Smoking Fireplace Insert

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jcherry

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 27, 2009
1
east tx
Suggestions welcome. Problem: I installed a woodburing insert in a fireplace that had metal (heatalator) firebox in it. I had to cut out one of the heat air pipes that guided warm air out through opening in the face of the fireplace. Very unpleasant task! The 6" flue connection hole is in the center of the insert, and just barly allows a connection past the face of the fireplace, at a slight angle, but it makes a sealed connection. The space in the damper opening is so tight on a 6" pipe that it compresses it slightly when it passes through. Starting off with a couple of swivell joints of black pipe,I finally got a 6" straight joint through the damper(which is tied wide open) and sealed the rest of the damper opening with cut to fit sheet metal. My pipe only goes about a foot past the flue. The metal firebox and the chimney make what seems to be an extra turn that makes it extremely difficult to work there. The insert heats great. I keep about 24 hundred sq. ft. very comfortable. The problem is that if I open the door to refuel before the fire dies down to only red coals, it puffs smoke into the room. My home and fireplace are 5 years old and the the flue tiles are 17'X13".

Can I solve my problem with SS Flex Pipe from insert to chimney top? If so where is a cheap place to order, and about how long can I expect it to last?

Is my chimney hole too large?

Would runnig flex pipe about 6' up the chimney work?

Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks! First time on the forum

JC
 
Hey, jcherry

<>Suggestions welcome. Problem: I installed a woodburing insert in a fireplace that had metal (heatalator) firebox in it. I had to cut out one of the heat air pipes that guided warm air out through opening in the face of the fireplace. Very unpleasant task! The 6" flue connection hole is in the center of the insert, and just barly allows a connection past the face of the fireplace, at a slight angle, but it makes a sealed connection. The space in the damper opening is so tight on a 6" pipe that it compresses it slightly when it passes through. Starting off with a couple of swivell joints of black pipe,I finally got a 6" straight joint through the damper(which is tied wide open) and sealed the rest of the damper opening with cut to fit sheet metal. My pipe only goes about a foot past the flue.<>

First of all, if you have single wall connector pipe in the flue, it's DEFINITELY NOT code compliant...

<>The metal firebox and the chimney make what seems to be an extra turn that makes it extremely difficult to work there. The insert heats great. I keep about 24 hundred sq. ft. very comfortable. The problem is that if I open the door to refuel before the fire dies down to only red coals, it puffs smoke into the room. My home and fireplace are 5 years old and the the flue tiles are 17'X13".<>

The problem is the increase in cross-sectional area from the 6" to the 17 x 13 flue tile...
You're lucky it drafts at all...

<>Can I solve my problem with SS Flex Pipe from insert to chimney top?<>

Yep, with a block off plate & insulation, you should eliminate you back-puffing...

<>If so where is a cheap place to order, and about how long can I expect it to last?<>

Don't know of any place CHEAP...Stainless is expensive & you haven't indicated how high the chimney is...
A 25 footer is about $450...
A 35 footer is about $550...

<>Is my chimney hole too large?<>

Yep..gotta decrease it to the size of the flue collar on your insert

<>Would runnig flex pipe about 6' up the chimney work?<>

Probably not...plus it's harder to clean...

Any info would be appreciated!

Thanks! First time on the forum
 
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