Solutions for chimney that was framed over during home addition build.

[Mmorgan4499]

Hello All,

I'm building an addition on my home and I decided to frame before I added to the top of my chimney. Now, I believe it's too late and I need an easier option to work with. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

 

[begreen]

Tell us the end goal. It looks like there are 2 flues, is this correct? Will both be active? If so, for what purpose, open fireplace, wood stove, insert in the fireplace, boiler or furnace? What size are the flues?

Can a roof joist be cut and box framed to clear the masonry chimney?

 

[Mmorgan4499]

End goal (1) is final inspection approval/occupancy. (2) is a solution to keep our wood burning fireplace the same without an insert if that's possible (ex. If I can attach a Class A pipe at the top of the chimney and run it through the roof, the solution would be easy. The problem is, I don't know this trade well enough.

What I'm looking for is helping figuring out what the solutions are to pick from.

One not to add, this will be a fully framed room, framing right up against the brick with insulation. Insulation and lumber will be within 1 foot of the flue however it's built.

A-nswers to your questions:
- There's two flues. Ones active, ones not and is sealed off.
- flue is 8x12
- We currently have an open wood burning fireplace in our family room.
- A few joist could be cut but I've determined that job to be to much labor and very costly.

- Plan A is to keep the fireplace intact and add a pipe of some sort at the top to vent outside in a safe manner.
-Plan B is to add a liner and an insert in the fireplace
Plan C and D are last resort, gas vented or ventless, or electric.

Thank you

 

[begreen]

Going from rect to round for the transition to a round metal chimney is possible. An insert with a liner is the most doable because the liner and metal chimney pipe will be 6". To keep it as a fireplace would require transitioning to a much more expensive 12" round I think, @bholler has more experience with this. Class A chimney pipe requires at least 2" clearance from any combustible. Would an offset be required or does it line up with a current roof rafter bay?

One thing to note, internal masonry chimneys are supposed to have 2" clearance from all framing and combustibles. Is the second flue sealed at the bottom so that it will not be used at some point by a subsequent home owner?

 

[Mmorgan4499]

Im more than likely going to put an insert in but i havent fully eliminated the idea of a larger pipe on top to keep the fireplace.

As for the offset, I would need one a small one, yes.

The second is sealed with concrete.

What's the clearance requirements for the 6" and 12" pipes?