Splits too long

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I've been using a DeWalt 20volt saw for the past year or so, purely for light duty around the yard. I chose it because of the positive reviews and the fact that I have multiple other 20volt DeWalt devices in the shop...
 
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If you have a number of Ryobi batteries, consider that brand battery saw. Thoughts...

- Using a chainsaw is dangerous; learn safety and protective gear is a good thing. If you get into using a chainsaw more, learning safety is even more important because dealing with trees is very dangerous. You can even forego ever dealing with a tree due to the danger and only deal with logs on the ground you find.

- A sharp chain is super important. Buy two, even better, three chains and keep them sharp. Learning to file a chain is a challenge for some of us, has been for me and I've tried pretty hard, lol. I think I am now going to try using my Dremel. You can have a hardward store sharpen your chain teeth but they do not file the rakers. Learn about the rakers. There are also chain sharpening services you can mail to but it doesn't dollar up very well unless mailing several, at least, due to shipping costs. Be sure to learn how to keep from dulling your chain, such as hitting dirt. Also be aware that yard trees often have nails and metal surprises in them.
 
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Another current thread, in which a number of users have recently admitted to chainsaw-to-leg contact, makes a warning about electric chain saws seem prudent. Most chaps will not stop most electric chainsaws, or at least that was what older studies of older chaps and saws showed.

Stihl had put out stat's on chainsaw injuries several years ago, and the numbers aren't fresh in my head anymore, but they found that something like 80% of injuries while working with a chainsaw were leg contact injuries. It makes you wonder why every Joe Homeowner with a chainsaw buys a felling helmet (which they will likely never need), but skips the chaps.
 
If you have a number of Ryobi batteries, consider that brand battery saw. Thoughts...

- Using a chainsaw is dangerous; learn safety and protective gear is a good thing. If you get into using a chainsaw more, learning safety is even more important because dealing with trees is very dangerous. You can even forego ever dealing with a tree due to the danger and only deal with logs on the ground you find.

- A sharp chain is super important. Buy two, even better, three chains and keep them sharp. Learning to file a chain is a challenge for some of us, has been for me and I've tried pretty hard, lol. I think I am now going to try using my Dremel. You can have a hardward store sharpen your chain teeth but they do not file the rakers. Learn about the rakers. There are also chain sharpening services you can mail to but it doesn't dollar up very well unless mailing several, at least, due to shipping costs. Be sure to learn how to keep from dulling your chain, such as hitting dirt. Also be aware that yard trees often have nails and metal surprises in them.
Yeah, one of the videos I watched all the way through was learning to sharpen the chain. A dull chain is a dangerous chain...
 
Another current thread, in which a number of users have recently admitted to chainsaw-to-leg contact, makes a warning about electric chain saws seem prudent. Most chaps will not stop most electric chainsaws, or at least that was what older studies of older chaps and saws showed.

Stihl had put out stat's on chainsaw injuries several years ago, and the numbers aren't fresh in my head anymore, but they found that something like 80% of injuries while working with a chainsaw were leg contact injuries. It makes you wonder why every Joe Homeowner with a chainsaw buys a felling helmet (which they will likely never need), but skips the chaps.
I was really wondering about that. I have eyes and ears, but it seemed to me chaps would be more important for that reason.
 
Another current thread, in which a number of users have recently admitted to chainsaw-to-leg contact, makes a warning about electric chain saws seem prudent. Most chaps will not stop most electric chainsaws, or at least that was what older studies of older chaps and saws showed.

Stihl had put out stat's on chainsaw injuries several years ago, and the numbers aren't fresh in my head anymore, but they found that something like 80% of injuries while working with a chainsaw were leg contact injuries. It makes you wonder why every Joe Homeowner with a chainsaw buys a felling helmet (which they will likely never need), but skips the chaps.
Ive used my chainsaw to cut small trees down in the last 3 years about a dozen times. Usually to cut back grown near my lane, or limbs that are over my roof or a dead tree on my property. Im super worried about injuries to be honest, and when I cut I try to do so in a way that keeps my body as far away as possible. However, one time I was on a ladder and cutting down a limb and of course when I went through the limb the saw started to come toward my body but instinct kick in to be smart enough (finally) to just let the saw go. It dropped about 10' to the ground on some vines so of course it had a nice landing pad.

But in all the time I've cut, the only issue I ever had was a dead branch falling on my head. It wasnt big but it hurt and I was dizzy from it for a bit. I really started to look around at all the dead branches that are 2" or larger in my area, and it's quite alarming. I have many way up high that are very large. It would literally cost me 100k to have someone cut those away in areas that we walk etc. It would be cheaper to just cut all the trees down.

That head bop has me aware and a bit paranoid.
 
There are You tube videos that show that chaps can stop some electric chainsaws. No guarantees but if someone has a choice between no chaps or chaps with an electric that chaps make sense.
 
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Another current thread, in which a number of users have recently admitted to chainsaw-to-leg contact, makes a warning about electric chain saws seem prudent. Most chaps will not stop most electric chainsaws, or at least that was what older studies of older chaps and saws showed.

Stihl had put out stat's on chainsaw injuries several years ago, and the numbers aren't fresh in my head anymore, but they found that something like 80% of injuries while working with a chainsaw were leg contact injuries. It makes you wonder why every Joe Homeowner with a chainsaw buys a felling helmet (which they will likely never need), but skips the chaps.
What is the reason for chaps not liking electric chain saws? Is the chain less easy to stop because the inertia of the motor is larger?

I do know my chain brake is *instantaneous* - i.e. the chainsaw stops within 200 ms or so?
 
That head bop has me aware and a bit paranoid.
I guess there's an opportunity to read what I was writing the wrong way. What I meant is that the majority of homeowners buying a saw are likely never, or almost never, dropping trees. They're using it for cutting up fallen branches, cutting firewood, etc. All applications where chaps are more useful than a helmet.

I own both, but I only wear the helmet for the few minutes it takes me to actually put the tree on the ground. Then it's back to baseball cap and sunglasses, with IEM's playing my favorite podcasts.

There are You tube videos that show that chaps can stop some electric chainsaws. No guarantees but if someone has a choice between no chaps or chaps with an electric that chaps make sense.
Of course, didn't mean to imply otherwise. Moreover, I was pointing out that gasoline saws may have a safety advantage over electric, in this one particular regard.

What is the reason for chaps not liking electric chain saws? Is the chain less easy to stop because the inertia of the motor is larger?
Good question. I know the electric saws have enormous stall torque, so had guessed that was it. I grew up running a 110VAC electric saw for cutting firewood in the back yard, and it wasn't fast, but damn... it could pull your arm off if the dogs skipped.
 
I had 13 large oaks and maples dropped when we moved to our new place last winter. Told the logger to cut the rounds to 16" max, and I'll take care of everything else (tops, branches, splitting, etc.). Needless to say, the logger thought 16" and 24" are almost the same length, so most everything I have is too long for my stoves.
I tried the sawzall route...Nope. Too slow.
I tried a circular saw - dumbest thing I ever did...
Ended up with the chop saw - its quick, just need to make sure I've got the wood secured against the fence or it has a tendancy to catch and jump.
The little end cuts work great in our second stove in the basement, which has a very shallow fire box.
 
When local tree companies call, asking if I'd like them to dump a free load, my first question is whether it's already bucked to lengths. I will let them dump logs, but for the reason you just observed, I will never let them dump bucked rounds.
 
**side question: can anyone recommend a good brand of chaps?
 
Labonville is the inventor of kevlar chainsaw chaps. Made in US (actually in my town). They supply the National Park Service and US Forest Service.

https://www.labonville.com/shop/lab...lyester-cordura-w850kp-49919#attr=13128,12690 Be careful to read the "how to measure section" as they tend to be shorter than people expect. Most folks take a tall. The extra wrap around the lower leg makes a big difference. They usually have a 10 to 20% off sale on Black Friday and in the past they would give that price for phone orders. Us locals can usually clips a coupon from the local paper and get an extra 10% off.

One thing to be aware of is they are extra thick to handle higher power saws and tend to slide down. I use suspenders with them.
 
Haven't read all replies yet stl in process. But if there already split a chop saw would make short work of it. That's what I use. I'm in the trade though so have it handy. If ya had one though it'll work.
 
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All applications where chaps are more useful than a helmet.

I own both, but I only wear the helmet for the few minutes it takes me to actually put the tree on the ground. Then it's back to baseball cap and sunglasses, with IEM's playing my favorite podcasts.
As much as I like my legs, I like my face more. Kickback to your head and face is not pretty. Helmet with face shield is mandatory imo
 
As much as I like my legs, I like my face more. Kickback to your head and face is not pretty. Helmet with face shield is mandatory imo
I'm not going to argue against wearing PPE, more is usually better than less. But I will point out that chainsaw-leg injuries happen something like 8x - 10x more frequently than any head/face injury, according to the stat's I've seen published in the past by Stihl. That was the reasoning behind my statement.

... and did you consult your wife on the face/leg thing? ;lol
 
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I'm not going to argue against wearing PPE, more is usually better than less. But I will point out that chainsaw-leg injuries happen something like 8x - 10x more frequently than any head/face injury, according to the stat's I've seen published in the past by Stihl. That was the reasoning behind my statement.

... and did you consult your wife on the face/leg thing? ;lol
This is true. But I've seen multiple of both types, and let me tell you, as much damage as a chainsaw to the leg can do, you *really* don't want a chain to the face/head. My wife's response when I tell her I'm about to do something stupid: "is your life insurance up to date?". And after the cursing starts: "I hope you're ok".
 
I just purchased a pair of Husqvarna Functional Apron Chainsaw Chaps. I finally picked them after doing too much reading about chaps and getting overwhelmed. I ordered these because they seemed like a good "middle of the road" chaps. I can always upgrade later if I think I need to. I never really thought too much about chaps. I don't use my chainsaw that often, certainly not as much as most of you here, but I guess it only takes one time. I also am really thinking a lot about safety lately since I broke 3 ribs in October when I fell off a 2-step ladder! Now, I don't climb ladders that much either, but it only took that one time! Got me to thinking about other safety precautions. At my age, you don't heal that fast, and I don't want to waste time recuperating from something that is avoidable.
 
I’ve got some to do too. I’m planning on going tall and narrow jig. Single stack or staggered to reduce binding of shifting wood. Maybe 5’ total with a bottom shelf a foot off the ground. 8-10” wide. My splits are 5-8”. This should mostly make a single column with a few staggered offset smaller splits. I’ve got some old 5/16” plywood I could line the interior walls with to keep anything from kicking out the sides. image.jpg