Splitter Rust & Cylinder Position

[fhon]

Hello Everyone,

I've been collecting parts and am about ready to start piecing together my log splitter. However I noticed a few things looking at other peoples designs that I was hoping someone would be able to provide some clarification on.

First I don't commonly see the cylinder lying directly on the I-beam. Is there a reason for this that I'm missing?

Secondly I was going to weld up a reservoir for the hydraulic fluid from some sheet metal but realized, while I could paint the outside I wouldn't really be able to prevent rust on the inside of the tank. Has anyone else here dealt with this?

 

[Jags]

It won’t take long for the inside of the tank to be coated in oil. Rust shouldn’t be an issue unless it was rusty metal to start with. Second, rethink the sheet metal tank. Remember - you have to weld bungs (incoming, outgoing) and a fill neck. Heavier gauge stuff is easier to work with for this. And you probably want something thick enough to ward off an errant round (slip, trip, fall, throw, it WILL happen at some point).

Cylinder directly on the beam - not the best for a few reasons. Cylinders move around a little. No reason to have more contact (read: wear) points than needed. Also, you typically want to split the difference on the push plate. The lower you go (same can be said for too high), the more you take a chance of really binding the shuttle. A good mid position mount gives you the best all around “equalization” of the push pressure. That said - you will also want to make sure your cylinder is very level to the beam (for the same mechanical reasons).

(Gonna move this over to the gear forum as it is a more fitting place)

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Also if you have to replace the cylinder it's easer..

 

[salecker]

Old propane tanks make great oil reservoirs.Tough enough to weld easy and will take a hit from a round.Lots of different sizes to chose from.
Find a place that re-valves them and I'll bet they have a bunch.Remove the valve,place the hole in the lowest position leave it over night and you will be good to go.You can buy weld in bungs at a plumbing warehouse.I would add a bung to drain it when you have the final position figured.

 

[VirginiaIron]

It would be nice, but not necessary, to incorporate a sight glass and temperature gage. I like the idea of a drain port. Also make sure your piston is straight to the beam with the wedge or sled, especially if the rod is threaded or pinned to the wedge or sled. The elevated cyl is typically necessary due to the bearing/pin mounts. If the body of the cylinder is binding against the beam it will add additional stresses.

 

[fhon]

Thank you all for the responses. This really helped

 

[fhon]

One last question. I swear
I've got the rear of the cylinder mounted and now I need to level the cylinder before welding the push plate connector. I leveled the I-beam and then the cylinder with an actual level. I figure this gets me close. Should I measure the height from the I-beam to the center each pin to get it spot on? It's that the proper way?

 

[VirginiaIron]

One last question. I swear
I've got the rear of the cylinder mounted and now I need to level the cylinder before welding the push plate connector. I leveled the I-beam and then the cylinder with an actual level. I figure this gets me close. Should I measure the height from the I-beam to the center each pin to get it spot on? It's that the proper way?

I would and get at as close as possible. I didn't Mic mine but I used a gage with flat stock to got it very close. I think the important thing is to get it parallel to the beam, any mismeasurement at the pins, within reason, should be ok since the pins will allow that movement.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Any pictures?

 

[fhon]

Ok so it doesn't sound like there's a special trick to it. Thank you. That makes sense. I think I'll do all the measurements under the main wide part of the cylinder if possible.

I'm not sure how helpful these pictures are... Or who's dirty garage that is :/

 

[kevin j]

Visually close is good enough. Mobile equipment is moving all over the place and the pins take misalignment, even without spherical bearinghs. Have the pins bearing in each ear evenly before you weld, but it is not precision equipment.

 

[Jags]

Yeah - good and close is good enough.