Shape of split wood?

[GeeWizMan]

Well, I am in the process of splitting wood with my hydraulic splitter and as usual, my mind wanders. One thing my mind came up with is, which shape would be the best. Many times I can choose to split a log into specific shapes such as square or rectangular and not just the proverbial triangular splits. Does anyone have any ideas on which shape might be the most efficient? I know I like having some square splits for stacking purposes and they always seem to burn fine but, I still wonder if their is a best shape.


George

 

[Jags]

The best shape is the one that allows you to load your stove up, nice and tight for the night. I find some large square or rectangular pieces are great for this.

 

[Gooserider]

Well, I am in the process of splitting wood with my hydraulic splitter and as usual, my mind wanders. One thing my mind came up with is, which shape would be the best. Many times I can choose to split a log into specific shapes such as square or rectangular and not just the proverbial triangular splits. Does anyone have any ideas on which shape might be the most efficient? I know I like having some square splits for stacking purposes and they always seem to burn fine but, I still wonder if their is a best shape.


George

As mentioned, whatever fits in the stove best. Usually you need to have some gaps between the peices for both drying in the stacks and for good combustion, however the folks that burn pallet wood and other fast burning woods say that stacking really tightly to limit the air flow will slow their burns down to a more acceptable level.

Gets back to the "size" rule in a way - all else being equal, small splits will burn faster and hotter, big splits will burn slower and cooler. Stacking splits tightly will make small splits act more like big ones. Of course the more wood you are able to fit in the firebox, the longer the burn you should get.... My objective is to get down to the point where no dimension is larger than about 6" and most are around 4" - my "test guage" is that I want to be able to grab the split by the end with one hand along any dimension.

I tend to split small (6-10") rounds into 2-4 wedges. Larger rounds I usually split in half, then knock the corners off each half, and then split the remaining squarish block as appropriate to get it down to my size spec. Small rounds (under 6") I don't split. This of course assumes that the round cooperates - since I'm splitting by hand, this makes a big difference

Gooserider

 

[Sandor]

Well this is a new kinda question!

Yes, I think about it while the maul is in the air, behind my back.

The number one consideration for me is, "how is the easiest way to split this thing". So, for someone like me that splits by hand, the answer is "whats easiest and fastest".

I like a variety of sizes and shapes to choose from to meet my needs.

 

[BrotherBart]

When I am splitting large rounds I always do a bunch of big rectangular splits for nicely stacking in the box. A luxury afforded by the power splitter. Like Sandor says, if swinging a maul spilt the least painful way possible.

 

[GeeWizMan]

Thanks - I am glad it was a new question, I would hate to ask an old question for the sake of the old timers.

I am also impressed with the number of people that split their wood with a maul / axe. If I had to split by hand I probably would not heat with wood. I do consider myself a lucky man.

George

 

[BrotherBart]

If I had to split by hand I probably would not heat with wood.

That makes two of us. My John Wayne days are over. Come to think of it, so are John Wayne's.

 

[Gooserider]

Thanks - I am glad it was a new question, I would hate to ask an old question for the sake of the old timers.

I am also impressed with the number of people that split their wood with a maul / axe. If I had to split by hand I probably would not heat with wood. I do consider myself a lucky man.

George

I wouldn't turn down a power splitter for sure, but it is good exercise - I've never understood the logic of spending money to purchase "labor saving" equipment, and then paying more money for the priviledge of going down to the health club to EXERCISE... My splitting technology collection cost me less than $100, and I don't pay for no steenkin' health club :coolgrin:

I should have emphasized that I also look at a log and plan what I think will be the easiest way to split it before I even pickup the maul. The objectives mentioned earlier are what I TRY to do, but that isn't always the way it works. That said, the way I describe does tend to also be the easiest way to get the logs into chunks if they aren't gnarly - if they are, I do whatever it takes to work around the gnarly bits.

Gooserider

 

[BrotherBart]

On the finance side Goose, $799 20 seasons ago has worked out to $39.95 a year for the splitter. That's right, still running the same fluid and filter after all these years and gas burned is squat. I used to go through that much in busted maul handles, lost wedges and extra beer every year when I was whacking on rounds. And thinking that I had inherited my dad's arthritis at 40. Shoulders quit hurting the year after I bought the splitter. For ever action there is an equal and opposite...

As most people say, you don't work any less with a hydraulic splitter you just get more done. And get to cut those cute slabs for packin da stove.

Ya don't pick your car up by hand to change a flat do ya? 'Chinery is a good thing. Lets ya get to be an old fart and still burn wood.

Yes Eric I know. I know. Dave has probably never owned a splitter in his life. My sweaty hat is off to him.

 

[Sandor]

I used a splitter once, and thought it was slower moving the rounds into place then just whacking them in place. I figure I lose about 10-20 percent more wood because I leave behind what I think I can't split. ( Y's)

At 42, I figure I can split by maul for another 25 years, but its getting harder every year! I simply refuse to capitulate to age!

Like Goose says, its a hell of a workout. But then again, I was at the beach last week and readily whipped off my shirt while the other fella's kept theirs on to conceal the obvious.

And BB, why are you cutting wood when its 95F outside?

 

[BrotherBart]

And BB, why are you cutting wood when its 95F outside?

But I got these new chains ya see. Like I can just let'em lay there on the bench and not try one out? Yeah right!

 

[Gooserider]

I used a splitter once, and thought it was slower moving the rounds into place then just whacking them in place. I figure I lose about 10-20 percent more wood because I leave behind what I think I can't split. ( Y's)

At 42, I figure I can split by maul for another 25 years, but its getting harder every year! I simply refuse to capitulate to age!

Like Goose says, its a hell of a workout. But then again, I was at the beach last week and readily whipped off my shirt while the other fella's kept theirs on to conceal the obvious.

And BB, why are you cutting wood when its 95F outside?

Well I split wood when it's 95 or hotter out because I have it and it needs splitting - if I don't split it, it doesn't have time to season and I can't burn it...

I do move almost all my wood about 3 times. I have a stump that I use for splitting on that is just about perfect - I've tried splitting on the ground where the rounds are, and found I get enough "bounce" from the ground that it is worth the extra effort to move the rounds to my splitting stump that gives me a really solid surface. - So:

Move 1 - from where I cut the rounds, to the splitting stump.
Move 2 - from the splitting stump to the wood sheds
Move 3 - from the wood sheds to the stove

Moves 2 and 3 are made with an HF firewood cart that carries about a day and a half's worth of wood at a time (at the smoke dragon's burn rate)
Move 1 is made with the firewood cart if the rounds are small (under 12" or so) or two at a time on a two wheel can dolly - I found the firewood cart was harder to load and tended to bend under the big rounds.

If the round is really enourmous, I'll split it in place, but I don't get many of those.

However I also don't loose much wood because I figure I'm more stubborn than the logs are - I don't care how gnarly it is, if you hit it enough times, from enough different directions, with enough wedges it WILL split down to a size you can get into the stove... >:-(

Since what I get from the wood guy is yard trees, I'd have more that I couldn't split than I could if I gave up easy...

Gooserider

 

[GeeWizMan]

Yes, I too am splitting wood and the temp has been 95°F for the past 3 days. I just make sure that I am well hydrated and that my electrolytes are replaced and everything is fine.

George

 

[velvetfoot]

I've come to the conclusion at the moment that cross section doesn't make much of a difference, as compared to the ease of splitting.

 

[GeeWizMan]

I have come to the same conclusion. For the time being, until someone shows me a different way to think about it. What I like to end up with is an eclectic group of different shapes and sizes. It helps to have a wide variety when filling the firebox. I always look at filling it as if it were a jig-saw puzzle and I was trying to get the most wood in it possible. At least, I think about it that way when I fill it before going to bed.

Thank you for participating in this discussion.

George

 

[Sandor]

And BB, why are you cutting wood when its 95F outside?

But I got these new chains ya see. Like I can just let'em lay there on the bench and not try one out? Yeah right!

Buy more Beer
Drink said Beer
Let'em lay, while looking at new chains, pontificating their cutting performance when its 65 outside.

Done!