Secondary Burn Stopped in Jotul Firelight 600 - After replacement of parts

[Sam Droege]

All:

I have had a Jotul F 600 for about 4 years. It is our primary source of heat and has worked well. At the start of the burn season I replaced the two metal plates that sit atop the burn chamber, installed a new insulation blanket above that and fixed 2 loose secondary burn pipes.

Afterwords the stove burned fine, but I no longer see any burn occurring from gases coming from the secondary burn pipes. I am wondering if I have blocked something. The bolts were too corroded to take off the metal caps that held the secondary burn pipes but I stuck my finger up there and other than loose fireclay it seemed to be clear.

Did I perhaps put in the insulation blanket wrong? I have not been able to find an air flow diagram for this stove so I can check or clean out potential clogs.

Thanks

sam

 

[jotulguy]

When you did the work did you happen to take the tubes out of the manifold and possibly have an alinement issue with them now?

 

[Sam Droege]

When you did the work did you happen to take the tubes out of the manifold and possibly have an alinement issue with them now?

2 of the 4 tubes were loose. the 2 that I reinstalled I had to install using self taping screws near where they went into the manifold. Should be no issues with holes or flow through. Also the 2 tubes that were also unaffected also no longer reburn. I am thinking that I have somehow blocked the air to the manifolds...but I have no idea where that air is coming from! thanks sam

 

[velvetfoot]

I don't have a Jotul, but with the Quads, they had a blanket on top that you had to make sure was positioned properly so it wouldn't block air flow. Not sure if it would affect secondary airflow.

 

[Sam Droege]

I don't have a Jotul, but with the Quads, they had a blanket on top that you had to make sure was positioned properly so it wouldn't block air flow. Not sure if it would affect secondary airflow.

That could be it, because I did install a new insulation blanket...which came with no instructions as to good/bad locations. Are their someone intakes to the reburn manifolds at the font or back above the burn box????

 

[begreen]

First check the chimney cap to be sure it's clean. Assuming that the chimney and cap are clean, it could be that the insulation blanket is bunching under the flue collar and restricting draft. When the stove is cold, remove the top. (2? interior bolts hold it down) That way you can be sure that the plates and insulation blanket are laying flat. Then replace the top, being sure that it is seated correctly and parallel to the base of the stove. You don't need to replace the top bolts if you don't want to. The top is gasketed and its weight will hold it firmly in place.

 

[Sam Droege]

First check the chimney cap to be sure it's clean. Assuming that the chimney and cap are clean, it could be that the insulation blanket is bunching under the flue collar and restricting draft. When the stove is cold, remove the top. (2? interior bolts hold it down) That way you can be sure that the plates and insulation blanket are laying flat. Then replace the top, being sure that it is seated correctly and parallel to the base of the stove. You don't need to replace the top bolts if you don't want to. The top is gasketed and its weight will hold it firmly in place.

Many Thanks. Would that also restrict air going to the manifolds? The stove appears to draw air fine and burn fine but it looks like nothing is going through the manifolds to the burn tubes...unlike previous years where is was burning merrily when hot. Also, if I remove the top won't I have to replace the gasket?

again..thanks

 

[begreen]

No, I don't think it would directly block air to the manifolds. Draft is the engine of the stove. It takes adequate draft to pull air through the secondary passages and up through the burn tubes. If draft is restricted secondary performance will be poor. That's why I suggested looking at the chimney cap screen first.

No, you will not have to replace the top gasket. It's like a door gasket and designed to facilitate ease of access for regular stove service.

 

[Sam Droege]

No, I don't think it would directly block air to the manifolds. Draft is the engine of the stove. It takes adequate draft to pull air through the secondary passages and up through the burn tubes. If draft is restricted secondary performance will be poor. That's why I suggested looking at the chimney cap screen first.

No, you will not have to replace the top gasket. It's like a door gasket and designed to facilitate ease of access for regular stove service.

Sounds good

I will give it a try tonight. to dark to check chimney...

Sounds good

I will give it a try tonight. to dark to check chimney...

Thanks!