Flatbedford said:
We have had only ethanol gas here in NY for several years now. I have personally seen no difference on any of the gasoline powered machines and vehicles that I own. This includes cars and trucks from '70 - '06 model years, an inboard boat, '68 garden tractor, chainsaws, leaf blower and lawn mower. I don't drain fuel from any of them and only use StaBil in the boat fuel.
Same here FBF. I have seen the storage issues but 10% ethanol does not create any running issues that weren't there before or introduced some other way. Spiders and mice do a lot more mischief than ethanol.
As far as storing ethanol containing fuel? You can leave fuel in the tanks (and I recommend leaving the tank full and adding your favorite stabilizer) but I'd put a shut-off in the line if it's not there already and use it if you'll be storing the unit for more than 30 days. Close the valve and once the engine starts to die, close the choke until it stalls completely. You can drain the carb too if it has a drain on the bowl or pull the bowl and toss the tiny amount of fuel that remains but that's usually unnecessary.
Ethanol
can deteriorate rubber parts in older fuel systems, usually on less expensive equipment like trimmers/blowers/saws, etc. My advice on ALL handheld equipment is to dump the tanks and run 'em dry when storing them for the off season, regardless of the fuel you're using. This task isn't so cumbersome since it's usually a very small quantity of fuel to handle. I dump unused mix back into my cans to re-use down the line.
Kohler's EFI and all fuel injection systems may seem immune to the fuel degradation issues since they do not leave fuel exposed to the open air as carburetors do. It is true that they very seldom gum up in the same manner but they are not immune. Consider yourselves warned.
AvGas, ok it's designed to sit in planes for months without creating an issue and many folks like that it's a higher octane (100 vs 87) number than automotive fuel. If you don't mind the additional expense and understand that in unmodified small engines, the higher octane does nothing for you (over auto fuel), then go for it. I only have one warning for anyone considering it. 100LL (the most common blend) AvGas is not unleaded, LL stands for low lead (and that is a relative term) so consider that your lawn tractor exhausts in front of you, your trimmer directly behind you (better I guess), and your saw about 3-4 ft in front of your nose. Also keep it out of anything with fuel injection or catalytic converters. I know it stores better, it was designed that way, and fresh fuel always runs better. That doesn't mean regular, mid, or premium auto fuel is unworkable in OPE.
Where you store your fuel has the biggest effect on how long it stays good. Fuel likes to be kept cool, dry, and in the dark.
DanCorcoran's post: "I just fill the gas tank with water in the fall, so I don’t have to wonder why it won’t start in the spring." - I nominate this for the "Best Post in The Gear 2011". I think it belongs on every one of my invoices for fuel system work! :gulp: :lol: :snake:
