Short (in height) wood burner

[archedbrickfireplace]

I have an arched brick fireplace that we'd like to put a wood burning stove in so that it could provide some heat. Currently we don't light the fireplace in the winter and we would like to.

The challenge is, the arch is only 27 inches high in the middle, and 25.5 inches high where a wood burner would need to clear it. Currently, we like the Jøtul F 100 Nordic QT, but I think we would prefer one with an ash pan (though if they're as great as I've read on here I could be swayed). That lead us to the Vermont Castings Intrepid Flexburn, however I haven't heard great things about the company lately and would be hesitant to spend so much on something that wasn't a worry free sure thing.

We're not looking for it to be a primary source of heat, however we'd like it to be efficient (1400 two story house) and provide some heat.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! We're definitely limited in the size burner we can have which makes the search difficult.

Thank you!!

 

[begreen]

Take a look at the Hampton H200 with the short leg kit. If you would like a larger sized stove then there is also the Hampton H300 with the short leg kit.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

Take a look at the Hampton H200 with the short leg kit. If you would like a larger sized stove then there is also the Hampton H300 with the short leg kit.

Thank you begreen! I didn't know that short legs were an option. That opens up a whole new world. The only thing I know about Regency wood burners is they're said to have a great warranty and they're considered really good quality. I'm looking over all of their specs now.

General questions....If I were to go with the H300 could I really expect it to heat my whole house in cooler months (maybe not Dec-Feb, but most other cool months)? Also, is it safe to load a wood burning stove with wood and go to bed for the night? This is something I'd never even consider doing with my fireplace.

 

[begreen]

I've been loading a stove and going to bed at night (and going shopping or out for dinner) for decades. With a properly setup and run stove one can have peace of mind that it will perform predictably.

Is the floor plan open to this room? If so, it should work pretty well. Even if the H300 can't heat the whole house in very cold weather it will make a notable dent in the heating bill.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

I've been loading a stove and going to bed at night (and going shopping or out for dinner) for decades. With a properly setup and run stove one can have peace of mind that it will perform predictably.

Is the floor plan open to this room? If so, it should work pretty well. Even if the H300 can't heat the whole house in very cold weather it will make a notable dent in the heating bill.

Is relatively open.... old house with a 350sqft living room with a large (5 ft)doorway to the dining room and a regular sized doorway to the kitchen......if it heated the kitchen or upstairs I'd be really impressed. A notable dent in heating costs would make it well worth the money. Should I consider to reinforcing the flooring at all for the 400+ pounds on top of the old brick fireplace load is already baring?

 

[albrown60]

Thank you begreen! I didn't know that short legs were an option. That opens up a whole new world. The only thing I know about Regency wood burners is they're said to have a great warranty and they're considered really good quality. I'm looking over all of their specs now.

General questions....If I were to go with the H300 could I really expect it to heat my whole house in cooler months (maybe not Dec-Feb, but most other cool months)? Also, is it safe to load a wood burning stove with wood and go to bed for the night? This is something I'd never even consider doing with my fireplace.

I have a Regency insert I2400 medium since 2013 and very happy with it . Check the specs, this might fit in your space. You are right, the warranty is excellent and the unit quite efficient. I cold weather, I do a last load around 10 pm, close the air and sleep very well, not worrying about the insert. I leave the blower at low and in the morning around 7 am, blower still running and a good bed of coals .

 

[weatherguy]

Is this a basement install? How many square feet? Any stove should make a big dent in the energy bill, also you'll feel much warmer.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

Is this a basement install? How many square feet? Any stove should make a big dent in the energy bill, also you'll feel much warmer.

No, the fireplace is in the living room. It's a 1400 square ft two story house.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

I have a Regency insert I2400 medium since 2013 and very happy with it . Check the specs, this might fit in your space. You are right, the warranty is excellent and the unit quite efficient. I cold weather, I do a last load around 10 pm, close the air and sleep very well, not worrying about the insert. I leave the blower at low and in the morning around 7 am, blower still running and a good bed of coals .

Thank you allbrown60. An inset would hide the arch in my fireplace so i'm really only focusing on freestanding wood burners.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

Take a look at the Hampton H200 with the short leg kit. If you would like a larger sized stove then there is also the Hampton H300 with the short leg kit.

Begreen, with the short legs can toy still use the ash drawer?

 

[begreen]

Is relatively open.... old house with a 350sqft living room with a large (5 ft)doorway to the dining room and a regular sized doorway to the kitchen......if it heated the kitchen or upstairs I'd be really impressed. A notable dent in heating costs would make it well worth the money. Should I consider to reinforcing the flooring at all for the 400+ pounds on top of the old brick fireplace load is already baring?

That sounds good for 100% heating with the stove under most conditions. I think the ashpan is lost with the short legs. If so, it's not a big deal. I haven't used the ashpan on our stoves for years.

The weight will probably be fine on the hearth. Usually there is a solid foundation under the fireplace. Do you know how this fireplace floor is supported?

 

[Woody Stover]

i'm really only focusing on freestanding wood burners.

Pics would help. I assume it's going to sit in front of the fireplace opening and be rear-vented?

Begreen, with the short legs can toy still use the ash drawer?

According to the brochure on the website, no. " Ash drawer (H300 - use with standard legs only)"

Is relatively open.... old house with a 350sqft living room with a large (5 ft)doorway to the dining room and a regular sized doorway to the kitchen......if it heated the kitchen or upstairs I'd be really impressed.

You can experiment with a small 8" desk fan on the floor, moving cool, dense air back toward the stove room, to move heat in the house. Try several locations, and you can tape tissue paper in the tops of doorways etc. to help determine how the warm air is moving.
I'd say that with 1400' you should be able to make a sizable dent in the heat requirements. It doesn't look like a large firebox or high output stove but in normal winter weather, should do pretty well I'd think.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

That sounds good for 100% heating with the stove under most conditions. I think the ashpan is lost with the short legs. If so, it's not a big deal. I haven't used the ashpan on our stoves for years.

The weight will probably be fine on the hearth. Usually there is a solid foundation under the fireplace. Do you know how this fireplace floor is supported?

The previous owner had let one of the old beams near the fireplace be cut into four duct work (don't ask), so now I have the beam clamped with wood on either side and two steel support posts, one on each side of the fireplace.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

Pics would help. I assume it's going to sit in front of the fireplace opening and be rear-vented?
According to the brochure on the website, no. " Ash drawer (H300 - use with standard legs only)"
You can experiment with a small 8" desk fan on the floor, moving cool, dense air back toward the stove room, to move heat in the house. Try several locations, and you can tape tissue paper in the tops of doorways etc. to help determine how the warm air is moving.
I'd say that with 1400' you should be able to make a sizable dent in the heat requirements. It doesn't look like a large firebox or high output stove but in normal winter weather, should do pretty well I'd think.

Thank you Woody Stover! Attaching a pic. Now that I'd be losing the ash drawer would you recommend I widen my search beyond the h300? I like what I read about the jotuls as well.

 

[Woody Stover]

Now that I'd be losing the ash drawer would you recommend I widen my search beyond the h300? I like what I read about the jotuls as well.

I got spoiled on the grated ash systems, which among other things distribute the ash evenly into the pan and don't leave a mound right under the ash dump, which needs to be distributed if you want to fill the ash pan to its full capacity before having to empty it. On the Buck 91 I had to stick a poker down through the ash dump to distribute the ashes around the pan. Some of the Jotuls have ash grates, and offer both cast iron and jacketed steel boxes. That said, if the stove has no grate or ash dump, shoveling out ashes is workable if you develop your technique so that the ash dust is drawn back into the stove, instead of escaping into the room. This involves the use of a shallow pan which you hold right below the door opening so that any dust is pulled into the box by the draft, and shoveling out the ash when it's cool outside and draft is good.
Is there a steel plate under the arched bricks? If not, maybe you could grind the bottom of the bricks to give you a little more clearance for the rear-exit flue height. Of course, it might not look as good. Rear-vent stoves are mostly going to be cast iron construction. If you want to put the stove out on the hearth with a rear-vent, you'll need to research the floor R-value requirements of the selected stove. Hearth modification might be necessary. If you haven't already realized it, researching stoves is a lot of work! And it's tougher if you can't see the stove in person...pretty much a shot in the dark at that point.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

I got spoiled on the grated ash systems, which among other things distribute the ash evenly into the pan and don't leave a mound right under the ash dump, which needs to be distributed if you want to fill the ash pan to its full capacity before having to empty it. On the Buck 91 I had to stick a poker down through the ash dump to distribute the ashes around the pan. Some of the Jotuls have ash grates, and offer both cast iron and jacketed steel boxes. That said, if the stove has no grate or ash dump, shoveling out ashes is workable if you develop your technique so that the ash dust is drawn back into the stove, instead of escaping into the room. This involves the use of a shallow pan which you hold right below the door opening so that any dust is pulled into the box by the draft, and shoveling out the ash when it's cool outside and draft is good.
Is there a steel plate under the arched bricks? If not, maybe you could grind the bottom of the bricks to give you a little more clearance for the rear-exit flue height. Of course, it might not look as good. Rear-vent stoves are mostly going to be cast iron construction. If you want to put the stove out on the hearth with a rear-vent, you'll need to research the floor R-value requirements of the selected stove. Hearth modification might be necessary. If you haven't already realized it, researching stoves is a lot of work! And it's tougher if you can't see the stove in person...pretty much a shot in the dark at that point.

Every time i think I have something figured out i'm wrong....lol. i'm always back to the drawing board. It can't be worse than cleaning out the fireplace ash, right? Id like for only the front legs to be on the hearth tile.... is that possible? No steel plate undervalues the arch. The hearth has tile on top of cement. We're redoing the ceramic tile so is the something we should think of putting down to make sure we're ok with the r-value?

 

[Woody Stover]

We're redoing the ceramic tile so is the something we should think of putting down to make sure we're ok with the r-value?

Yes, you can put various materials below the tile to provide insulation value if needed. I ripped this from the Woodstock site:

 

[Woody Stover]

If you go with a free-standing stove, best to have it completely out of the fireplace, but not necessary with a convective stove design and a blower. Mine is a radiant design, rear-vented into the fireplace with a tee, and the back of the stove is even with the fireplace opening.
I wouldn't rush the decision on what to do. Best to read up here on all aspects of burning wood for heat. Sorry, you will have to quit your day job if you want to be up to speed within the next couple years.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

If you go with a free-standing stove, best to have it completely out of the fireplace, but not necessary with a convective stove design and a blower. Mine is a radiant design, rear-vented into the fireplace with a tee, and the back of the stove is even with the fireplace opening.
I wouldn't rush the decision on what to do. Best to read up here on all aspects of burning wood for heat. Sorry, you will have to quit your day job if you want to be up to speed within the next couple years.

So many words I need to look up the meaning of.....

 

[begreen]

Moving the stove out onto the hearth may require the hearth to be extended. There needs to be 16" of hearth in front of the stove door. Also, what is the chimney height? If this is a 1 story, 15' chimney then it may be best to top vent the stove and not put it out on an extended hearth with a horiz. rear vent connected to a tee. That may reduce draft undesirably for a short chimney liner. If this is a 2 story chimney then that is less likely to be an issue.

If the stove is entirely within the fireplace and the fireplace is properly constructed, then there is going to be plenty of masonry underneath it. Insulation value is not an issue in this case. Can you look underneath the floor to see how the hearth is built?

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

Moving the stove out onto the hearth may require the hearth to be extended. There needs to be 16" of hearth in front of the stove door. Also, what is the chimney height? If this is a 1 story, 15' chimney then it may be best to top vent the stove and not put it out on an extended hearth with a horiz. rear vent connected to a tee. That may reduce draft undesirably for a short chimney liner. If this is a 2 story chimney then that is less likely to be an issue.

If the stove is entirely within the fireplace and the fireplace is properly constructed, then there is going to be plenty of masonry underneath it. Insulation value is not an issue in this case. Can you look underneath the floor to see how the hearth is built?

It's a two story house so that's a saving grace. Under the hearth tile is cement. When I go down to the basement and peak up through the floor joists I see what looks like cement there too. If the stove is entirely within the fireplace, does it heat as well? I don't want to build the hearth out further and I was actually looking forward to being about to put my kettle on top of the stove, ....but as long as it still heats as well I can live without that.

 

[begreen]

It will heat when in the fireplace, but not quite as well if it was out on the hearth. However, there are things that can be done to help balance the equation. First is an insulated block off plate set as low as possible with the front a bit higher than the rear if possible. Installing at the lintel height is good if possible. Second is adding the blower option to the stove. This will make a large difference. And last, if this is an exterior wall fireplace, consider insulating the side and rear walls. This can be done discreetly with insulation board painted black or that has a black metal skin covering it.

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

It will heat when in the fireplace, but not quite as well if it was out on the hearth. However, there are things that can be done to help balance the equation. First is an insulated block off plate set as low as possible with the front a bit higher than the rear if possible. Installing at the lintel height is good if possible. Second is adding the blower option to the stove. This will make a large difference. And last, if this is an exterior wall fireplace, consider insulating the side and rear walls. This can be done discreetly with insulation board painted black or that has a black metal skin covering it.

Called a place that carries Regency stoves and he told me he doesn't think I could push an h300 into the fireplace bc there's a "T" shaped thing in the back that needs to be cleaned out and we wouldn't be able to access it. Is this correct?

I'm starting to wonder how hard is it to reshape a brick fireplace....lol

 

[begreen]

I was thinking of it being top connected, not rear connected to a tee, but this would depend on depth of the fireplace.

Another alternative would be an insert. Have you considered this option?

 

[archedbrickfireplace]

I was thinking of it being top connected, not rear connected to a tee, but this would depend on depth of the fireplace.

Another alternative would be an insert. Have you considered this option?

Yes we've considered it but personal preferences are 1. Wood burning stove 2. Leave it alone