Sealing vent pipe options... And other questions?

[btbeam]

So I purchased an englander IP and I am planning on finishing the install Sunday. I have a corner install. I started with a clean out tee, up 5' then an 90 degree elbow then out 18", another clean out tee then lastly up 2' to an elbow to a termination point. I used 4" pipe because of the extra bends. I want to be able to paint the interior pipe this summer so I want to be able to get it apart. I already siliconed the adapter to the tee then up 5" and the elbow. It really seems difficult to possibly get it apart so I am concerned about how to proceed. What is the best way to hook up the adapter to the stove? Is there any benefit to sealing pipes that are outside?

 

[mikkeeh]

I usually install the adaptor with both high temp silicone, and screws. Silicone is difficult to get apart. I apply a light bead to the joint after assembly. If you silicone the inside of the joint, you will likely never get it apart. Joints greater than 12" from the stove can also be sealed with high temp tape...easier to get apart than silicone, but leaves a residue on the pipe. I guess if I wanted black pipe, I would have installed that in the first place....assuming you're intending to paint black. Or carefully tarp the area and paint in place. I don't worry about sealing joints outside. You may get other opinions tho.

 

[alternativeheat]

So I purchased an englander IP and I am planning on finishing the install Sunday. I have a corner install. I started with a clean out tee, up 5' then an 90 degree elbow then out 18", another clean out tee then lastly up 2' to an elbow to a termination point. I used 4" pipe because of the extra bends. I want to be able to paint the interior pipe this summer so I want to be able to get it apart. I already siliconed the adapter to the tee then up 5" and the elbow. It really seems difficult to possibly get it apart so I am concerned about how to proceed. What is the best way to hook up the adapter to the stove? Is there any benefit to sealing pipes that are outside?

I was told by the dealer to seal with silicone the pipe to the stove and she said that in fact you really want to seal all joints on an install. My Harman instructions say to seal all inside joints ( inside the building) for smoke and fume control. I can see one advantage to sealing outside joints as well. That would be as a staining barrier where you want it painted. Outdoors you might try just using plumbers caulking or other soft sealer that never really hardens up fully if your goal is to take it apart. I personally would use just regular silicone outside if I cared about the possible staining that could occur or otherwise, nothing at all.

My install is going together with red RTV, I have no intention of taking this thing apart over the next 20 years and if I need to I'm sure I will find a way.. High heat graded for automotive use, good for spurts of 500deg I believe the label indicates. I don't know, I used it on a section of loose door gasket and it holds to this day and the front of my coal stove is a real hot spot on that stove.

 

[btbeam]

I appreciate the response. I can see the ones I sealed the inside are not coming off for sure. I just am concerned that if I need to change a part or clean I will need to disconect from stove. I am new to all this thanks

 

[mixpat]

I used self-bonding high-temp silicone tape inside and out. A little pricey, but so much easier to work with and no mess.

 

[alternativeheat]

I was told by the dealer to seal with silicone the pipe to the stove and she said that in fact you really want to seal all joints on an install. My Harman instructions say to seal all inside joints ( inside the building) for smoke and fume control. I can see one advantage to sealing outside joints as well. That would be as a staining barrier where you want it painted. Outdoors you might try just using plumbers caulking or other soft sealer that never really hardens up fully if your goal is to take it apart. I personally would use just regular silicone outside if I cared about the possible staining that could occur or otherwise, nothing at all.

My install is going together with red RTV, I have no intention of taking this thing apart over the next 20 years and if I need to I'm sure I will find a way.. High heat graded for automotive use, good for spurts of 500deg I believe the label indicates. I don't know, I used it on a section of loose door gasket and it holds to this day and the front of my coal stove is a real hot spot on that stove.

Well, if you have a good pipe fit at the stove to begin with then just use some high heat tape to seal the joint. Then you know you can get it apart. I work in the heavy truck industry, have used RTV for decades and have never failed to get a piece back apart again down the road a ways, often with just a good pry with a bar or good sized screw driver. I can't imagine with a block of wood and pry bar I couldn't get a piece of pipe off the stove. Or for that matter just unbolt the flange if need be ( my P61 has three bolts holding the pipe flange to the stove). There is always a way. RTV is not all that strong really, it's rubbery when dry. It bonds yes but it's nothing like stove gasket cement.

 

[rickwai]

We just silicone the stove adapter on. Using the simson pro pipe w/ the smooth exterior and oring seals we have no problem. If you silicone the pipe you will ruin it getting it back apart guaranteed. Rtv is not very strong but neither is the pipe. If you try to grip it to twist it hard enough to break the seal you are crushing the pipe.

 

[alternativeheat]

We just silicone the stove adapter on. Using the simson pro pipe w/ the smooth exterior and oring seals we have no problem. If you silicone the pipe you will ruin it getting it back apart guaranteed. Rtv is not very strong but neither is the pipe. If you try to grip it to twist it hard enough to break the seal you are crushing the pipe.

I see. Not sure my dealer has the pro pipe, I'll know later today though.