Should the log be on a solid surface when splitting?

[Stelcom66]

I don't know if it really makes a difference after all these years. The big stump I was using deteriorated. Sometimes I'll bring pieces and split them on cement in front of the garage, but of course it's bad when the maul strikes the cement. I thought it was better to have a solid surface rather than the ground, but I wonder if it really makes a difference? Did most of today's splitting on the ground.

 

[begreen]

It definitely helps to have the wood on a chopping block. Otherwise the impact of the maul or ax is partially absorbed by the ground.

 

[Stelcom66]

Then I really should come up with a replacement chopping block. It does seem better on the hard surface, and not a big deal if the axe/maul strikes a chopping block.

 

[begreen]

Yup. I always saved a nice solid big round for this.

 

[Stelcom66]

My son just sent me a photo of what he set up, a pallet... ain't gonna last! Told him when he destroys it use it for firewood. He knows his axes though - bought that high rated Fiskars 6 lb (x25?) - I tried it and ended up getting one. I think it works better than my 8 lb Lowes one.

 

[Simonkenton]

You need a chopping block. I have a big 22 inch diameter locust drum that I have been using for a year it is holding up pretty well as a chopping block.
Concrete driveway, No Bueno.

 

[Stelcom66]

I actually have some Black Locust, but the rounds aren't very big. I think I'll save the biggest I have to become chopping block.

And I hear ya... re: concrete driveway. Don't like seeing sparks!

 

[Highbeam]

I think there’s something to be said for the height of impact too. On a proper block you are hitting about waist height and pretty much vertical. At 16” off the ground the arc is starting to come back at your feet. Farther to hunch.

 

[Stelcom66]

So -

I think there’s something to be said for the height of impact too. On a proper block you are hitting about waist height and pretty much vertical. At 16” off the ground the arc is starting to come back at your feet. Farther to hunch.

The block I had before wasn't at the ideal height, but definitely better than striking a round set directly on the ground. I was thinking of
cutting a piece to use, but it does seems it would be better higher.

 

[hickoryhoarder]

Much better to have a l6" log up about 18" high -- sitting on a big 18" round. Easier to make the impact near your waist level, and go straight through the log. I have a big sycamore round that has held up 4 years now as a chopping block. Normally I seem to destroy chopping blocks in a year.

 

[Simonkenton]

Yes, normally a chopping block lasts me about a year. I am right at a year with the big locust block and it is looking pretty well so far.

Also, I set the chopping block up on some bricks for 6 months during the warm weather so it doesn't start to rot out. Locust doesn't rot very much but I put it on bricks anyway the bottom will get all covered with earthworms and roly-polys.

 

[Stelcom66]

Yea my last chopping block surprisingly lasted a few years. I'll just consider it a disposable (but burnable) item and put a round aside for that purpose.

 

[sen166]

I've never really cared for a chopping block, but to each their own. I typically stand the wood up on the ground and use the flick technique with the axe as it strikes the wood. Helps keep the axe sharp and out of the dirt along with helping the wood split apart.

 

[PaulOinMA]

I used to use a low stump to firewood split with a maul. Saw my tree guy just splitting on the ground, and I do that now. Saved time not using a block. Even better if it's winter, and the ground and wood to split is frozen.

 

[Stelcom66]

I am right at a year with the big locust block and it is looking pretty well so far.

Also, I set the chopping block up on some bricks for 6 months during the warm weather so it doesn't start to rot out.

I have some locust, will see if there's one big enough to use as a chopping block. Good idea re: setting it on bricks - my previous ones
rotted out on the bottom.

 

[Stelcom66]

I used to use a low stump to firewood split with a maul. Saw my tree guy just splitting on the ground, and I do that now. Saved time not using a block. Even better if it's winter, and the ground and wood to split is frozen.

Really big rounds will just stay where they are on the ground. When the ground and wood is nicely frozen it does make it easier without a block.

 

[Grizzerbear]

I live on a red clay rock pile with about 2-3 inches of "dirt" on top....so i find myself rarely needing one. If I am splitting a smaller chunk I have used an about 8 inch tall round of hickory the last few years. Its weighing down some old barn tin on some stacks at the present.

 

[EbS-P]

Personally I think a chopping block is not as efficient. The Time it takes to set each piece up and the energy you loose due to the shorter swing just aren’t worth it. Now if I get a really knotty piece I do have a stump cut at ground height I use or I just toss it into a pile I cut up next time the saw is running. Now if you want to keep your axe really sharp a block is the best way to go. Just my thoughts.

Evan

 

[Simonkenton]

Y'all Yankees have an unfair advantage. Splitting frozen wood, on frozen ground. Firewood hardly ever freezes down here in Dixie.

 

[weatherguy]

Personally I think a chopping block is not as efficient. The Time it takes to set each piece up and the energy you loose due to the shorter swing just aren’t worth it. Now if I get a really knotty piece I do have a stump cut at ground height I use or I just toss it into a pile I cut up next time the saw is running. Now if you want to keep your axe really sharp a block is the best way to go. Just my thoughts.

Evan

Thats if you do one at a time, I use a big round 20 inches high and strap as much wood as I can and go to town.

 

[Corey]

I think with the Fiskars, most guys just hold the axe out so the wood can see it, and the wood splits itself, so no real hard surface needed. If you do need a hard surface, the best I have found is the end plate of my hydraulic splitter.

 

[moresnow]

For me a 24" or large dia round chopping block with a old tire layed on top works best. Put a round/rounds in the tire and start swinging. Work around the tire in a circle making splits quick. No need to bend over and chase splits that have launched off the chopping block. My splits stay right inside the tire. Works really well for me. Actually soooo much quicker than my hydro splitter that I admittedly use the most!
BTW chopping on concrete with a Fiskars would take the very fine edge off in a couple swings. Ouch!

 

[cadyfatcat]

agree with @moresnow on the tire trick, a large spruce round is the best chopping block imo, spruce tends to be very knotty so it wont split itself, and being a softer wood it is easy to just drop the axe head into it and have it rest in place when not in use

 

[Wood1Dennis]

Personally I think a chopping block is not as efficient. The Time it takes to set each piece up and the energy you loose due to the shorter swing just aren’t worth it. ......

Evan

I'm with Evan. When I am hand splitting, It's in the woods as I am sawing. Usually in the winter when the wood is frozen and only on the stuff that spits nicely. I cut the pieces, stand a bunch up and just go right down the line. Taking them to a block, while better for the axe would take too much time. The wood I drag out whole gets cut in spring and then I use the hydraulic splitter.

I also find that a longer swing works better for me. When the wood is sitting up on a block I can't get as much speed / power in my swing. Maybe that is because I'm vertically challenged.....