Seller/installer is now going to put in full liner

[terrywillie]

Good Morning,
I asked a couple of weeks ago if I should go with the stub or get a full liner. Based on your collective advice I had the seller/installer come back and he is now going to cut out some plate and put in a full liner. He said it will be an Olympic 3xx stainless 6 in. flexible. Is this a good product?
I am getting a Pacific Energy "Pacifica" that will be installed on the south wall of a 1900 sq. ft. ranch that runs north an south. It is rated to heat 2000 sq. ft. If I took my torches to the existing firebox and cut out the back that slants forward I could spend even more money and put in the "Summit" that is rated at 3000 sq. ft. Keeping in mind that cash is hard to come by, and that I have to be able to set in the room with the insert in more than my underwear, is the Pacifica a good choice? I look forward to reading your answers tonight, I have to turn this machine off now.

Yesterday I ended up on Mother Earth News going through old articles, I have copied several to word doc. How to stack and cure wood, wood splitting tables, how to stack a holzhaufen like the old Germans, THE ALASKAN FIREWOOD CUTTING RACK, THE SCIENCE OF Wood Stacking, and on, and on, (way to much time at the computer) If anyone would like any Send me an email. It will be a day or three because I am way behind now.

[email protected]

 

[karl]

When you say “Pacifica” do you mean the Pacific D1 insert?

I live in the southern West Virginia. I'm guessing northern Indiana gets colder than it does here. I have the Summit in a 2600 square foot ranch. Unless your house is super insulated I would reccomend the Summit. It will probably run you 300 or 400 dollars more, but you'll get that back in a few years or less, by the bigger stove keeping your furnace from running over night.

Also the Summit the will take bigger logs. They say 20" ones. I've found 18" to be the biggest you can put in it practically. The Pacific says 18" logs and I'm guessing 16" will be the biggest it will take easily. If you buy your firewood, you'll be cutting alot of it down to size. Just a thought.

 

[begreen]

In the T6, I can squeak in a 19.5" log loaded east/west and a 17" log loaded north/south. So I usually get the coal bed established loading n-s then put on large logs e-w. The 20-21" logs get loaded diagonally. I love having a big box for the room it gives you to work with.

 

[terrywillie]

O boy, it sounds like I need to dig out the oxy/ acetylene and see if I can cut out the old “heat a latter”. Does the flue he is recommending now sound right ?

Your right it is called a Pacific, not sure where I got the extra “A”.

Thanks Terry

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

Yes the flue sounds Ok if your stove manual said it is. Flex is fine, if it's approved for that use. However, if you are taking the trouble to cut out the back of the steal unit, you might consider a rigid pipe. It will be stiff, smooth on the inside, and several times thicker metal than the flex.

I did this on my 17' chimney. I made a template from a coffee can that was the correct size, cut the inner and outer rear sloped steel back out of the heat-a-lator. Then I used a hammer drill to bust out a bit of morter and block rubble. Then I slid the pipe down from the top. It took about 2 hours. I insulated mine since I had 12"x12" flue tiles (plenty of room). It draws very well.

It's rare to hear of anyone putting in to big a stove. I'd put in a size larger than I did if I was to do it again.

Good Luck!
Mike P

 

[begreen]

Before cutting into anything, read the manuals. Cutting the back out of the stove will remove shielding from combustibles. Using a torch may put sparks in a place that you have no access too. For example if there is sawdust or woodshavings behind the steel stove you may ignite them and have no way of knowing for hours. Last, this is in violation of the PE manual for zero-clearance fireplace installation:

4) The air flow within and around the fireplace must not
be altered by the installation of the Insert (i.e. no blockage
of louvers or cooling air inlet or outlet ports). This
includes the circulating air chambers in a steel fireplace
or metal heat circulator.
5) Alteration of the fireplace in any manner is not permitted
with the following exceptions:
a: external trim pieces which do not affect the operation
of the fireplace may be removed and stored on or within
the fireplace for re-assembly if the Insert is removed.
b: the chimney damper may be removed to install the
liner.

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

BeGreen seems to think this is a Zero Clearance unit. It is possible.

I had a heavy (1/4") thick Heat-a-Lator fireplace in a masonry chimney. Torch is better than a cut-off wheel. Rigid pipe straight up worked fine for me. Easy install. I did review it with local buildin inspector prior to install. He said it was the neatest install he'd seen.

ATB,
Mike P

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the good points Mike. It could be a heatilator in full masonry. Your stove is a freestander, correct? Regardless, reviewing it with the local inspector is a good plan.

Terry, before pulling out the torch, can you describe the house for us? It would be good to see if the Pacific is the right size or not. What is the floorplan like on this floor, open or several rooms with doors? How large is the room the stove is going in? Also, what are the current dimensions of the fireplace firebox?


PS: The rigid pipe recommendation is a good one. That is the way I would go if this is a straight up chimney.