Seasoned, what does it mean?

[HollowHill]

Hi, I'm considering the purchase of a wood stove and have been reading over this excellent site; gleaning a lot of valuable info and realizing how much I don't know :red: One of the issues I'm confused on is - what is considered seasoned wood? Is it 6 months dried, 12 months dried, 24 months dried? How does the type of wood affect these guidelines? Does the stove it's going to burn in have any effect on it (cat vs. non-cat)? How, then, does a person get started with wood burning? Do you cut down some trees and wait 2 years? If you purchase wood, how can you tell if it's been seasoned long enough? Is there a better time of year to buy wood?

I've got a woodlot, not sure what kind of trees are on it. Since my husband is not interested in this endeavor, I'm on my own. Since I don't have the gear, knowledge or strength/dexterity to cut my own, I'm wondering if I could offer to go shares with someone who has the gear, etc, but not the woodlot - he gets a certain amount of what he cuts as do I. Does that happen? What type of arrangement is usually made?

Thanks.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Not sure where you are in CNY, but there are guys on the Syracuse Craigslist selling face cords for $35. From my experience, you are almost guaranteed to not find any seasoned wood anywhere this time of year here. However, this is a good time to be shopping for next year. But then again, seasoned means something different to everyone.

 

[Chettt]

Seasoned to a wood seller = it was cut over a week ago. To a buyer = it was cut 18 to 24 months ago. The drier the better and it just takes time. Split as much as you can this year and next and then you will always have properly seasoned wood.

 

[lexybird]

Seasoned to a wood seller = it was cut over a week ago. To a buyer = it was cut 18 to 24 months ago. The drier the better and it just takes time. Split as much as you can this year and next and then you will always have properly seasoned wood.

exactly .........

 

[BrotherBart]

There is no such thing as "seasoned" wood. There is wet wood and there is dry wood. "Seasoned" is an antiquated term that should not even be part of a wood burners vocabulary any more. Seasoned is a vague concept open to interpretation by who ever uses the term. "Dry" is a definable thing meaning less than 25% moisture content.

 

[Pagey]

Generally speaking, you'll find that "seasoned" as used by wood burning information sites such as http://www.woodheat.org and in the stove manuals printed by most manufacturers means wood that has been cut, split, and stacked in the dry for 12 months. Again, this is generally speaking.

Seasoning times will vary based on wood species, split size, and climate, for example. Most will tell you that oak takes 2 full years to truly season properly. Pine and other softwoods can season in as little as 6 to 9 months.

Basically, in order for wood to burn properly and give you the cleanest and hottest burn in today's EPA certified stoves, you want wood with a moisture content between 15-20%, ideally. Here's an entire section on WoodHeat.org with plenty of info: (broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/firewood.htm)

 

[Fsappo]

In my EPA certified non cat stove, I used wood that was cut and split for about 8 or 9 months. Long burns, spotless chimney. If you get "seasoned" wood delivered, smell it. If it smells like a tree, its green. If it feels very heavy , it could be green or wet. If you stick a knife into the end of it and it looks juicy, its green. If you look at the end of a split and there are zero cracks, it may be green.

I am in the Central Square area and know a great wood guy who supplies our business and my home. I also have a a few cords in my showroom of VERY seasoned wood. Your welcome to stop by and I'll give you a few sticks. That way, if you buy some wood, you'll be able to see the difference between seasoned and green.

I won't even try to sell you a stove..I just want folks to burn good wood and do it safely. PM me if you want the name of our wood guy.

 

[Jags]

There is no such thing as "seasoned" wood. There is wet wood and there is dry wood. "Seasoned" is an antiquated term that should not even be part of a wood burners vocabulary any more. Seasoned is a vague concept open to interpretation by who ever uses the term. "Dry" is a definable thing meaning less than 25% moisture content.

If anybody just skimmed over this post - please re-read it. It is probably the best piece of newby info that can be given.

 

[ikessky]

Every wood is going to dry a little different, so you really can't just base it on a month figure. White ash will be ready to burn a few months after it is split, but oak will take 1-2 years.
Get at least a year ahead so that you don't have to worry about the wood. When in doubt, check it with a moisture meter.

 

[quads]

Seasoned is as definable as dry, maybe more so. Seasoned is when wood is dry on the inside. It takes several seasons to do that. Dry is confusing. Wood can be dry on the outside after only a few weeks, but still wet on the inside (unseasoned), causing the inexperienced to think that their wood is dry all the way through. Only time (seasons) will do that. Once the wood has been cut, split, and stacked for several seasons, it will be ready to burn both inside and out, no moisture meter needed. Blaming the word won't help anybody. It's not the word's (seasoned) fault, but the wood sellers that lie about it. The same problem could arise if dishonest wood sellers start referring to the wood they sell as "dry", but it is only the outside.

 

[lexybird]

seasoned as in it probably came from a frame of time ,the wood has been cut for a time over the seasons as in: fall winter summer spring

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Hi, I'm considering the purchase of a wood stove and have been reading over this excellent site; gleaning a lot of valuable info and realizing how much I don't know :red: One of the issues I'm confused on is - what is considered seasoned wood? Is it 6 months dried, 12 months dried, 24 months dried? How does the type of wood affect these guidelines? Does the stove it's going to burn in have any effect on it (cat vs. non-cat)? How, then, does a person get started with wood burning? Do you cut down some trees and wait 2 years? If you purchase wood, how can you tell if it's been seasoned long enough? Is there a better time of year to buy wood?

I've got a woodlot, not sure what kind of trees are on it. Since my husband is not interested in this endeavor, I'm on my own. Since I don't have the gear, knowledge or strength/dexterity to cut my own, I'm wondering if I could offer to go shares with someone who has the gear, etc, but not the woodlot - he gets a certain amount of what he cuts as do I. Does that happen? What type of arrangement is usually made?

Thanks.

Please allow me to welcome you to the forum.

You are to be commended for your thought about the fuel even before you get the stove. If more people did this there would be much less problems with wood burning.

You ask first about seasoning wood and have some very good answers already. Let me just add that seasoning of wood is much different depending upon the type of wood you have. If you burn white ash or black cherry, the seasoning time is very quick and can be done over one summer. If you burn red oak, it might very well take up to 3 years.

The second part of the seasoning process is how it is seasoned. First, it must be cut to firewood length (not 8' logs), then split (smaller splits season faster than larger splits) and then stacked (off the ground) where it will get the most benefit from Mother Nature's wind and sunshine. Wind is more important than sun but both is better.

First, we cut our wood during winter. That means there is the least amount of sap in the wood and you also won't bother any birds that might be nesting. During the early Spring we will then split the wood and stack it. We stack it on poles that were cut in the woods but you can also use something like landscape timbers, old RR ties or even old pallets. The main thing is to get the wood off the ground and to allow air circulation.

Stack the wood no more than 5' high or even shorter so you won't have problems with the wood piles falling over. They will shrink as the moisture evaporates. It is not uncommon for that pile to shrink by 6" or more during one summer.

We never cover our wood pile that first summer but will cover the tops only (never cover the sides) before snow flies. You can cover with tarps but they won't last long and if you don't keep the tarp from touching the wood, it will freeze on the wood and you will ruin the tarp when taking it off. You can lay poles on top of the wood and lay tarp over that. There are many other ways to cover wood. We like to use old galvanized roofing but even rubber roofing material works great.

How long will it take to season? That depends upon the wood, how small it is split and how much wind and sun it gets. Most can be ready the following fall but some wood will not be ready yet; wood like oaks which take 2-3 years.

Cutting wood on shares can work very well. Some do it with the cutter getting 2/3 and the seller getting 1/3. Doing this is fine but one definitely has to keep an eye on whoever is doing the cutting. It should not have to be this way but unfortunately many have a tendency to forget how much they have taken...

If cutting on shares it might be best for you to first have someone determine what type of wood you have and what is best to cut out of your wood before you find someone to cut on shares.

Having a cat vs non-cat stove makes little difference except with a cat stove you would have to leave the cat off longer if the wood is questionable lest you ruin the cat with wet wood. We have a cat stove and have no problems with it; in fact, we burn half the wood we used to.

If you are fortunate, you might be able to find a wood burner who might exchange some well seasoned wood for some green wood which would get you to burning right away.

Good luck to you and if you have more questions please do not hesitate to ask.

 

[mellow]

Seasoned: To treat or dry (lumber, for example) until ready for use; cure.

 

[quads]

Please allow me to welcome you to the forum.

You are to be commended for your thought about the fuel even before you get the stove. If more people did this there would be much less problems with wood burning.

You ask first about seasoning wood and have some very good answers already. Let me just add that seasoning of wood is much different depending upon the type of wood you have. If you burn white ash or black cherry, the seasoning time is very quick and can be done over one summer. If you burn red oak, it might very well take up to 3 years.

The second part of the seasoning process is how it is seasoned. First, it must be cut to firewood length (not 8' logs), then split (smaller splits season faster than larger splits) and then stacked (off the ground) where it will get the most benefit from Mother Nature's wind and sunshine. Wind is more important than sun but both is better.

First, we cut our wood during winter. That means there is the least amount of sap in the wood and you also won't bother any birds that might be nesting. During the early Spring we will then split the wood and stack it. We stack it on poles that were cut in the woods but you can also use something like landscape timbers, old RR ties or even old pallets. The main thing is to get the wood off the ground and to allow air circulation.

Stack the wood no more than 5' high or even shorter so you won't have problems with the wood piles falling over. They will shrink as the moisture evaporates. It is not uncommon for that pile to shrink by 6" or more during one summer.

We never cover our wood pile that first summer but will cover the tops only (never cover the sides) before snow flies. You can cover with tarps but they won't last long and if you don't keep the tarp from touching the wood, it will freeze on the wood and you will ruin the tarp when taking it off. You can lay poles on top of the wood and lay tarp over that. There are many other ways to cover wood. We like to use old galvanized roofing but even rubber roofing material works great.

How long will it take to season? That depends upon the wood, how small it is split and how much wind and sun it gets. Most can be ready the following fall but some wood will not be ready yet; wood like oaks which take 2-3 years.

Cutting wood on shares can work very well. Some do it with the cutter getting 2/3 and the seller getting 1/3. Doing this is fine but one definitely has to keep an eye on whoever is doing the cutting. It should not have to be this way but unfortunately many have a tendency to forget how much they have taken...

If cutting on shares it might be best for you to first have someone determine what type of wood you have and what is best to cut out of your wood before you find someone to cut on shares.

Having a cat vs non-cat stove makes little difference except with a cat stove you would have to leave the cat off longer if the wood is questionable lest you ruin the cat with wet wood. We have a cat stove and have no problems with it; in fact, we burn half the wood we used to.

If you are fortunate, you might be able to find a wood burner who might exchange some well seasoned wood for some green wood which would get you to burning right away.

Good luck to you and if you have more questions please do not hesitate to ask.

Now there's some good newby info!

 

[firefighterjake]

What is considered seasoned wood? Well you've already got some great information . . . I have to say by the way that I agree with Quads on the definition of seasoned . . . but Brother Bart and others make some excellent points.

Whatever you call it, dry or seasoned, most of us here would consider seasoned wood to be cut down, bucked to stove length, split and stacked for at least a year (sometimes more with some species -- oak for example -- and sometimes less for some species) OR technically any time that wood is 25% or less in moisture when split and tested with a moisture meter.

I'm like Backwoods and too cheap to buy a moisture meter . . . instead I give my wood over a year to season/dry (although technically I think I may be working on 2+ years now . . . my goal is to be just like Backwoods and Quads and be several years ahead eventually).

As noted, for a wood seller, "seasoned" could mean cut last week, cut and split last a month ago, cut down six moths ago and left in log length . . . there really is no definitive definition.


Is it 6 months dried, 12 months dried, 24 months dried? Me, I consider wood that is cut, split and stacked for at least a year to be seasoned . . . but again it depends on the species in many cases.

How does the type of wood affect these guidelines? More dense woods or woods with more initial moisture content like oak takes longer, much longer to season vs. less dense or "drier" wood species such as white ash may take less time to season.

Does the stove it's going to burn in have any effect on it (cat vs. non-cat)? I think you'll find many cat stove users will say having dry wood is really, really important to help keep the cat working and functional, but the truth is both cats and non-cats really need seasoned wood to burn effectively and cleanly.

How, then, does a person get started with wood burning? Do you cut down some trees and wait 2 years? If you're like most of us, you have a tough first year . . . some folks have a tougher go of it than others. Some luck out and find a great dealer who has wood that is seasoned or pretty close to being seasoned. Some of us luck out and have access to a woodlot with standing dead wood to get us by the first year. Some of us get wood late or end up with less than ideal wood and muddle by, using engineered wood products such as Enviroblocks or Biobricks, use pallets to help bring up the firebox temp, etc.

In my case, I used standing dead elm the first year along with pallets to get by . . . however, at the same time I was cutting, bucking and splitting this year's firewood in the Fall in a mad rush to get as much done as I could . . . this year I am a little ahead . .. . next year I will be even further ahead. . . the goal is to always be thinking ahead and thinking in terms of seasoning your wood for years instead of months.

If you purchase wood, how can you tell if it's been seasoned long enough? Is there a better time of year to buy wood? I don't buy wood, but I would advise folks who are buying wood to buy sooner, rather than later. Get the wood as soon as possible . . . then you know roughly how long it has been seasoned. Around here, most folks tend to buy their wood in the Fall to burn that Fall . . . and sadly, much of this wood was cut and left in log length only a few months before. Me, if I bought wood, I would buy now, but not plan on really using this wood until next Fall.

I've got a woodlot, not sure what kind of trees are on it. Since my husband is not interested in this endeavor, I'm on my own. Since I don't have the gear, knowledge or strength/dexterity to cut my own, I'm wondering if I could offer to go shares with someone who has the gear, etc, but not the woodlot - he gets a certain amount of what he cuts as do I. Does that happen? What type of arrangement is usually made? Around here some folks who have a decent size woodlot, but not the time, skills or inclination to cut wood will either hire a guy to just cut the wood for them or they will make a deal where the guy will take X amount of wood in return for cutting you X amount of wood . . . if you go this route you need to be clear about how much wood each gets and how the wood will be processed -- i.e. just tree length, bucked up or bucked and split (typically I see it left in tree length.) You may be able to offer someone a deal where they get X amount of wood in return for helping you get your wood -- you would be offering access to free wood, they would be offering you access to their skills and time.

 

[smokinj]

I’ve got a woodlot, not sure what kind of trees are on it. Since my husband is not interested in this endeavor, I’m on my own. Since I don’t have the gear, knowledge or strength/dexterity to cut my own, I’m wondering if I could offer to go shares with someone who has the gear, etc, but not the woodlot - he gets a certain amount of what he cuts as do I. Does that happen? What type of arrangement is usually made?



here's the part I like sure wish you lived closer! I would keep you well supplied....

 

[Got Wood]

Without trying to be a wise guy, processing wood take a significant amount of time, labor and cost. Much more then you think. You will never realize how much wood a cord is until you have cut, split and stack a full cord. If you intend on processing (find, transport, cut, split, stack) the wood yourself I suggest trying it out before commiting to the life style. Also, it takes significant investment in wood processing equipment, things like transportation, saws, protective gear, splitting tools (manual, machine). I don't mean to discourage you but I think it is important to be aware of. Personally, I love the life style that goes along with it. The work is fun, great physical exercise and mental therapy. But its not for everyone. I would say the majority of wood burners purchase their wood and have it delivered and stacked. For me, I wouldnt even consider that but I certainly understand why those that do chose to.

 

[smokinj]

Without trying to be a wise guy, processing wood take a significant amount of time, labor and cost. Much more then you think. You will never realize how much wood a cord is until you have cut, split and stack a full cord. If you intend on processing (find, transport, cut, split, stack) the wood yourself I suggest trying it out before commiting to the life style. Also, it takes significant investment in wood processing equipment, things like transportation, saws, protective gear, splitting tools (manual, machine). I don't mean to discourage you but I think it is important to be aware of. Personally, I love the life style that goes along with it. The work is fun, great physical exercise and mental therapy. But its not for everyone. I would say the majority of wood burners purchase their wood and have it delivered and stacked. For me, I wouldnt even consider that but I certainly understand why those that do chose to.

heck she would need in the area of 5 cords a year.The saw guy gets anything else thats dead or fallen not a bad deal for either I'd do it as long as I dont have to stack (dont even do that for myself) and of course Lived close and hunting rights for deer season..

 

[zzr7ky]

Welcome and Hi!

"Seasoned" = Cut and Split out of sight of the buyer; probably will not grow if stuck end first into the ground. It means little.

Lay in your supply a year ahead. Two years if Oak, or shady storage area.

As far as getting someone to cut on 'shares' I've doen the following in the past several times. I'll cut and take 50% of what I buck (Cut to firewood length) leaving the brush where it falls. If I split it, I take away another 50%, leaving the landowner's share in a pile at the location of their choice. I only take this type of deal if it is very close to home, and fairly easy to get to the wood.

All the best!
Mike

 

[EKLawton]

I pay my nephew $50 a cord to cut split and stack. I supply saw wood gas splitter atv trailer and a helping hand.

 

[Hiram Maxim]

Without trying to be a wise guy, processing wood take a significant amount of time, labor and cost. Much more then you think. You will never realize how much wood a cord is until you have cut, split and stack a full cord. If you intend on processing (find, transport, cut, split, stack) the wood yourself I suggest trying it out before commiting to the life style. Also, it takes significant investment in wood processing equipment, things like transportation, saws, protective gear, splitting tools (manual, machine). I don't mean to discourage you but I think it is important to be aware of. Personally, I love the life style that goes along with it. The work is fun, great physical exercise and mental therapy. But its not for everyone. I would say the majority of wood burners purchase their wood and have it delivered and stacked. For me, I wouldnt even consider that but I certainly understand why those that do chose to.

This is certainly true!

Its a real lot of work! hh:

I busted my hump over the last few years to get years ahead of the game...

I now have at least 5 seasons worth of wood on hand.

In the future I will purchase my wood cut, split and maybe even stacked.

If it were me getting into the game knowing what I know now......I might just call a firewood dealer ......maybe

 

[gibson]

I pay my nephew $50 a cord to cut split and stack. I supply saw wood gas splitter atv trailer and a helping hand.

Your nephew must love you or owe you big time. He could make a lot more than $2 per hour mowing lawns or collecting carts at the local supermarket. That being said, I would happily make my son do it when he is old enough (he's only 7). Manual labor for low pay can teach good life lessons. Cheers.

 

[EKLawton]

No he only does it when he need money bad... Hes 16 so he doesnt need money
I figured it out and whith my help he is getting $9 hr... :bug:

 

[Wood Duck]

I’ve got a woodlot, not sure what kind of trees are on it. Since my husband is not interested in this endeavor, I’m on my own. Since I don’t have the gear, knowledge or strength/dexterity to cut my own, I’m wondering if I could offer to go shares with someone who has the gear, etc, but not the woodlot - he gets a certain amount of what he cuts as do I. Does that happen? What type of arrangement is usually made?



here's the part I like sure wish you lived closer! I would keep you well supplied....

I am sure there are guys who would be willing to go shares, but you need to find the right guy. You need also to discuss what tree will be cut, so that you don't have somebody doing more harm than good, leaving tree hung up in the woods, blocking trails, etc. I'd do it, but the drive from Indiana would severely limit the time I'd have left for cutting.

 

[smokinj]

No he only does it when he need money bad... Hes 16 so he doesnt need money
I figured it out and whith my help he is getting $9 hr... :bug:

I pay 10 bucks an hr. and "we" can process start to finish with 2 of use cord every 2 hrs and with gas I figure I am coming in around 30 buck a cord.