Splits too long

[cbscout]

I recently had 2 face cord of wood delivered (splits), and a lot of it is too long for my insert. I need to cut it down somehow. My insert can take up to 18" max, but really that brings the wood to the glass, and a lot of these are 19 to 20". Recommended length is no longer than 16". What is the quickest way to cut these back to a shorter length? I thought of making a box frame out of 2x4's that you can drop the splits into, with the frame built at the length desired and the longer pieces will stick out to be cut off.

Just want to get a second opinion on this one. Thanks!

 

[thewoodlands]

I recently had 2 face cord of wood delivered (splits), and a lot of it is too long for my insert. I need to cut it down somehow. My insert can take up to 18" max, but really that brings the wood to the glass, and a lot of these are 19 to 20". Recommended length is no longer than 16". What is the quickest way to cut these back to a shorter length? I thought of making a box frame out of 2x4's that you can drop the splits into, with the frame built at the length desired and the longer pieces will stick out to be cut off.

Just want to get a second opinion on this one. Thanks!

I built what I call a jig, it's 15 inches deep and about 18 inches wide, I also have some smaller boards on the sides that I can hook my bungee cords to so it holds down the splits when I'm cutting some wood down.

I used some old 2 x 4's for the corners and whatever else I had on hand, I'll post a picture tomorrow after supper.

I cut it for burning side to side but the wife doesn't like it so it gets cut down to 15 inches or just over.

 

[cbscout]

I built what I call a jig, it's 15 inches deep and about 18 inches wide, I also have some smaller boards on the sides that I can hook my bungee cords to so it holds down the splits when I'm cutting some wood down.

I used some old 2 x 4's for the corners and whatever else I had on hand, I'll post a picture tomorrow after supper.

I cut it for burning side to side but the wife doesn't like it so it gets cut down to 15 inches or just over.

Thanks, I appreciate it. These are smaller splits, but it sounds like I'm going to have to buy a chainsaw. These may be small splits, but in the future I'll probably use it for larger pieces. Any thoughts on what size chainsaw to buy for just occasional use?

 

[thewoodlands]

I recently had 2 face cord of wood delivered (splits), and a lot of it is too long for my insert. I need to cut it down somehow. My insert can take up to 18" max, but really that brings the wood to the glass, and a lot of these are 19 to 20". Recommended length is no longer than 16". What is the quickest way to cut these back to a shorter length? I thought of making a box frame out of 2x4's that you can drop the splits into, with the frame built at the length desired and the longer pieces will stick out to be cut off.

Just want to get a second opinion on this one. Thanks!

Thanks, I appreciate it. These are smaller splits, but it sounds like I'm going to have to buy a chainsaw. These may be small splits, but in the future I'll probably use it for larger pieces. Any thoughts on what size chainsaw to buy for just occasional use?

How wide will you make your box frame? That will make a difference on the length of the bar you'll need (size of chainsaw too) the width of our jig is 18 inches, my 20 inch bar on the 311 is long enough.

 

[stoveliker]

An 18" bar is the minimum, I'd say, for occasional use. Of course if you get 2 ft dia logs delivered, you need more...

For truly occasional use, and at a place ose to your home, I'd even buy an electric one. Plug, run. No noise, no fumes. Slight slower, but then again occasional. And quite a bit cheaper.

 

[cbscout]

How wide will you make your box frame? That will make a difference on the length of the bar you'll need (size of chainsaw too) the width of our jig is 18 inches, my 20 inch bar on the 311 is long enough.

Hadn't gotten that far yet, but I see what you mean. Makes sense.

 

[cbscout]

An 18" bar is the minimum, I'd say, for occasional use. Of course if you get 2 ft dia logs delivered, you need more...

For truly occasional use, and at a place ose to your home, I'd even buy an electric one. Plug, run. No noise, no fumes. Slight slower, but then again occasional. And quite a bit cheaper.

Thanks, Stoveliker. If an electric will cut cherry and maple, maybe I'll go for one of those for now, get a gas one later if I need it. Right now I am not getting logs delivered. I just figured if I was going to have to buy one, then I'd buy one that would would be suited for other things as they come down the pike.

 

[stoveliker]

My electric has cut cherry, maple, oak,.locust, ash, pine. No problem. Keep the chain sharp.

 

[thewoodlands]

Hadn't gotten that far yet, but I see what you mean. Makes sense.

Make sure you bring a pail with you for the cookie cutoffs, they burn nice.

 

[Max W]

What saw would be good depends on quite a few things but if it is for occasional light use in the yard you might look at electric. Any experienced friends neighbors who have a saw and are willing to help trim your split down and help with safety do’s and don’ts if you get a saw?

When bought 2 cord of dry wood from a neighbor that was too long I put this jig together, maybe similar to cbscouts (correction similar to thewoodlands) but the bungee cord on this holds down a pivoting 2x4. Used some light chain in key places to keep wood from spinning when cutting.

I guess I’m a little behind. I see more postings while writing this.

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks, I appreciate it. These are smaller splits, but it sounds like I'm going to have to buy a chainsaw. These may be small splits, but in the future I'll probably use it for larger pieces. Any thoughts on what size chainsaw to buy for just occasional use?

I like my Ryobi 16”. I also just go an ego battery chainsaw. It’s great for little jobs. Refurbished off eBay. It would be fine for cutting splits down in a jig.

Ego Power+ 14In. Cordless Chainsaw Kit, Certified Refurbished | eBay

The 14 in. bar and chain, combined with a high-efficiency brushless motor, provide smooth cuts. Oregon chain and bar are optimized for smooth cuts 1-Year Warranty. Ego Power+ 14In. Cordless Chainsaw Kit, Certified Refurbished.

www.ebay.com

Need to get chainsaw pants. I’ve done this but I think it’s been one of the more dangerous operations because the pieces are small and my setup was not great
.
I might also consider setting up my table saw or chop saw. It’s probably safer than the chainsaw for this job. Probably not faster though.

Edit.. if you get a chainsaw you need to learn to sharpen it.

 

[peakbagger]

If its clean wood, I use a standard carpenters chop saw in my basement as its convenient. Just make sure the wood is sitting flat as thin kerf blades love to bind in cut.

 

[Simonkenton]

I am the King of the 2-Stroke Saw, but you should buy electric. Makita makes a good one.

 

[GrumpyDad]

do you have an electric miter saw? I have a 16" double bevel sliding compound miter saw. Ive used it for tens of thousands of cuts with the same blade. It would rip through firewood in a heartbeat. Just leave enough 'meat' on one side so the fence holds it and the short cut piece doesnt rocket toward the backwall of where you have the saw setup.

If you dont have that, then I would consider piling about 10 pieces of firewood up on their ends in a circle, using a racket strap to bundle them, then flipping it on its side and going to town with a chainsaw (dont hit the ground though, rocks and chains dont mix)

 

[cbscout]

What saw would be good depends on quite a few things but if it is for occasional light use in the yard you might look at electric. Any experienced friends neighbors who have a saw and are willing to help trim your split down and help with safety do’s and don’ts if you get a saw?

When bought 2 cord of dry wood from a neighbor that was too long I put this jig together, maybe similar to cbscouts (correction similar to thewoodlands) but the bungee cord on this holds down a pivoting 2x4. Used some light chain in key places to keep wood from spinning when cutting.

My one neighbor might. It's been a while since I've run a saw. Yes, I think this is pretty much like the design I was talking about with @thewoodlands. I was thinking about the best way to hold down the wood, too. Thanks for the picture.

 

[cbscout]

I like my Ryobi 16”. I also just go an ego battery chainsaw. It’s great for little jobs. Refurbished off eBay. It would be fine for cutting splits down in a jig.

Ego Power+ 14In. Cordless Chainsaw Kit, Certified Refurbished | eBay

The 14 in. bar and chain, combined with a high-efficiency brushless motor, provide smooth cuts. Oregon chain and bar are optimized for smooth cuts 1-Year Warranty. Ego Power+ 14In. Cordless Chainsaw Kit, Certified Refurbished.

www.ebay.com

Need to get chainsaw pants. I’ve done this but I think it’s been one of the more dangerous operations because the pieces are small and my setup was not great
.
I might also consider setting up my table saw or chop saw. It’s probably safer than the chainsaw for this job. Probably not faster though.

Edit.. if you get a chainsaw you need to learn to sharpen it.

I was wondering how Ryobi did with chainsaws, quality-wise. I use Ryobi tools for my occasional diy projects, but that's entirely different from a chainsaw, lawn mower, etc.

 

[stoveliker]

If you're close to a power outlet (as I am) a corded one is cheaper, and how much you cut in a session is not limited by the battery. My saw has now cut 6 cords or so. And cost $100 or so. New.

 

[cbscout]

do you have an electric miter saw? I have a 16" double bevel sliding compound miter saw. Ive used it for tens of thousands of cuts with the same blade. It would rip through firewood in a heartbeat. Just leave enough 'meat' on one side so the fence holds it and the short cut piece doesnt rocket toward the backwall of where you have the saw setup.

If you dont have that, then I would consider piling about 10 pieces of firewood up on their ends in a circle, using a racket strap to bundle them, then flipping it on its side and going to town with a chainsaw (dont hit the ground though, rocks and chains dont mix)

Don't have the miter setup, so looks like I'll have to do something like the other option you've given in order to cut them down. Without hitting rocks - lol.

 

[stoveliker]

do make a proper stand to secure the splits as noted above by others; just circle strapping them and laying that on the side is not a safe way to go imo. Secure the wood so it can't go places.

 

[cbscout]

If you're close to a power outlet (as I am) a corded one is cheaper, and how much you cut in a session is not limited by the battery. My saw has now cut 6 cords or so. And cost $100 or so. New.

I'm close enough for the electric, it'll take a longer cord but I can do that. I saw an Oregon self sharpening 15 amp saw (18") for a little over $100. Seems like a decent saw according to a couple of reviews I was reading. Ever heard of that brand? I don't want to get something that is difficult to fix, or get parts for, etc.

edit: distance from house somewhere between 50-75 feet if that matters.

 

[stoveliker]

I'm close enough for the electric, it'll take a longer cord but I can do that. I saw an Oregon self sharpening 15 amp saw (18") for a little over $100. Seems like a decent saw according to a couple of reviews I was reading. Ever heard of that brand? I don't want to get something that is difficult to fix, or get parts for, etc.

edit: distance from house somewhere between 50-75 feet if that matters.

I have not heard of this brand in electric saws. (I also think self-sharpening is not possible - you gotta learn how to sharpen the chain with a file or a grinder.)

I don't think electric saws are manufactured for part replacement. The bar and chain, possibly the sprocket. But that's where it likely ends. This is an issue in general with electric devices (tools and others) imo.

50-75 ft is fairly significant; your cord needs to be appropriately sized for the amperage the saw needs and (!) distance (needed cord gauges for an amperage vary with distance ).

 

[EbS-P]

I'm close enough for the electric, it'll take a longer cord but I can do that. I saw an Oregon self sharpening 15 amp saw (18") for a little over $100. Seems like a decent saw according to a couple of reviews I was reading. Ever heard of that brand? I don't want to get something that is difficult to fix, or get parts for, etc.

edit: distance from house somewhere between 50-75 feet if that matters.

Amazon reviews seem positive. I’d always have an extra chain on hand. It might not be one you can get locally easily. Chains look to be 35$. That’s more than 2x the cost for a non self sharpening chain. But it may be worth it. I don’t know how long they will last.

 

[cbscout]

I have not heard of this brand in electric saws. (I also think self-sharpening is not possible - you gotta learn how to sharpen the chain with a file or a grinder.)

I don't think electric saws are manufactured for part replacement. The bar and chain, possibly the sprocket. But that's where it likely ends. This is an issue in general with electric devices (tools and others) imo.

50-75 ft is fairly significant; your cord needs to be appropriately sized for the amperage the saw needs and (!) distance (needed cord gauges for an amperage vary with distance ).

Ok, thank you. And it looks like I may be upgrading to a 14 or 12 gauge cord, then.

 

[cbscout]

Amazon reviews seem positive. I’d always have an extra chain on hand. It might not be one you can get locally easily. Chains look to be 35$. That’s more than 2x the cost for a non self sharpening chain. But it may be worth it. I don’t know how long they will last.

Thank you. I looked at Homelite, which is a brand I'm familiar with, but it was more expensive, and it was 16" vs 18", and 12 Amp vs 15 Amp.

 

[EbS-P]

I have not heard of this brand in electric saws. (I also think self-sharpening is not possible - you gotta learn how to sharpen the chain with a file or a grinder.)

I don't think electric saws are manufactured for part replacement. The bar and chain, possibly the sprocket. But that's where it likely ends. This is an issue in general with electric devices (tools and others) imo.

50-75 ft is fairly significant; your cord needs to be appropriately sized for the amperage the saw needs and (!) distance (needed cord gauges for an amperage vary with distance ).

Oregon is a decent brand. The self sharpening saw need special chains. In my big yard id want a cordless saw.

This is the most used project saw I have.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

RYOBI 14 Amp Corded 10 in. Compound Miter Saw with LED Cutline Indicator TS1346 - The Home Depot

RYOBI introduces the 10 in. Compound Miter Saw with LED. The heavy duty 14 Amp motor delivers up to 5,500 RPM for the power to make difficult cuts. It features a 1-1/4 in. dust port to help keep your work area clean. The 24-tooth Carbide-Tipped blade provides improved performance for fast, clean...

www.homedepot.com