shouldn’t be surprising I guess that some adjustment was needed on a 50% wore chain (primarily on one side), and 2) if the tooth slicks out after 1-2 file strokes the rake inevitably needs to be taken down a bit. I sharpen with every tank fill, and give the file a quarter turn in the guide. My 661 pulled out a great bushy pile of slivers this afternoon. ...the bench vise thing sounds like it could be helpful.
