Stacking 6 cord in a space 35' x 5' - opinions/advice wanted

[MissMac]

Hello everyone,

I'm looking for advice, tips, tricks about the best way to go about stacking 6 cords of firewood in a space that is 35 feet by 5 feet. I'm going to be unable to do any firewood for 2 years due to needing surgery on both shoulders, and therefore am going to get an extra 2 years ahead on my wood (in addition to the 3 years that i already keep on site). I have limited space to store wood, but have an area along the edge of my driveway that is 35' x 5' that i can use for this extra wood. I've dabbled in the cord calculator, and if I make 3 rows that are 35' long, 5.5' high, and 16" wide each, that is 6 cords (each row is 2 cord). So that would allow me to put half a foot in between each row.

My initial thoughts/concerns are:

1. how do i keep such a long/skinny/tall wood row from falling over, especially knowing that my cats will be jumping all over it?
2. how do i shore these rows up without impeding airflow through the wood (this is a shady spot, so keeping good airflow is key
3. what is the best way to build ground support for such a long, narrow stack (i have lots of old cinder blocks, and plan on getting the stacks up off the ground)?


I would love to hear how you keep your stacks from falling, and any other advice or tips you could suggest. I really want to get the kinks ironed out, as I plan on starting to stack as soon as the snow flies. Getting into the processing now. Thanks in advance!

M.

 

[Grizzerbear]

I would stand pallets up to back your stacks up. Drive 2 t post per pallet and slide the pallet over the t post. That would allow some air flow. For getting it off the ground i would get 4x4s.....treated preferrably.....and lay them on your cinder blocks. I would use 3 blocks to support every 8 foot tho. I tried to skimp on that and paid for it.

 

[Sawset]

I would love to hear how you keep your stacks from falling,

Wood shrinks as it dries, but it's never even (radial shrinkage is about half that of tangential). The first year, as moisture content is rapidly dropping, I'm out every so often grabbing a split and using it to bang the rest back to center. Stacks tilt, slide the pcs back to center. After the first year, the shrink subsides, and things become stable again. In a couple years, that 5-1/2 ft stack becomes under 5ft, and I end up adding some to replace it.

 

[Woodspliter]

I do 16' foot long rows and once and a while the cribbing will let got or they lean. I always wanted to try using a banding machine to try to keep the piles nice and tight

 

[weatherguy]

I have a 40 foot run and 22 foot run, I stand pallets up on end and stack in between, I did have a section fall forward one year but that was my fault for not keeping things in line as the wood was shrinking.

 

[MissMac]

I would stand pallets up to back your stacks up. Drive 2 t post per pallet and slide the pallet over the t post. That would allow some air flow. For getting it off the ground i would get 4x4s.....treated preferrably.....and lay them on your cinder blocks. I would use 3 blocks to support every 8 foot tho. I tried to skimp on that and paid for it.

i like this idea because i know it would make the long skinny stacks more sturdy, however i'm concerned that the pallets will restrict airflow and promote mold growth. I've stacked wood in this spot before on pallets, and it didn't do very well. I was also considering stringing up some chicken wire fencing along the back, to try and achieve some support but with more airflow.

 

[MissMac]

Wood shrinks as it dries, but it's never even (radial shrinkage is about half that of tangential). The first year, as moisture content is rapidly dropping, I'm out every so often grabbing a split and using it to bang the rest back to center. Stacks tilt, slide the pcs back to center. After the first year, the shrink subsides, and things become stable again. In a couple years, that 5-1/2 ft stack becomes under 5ft, and I end up adding some to replace it.

ya for sure this is an issue that will likely cause my stacks to fall over. Half of the wood will go into my shed after 1 year, the rest after 2 years. just have to keep it standing for that long

 

[maple1]

i like this idea because i know it would make the long skinny stacks more sturdy, however i'm concerned that the pallets will restrict airflow and promote mold growth. I've stacked wood in this spot before on pallets, and it didn't do very well. I was also considering stringing up some chicken wire fencing along the back, to try and achieve some support but with more airflow.

In what way did it not do well?

I stack on pallets with no airflow or mold issues, at all. Pallets on the bottom, and pallets standing up at the ends. You would need to get them up off the ground. Mine are sitting on concrete blocks. Pallets sitting directly on the ground can go bad in a hurry.

I stack mine double stacked.

 

[Grizzerbear]

Cattle panels maybe? They are sturdier than chicken wire and cost about 20 bucks for a 16 footer. They would last forever. They would allow the wood to breathe very well too.

 

[Grizzerbear]

In what way did it not do well?

I stack on pallets with no airflow or mold issues, at all. Pallets on the bottom, and pallets standing up at the ends. You would need to get them up off the ground. Mine are sitting on concrete blocks. Pallets sitting directly on the ground can go bad in a hurry.

I stack mine double stacked.

Thats how i stack mine as well and never have a problem. I use plastic pallets on the ground. I know some folks dont like the thought of plastic and its effects on pollution but if they are already made they might as well be used instead of ending up in a landfill. They are hard to find free though.

 

[Gearhead660]

i like this idea because i know it would make the long skinny stacks more sturdy, however i'm concerned that the pallets will restrict airflow and promote mold growth. I've stacked wood in this spot before on pallets, and it didn't do very well. I was also considering stringing up some chicken wire fencing along the back, to try and achieve some support but with more airflow.

Speaking of chicken wire, thoughts on laying some across all 3 rows about half way up to tie the rows together? You would have to build all 3 rows at the same time.

 

[shortys7777]

Speaking of chicken wire, thoughts on laying some across all 3 rows about half way up to tie the rows together? You would have to build all 3 rows at the same time.

I do this all the time building landscape walls and stairs. It's needed to prevent blow outs and the ground freezing in the winter. I'm guessing it will make the stacks sturdier.

 

[MissMac]

In what way did it not do well?

I stack on pallets with no airflow or mold issues, at all. Pallets on the bottom, and pallets standing up at the ends. You would need to get them up off the ground. Mine are sitting on concrete blocks. Pallets sitting directly on the ground can go bad in a hurry.

I stack mine double stacked.

This area that i'm talking about is pretty much like stacking in a fully shaded forested area. I had little wedges of 2x8 ends under the wood pallets, and then had rows of split wood stacked on the pallets. The pallets were growing mould and fungi, as was a lot of the wood (after 2 years, no cover). So this time, i'm definitely going to elevate everything up off the ground better, including the underlaying support structure, but i'm just concerned that i could get into fungi problems again, given the shadiness of the spot.

 

[MissMac]

Speaking of chicken wire, thoughts on laying some across all 3 rows about half way up to tie the rows together? You would have to build all 3 rows at the same time.

i'm not sure if i could pull that off without making all 3 rows falling! and then not sure how i'd get more wood onto the middle row, i'f i'm visualizing what you're saying correctly.

 

[MissMac]

I do this all the time building landscape walls and stairs. It's needed to prevent blow outs and the ground freezing in the winter. I'm guessing it will make the stacks sturdier.

so, i'm having a tough time visualizing what this would look like - are we talking about basically putting a chicken wire roof over all 3 stacks half way up, and then continuing with the stacks overtop? i cant see how that would make it sturdier, but i'm interested to hear why it does.

 

[maple1]

The layer of wire ends up being a sandwiched blanket. That can't come apart. So it should hold 3 stacks together.

 

[maple1]

This area that i'm talking about is pretty much like stacking in a fully shaded forested area. I had little wedges of 2x8 ends under the wood pallets, and then had rows of split wood stacked on the pallets. The pallets were growing mould and fungi, as was a lot of the wood (after 2 years, no cover). So this time, i'm definitely going to elevate everything up off the ground better, including the underlaying support structure, but i'm just concerned that i could get into fungi problems again, given the shadiness of the spot.

Yes, getting more airspace underneath should avoid fungi problems. I think I would advise at least 6". I suspect there wasn't much space under yours, by the time those wedges sunk into the ground a little bit under all the weight. Even better would be, as mentioned above, plastic pallets for the bottom, if you can find some. I have some of those too - but still put them up on blocks. Dealing with rotting wood pallets is no fun either (they can make for a mess of nails) - getting them way up will help that not happen also. A layer of heavy plastic on the ground first underneath may also be a consideration.

 

[peakbagger]

The stacks are only as good as the foundation. Ideally you want the wood to be stored on well drained soil. With a 16 foot deep stack the wood is not going to dry much in the center of the stack and could start rotting due to poor air flow so you need to make a trade off. The goal is to store BTUS not wood so you need to get the wood as dry as possible and keep it that way even if it drops the total volume of wood you store. First make sure you get it up off the ground on new pallets. I expect two layers of pallets would work better than one. Prior to processing the wood, keep some 16 foot pole stock (2 to 4" in diameter and straight). You need to come up with end supports. Heavy duty pound in fence posts work as long as they are supplemented by running ropes through the stacks from the pole on one end to the pole on the other end of each row about every 2' feet including the top of the stack .

Now start the stack at one end and make multiple rows of wood with a 4 to 6" gap between the splits to make up the 16' width. Once the stacks get about 2' high lay in a 16 foot pole and and continue stacking putting a pole in about every 2' of height and about every 4 feet of running length. This technique acts like rebar in concrete, as the stacks settle the poles keep the stacks separated for air flow and as long as the soil underneath does not heave the ground underneath and keep the stacks from falling over forwards.

The final trick is you need to top cover with an air gap over the top. Ideally you have some rigid metal roofing which you install with a slight tilt so water doesn't pond on on it. Ideally the metal overhangs the edges of the stack and definitely you want and air gap between the roofing and the top of the stacks. I usually just screw 2 by 3's to the face of the stack with long deck screws vertically on the front and the back of the stack that stick up above the stack. I then screw a cross piece front to pack with the back slightly lower than the front. If you get significant snow the cross pieces need to be beefy due to long span on you will need to stack some wood up to the cross piece at a couple fo points to give it support . I have long sheets of various metal roofing in stock and normally lay the panels side to side on my 4' deep stacks but in your case with 16' span you will probably be better running the metal front to back which means you will need to put some boards on top of the cross pieces. With the poles weaved into the stacks and the verticals screwed into the front and rear face, that sacks are going to stay pretty solid even as the wood dries and settles. I try to season my stacks this way for two years but of late they normally end up going through two winters with no major issues.

When I run out of metal I just use some scrap plywood for the stack covers. If its exterior grade no need to do much, if its interior grade its great place to use up orphan cans of house paint. Just coat the side exposed to weather and its good for a long time. I still have some sheets of interior plywood that came with my house 30 years ago and as long as I kept it tilted and with an air gap underneath its held up. Not so sure if chipboard would last as long.

 

[weatherguy]

I buy those concrete patio looking blocks at HD for a buck and put them under my pallets, that way my pallets dont touch the ground and rot, plus better air flow underneath.

 

[Woodspliter]

I know it's not ideal but I stack on 2 by 4's on top of 2 to 3 inches of wood chips. I have a corner of the yard where I process and stack wood. I replenish the chips every year it keeps the saws sharp and the some of the ground moisture out of the first couple layers.

 

[MissMac]

The stacks are only as good as the foundation. Ideally you want the wood to be stored on well drained soil. With a 16 foot deep stack the wood is not going to dry much in the center of the stack and could start rotting due to poor air flow so you need to make a trade off. The goal is to store BTUS not wood so you need to get the wood as dry as possible and keep it that way even if it drops the total volume of wood you store. First make sure you get it up off the ground on new pallets. I expect two layers of pallets would work better than one. Prior to processing the wood, keep some 16 foot pole stock (2 to 4" in diameter and straight). You need to come up with end supports. Heavy duty pound in fence posts work as long as they are supplemented by running ropes through the stacks from the pole on one end to the pole on the other end of each row about every 2' feet including the top of the stack .

Now start the stack at one end and make multiple rows of wood with a 4 to 6" gap between the splits to make up the 16' width. Once the stacks get about 2' high lay in a 16 foot pole and and continue stacking putting a pole in about every 2' of height and about every 4 feet of running length. This technique acts like rebar in concrete, as the stacks settle the poles keep the stacks separated for air flow and as long as the soil underneath does not heave the ground underneath and keep the stacks from falling over forwards.

The final trick is you need to top cover with an air gap over the top. Ideally you have some rigid metal roofing which you install with a slight tilt so water doesn't pond on on it. Ideally the metal overhangs the edges of the stack and definitely you want and air gap between the roofing and the top of the stacks. I usually just screw 2 by 3's to the face of the stack with long deck screws vertically on the front and the back of the stack that stick up above the stack. I then screw a cross piece front to pack with the back slightly lower than the front. If you get significant snow the cross pieces need to be beefy due to long span on you will need to stack some wood up to the cross piece at a couple fo points to give it support . I have long sheets of various metal roofing in stock and normally lay the panels side to side on my 4' deep stacks but in your case with 16' span you will probably be better running the metal front to back which means you will need to put some boards on top of the cross pieces. With the poles weaved into the stacks and the verticals screwed into the front and rear face, that sacks are going to stay pretty solid even as the wood dries and settles. I try to season my stacks this way for two years but of late they normally end up going through two winters with no major issues.

When I run out of metal I just use some scrap plywood for the stack covers. If its exterior grade no need to do much, if its interior grade its great place to use up orphan cans of house paint. Just coat the side exposed to weather and its good for a long time. I still have some sheets of interior plywood that came with my house 30 years ago and as long as I kept it tilted and with an air gap underneath its held up. Not so sure if chipboard would last as long.

some great ideas in here. i should clarify however - i'm only doing 3 rows that are 35 ft long each - each row is 16 inches (i.e. one split wide). but there are some great tips in here that i'm going to use for sure. thank you!

 

[MissMac]

Yes, getting more airspace underneath should avoid fungi problems. I think I would advise at least 6". I suspect there wasn't much space under yours, by the time those wedges sunk into the ground a little bit under all the weight. Even better would be, as mentioned above, plastic pallets for the bottom, if you can find some. I have some of those too - but still put them up on blocks. Dealing with rotting wood pallets is no fun either (they can make for a mess of nails) - getting them way up will help that not happen also. A layer of heavy plastic on the ground first underneath may also be a consideration.

yes for sure, the weight of the wood i had on those pallets caused them to push the wedges down, and they were too close to the ground. lesson learned for this time. i think this time i'm going to use old cement blocks that i dug out of the ground.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Span the 5' with long pieces of straight logs or boards at intervals to tie it all together. Same idea as the chicken wire, but perhaps free if you just leave some of the logs long, or have some some boards laying around. Cover the whole thing, with the air gap at the top, as Peakbagger recommends. I stack my pallets on bricks or cinder blocks, and there is plenty of airflow.

 

[trail guy Mike]

Span the 5' with long pieces of straight logs or boards at intervals to tie it all together. Same idea as the chicken wire, but perhaps free if you just leave some of the logs long, or have some some boards laying around. Cover the whole thing, with the air gap at the top, as Peakbagger recommends. I stack my pallets on bricks or cinder blocks, and there is plenty of airflow.

I start with very level pallets, essential where I live with no flat ground. This also makes for better air circulation.
Always save your straight-ish tree branches and pruned shoots from shrubberies, anything over 40" (1 m) or so. Lay these in as you build your stacks. Whether they span 2 stacks or all 3, you've got unifying structure through the whole pile.

My stacks are almost 8 ft tall and solid as a rock. As they dry and shrink differentially, I may need to tap them back into shape, with an axe or any piece of firewood.
Chicken wire could work to keep the stack from falling apart; but it lacks compressive strength, so stacks could collapse inward. Also it's nasty stuff to run your hand into.

 

[MissMac]

it sounds like a lot of you fellas have had success stabilizing stacks by tying them together with longer splits. I've got a bunch of old off-cuts from a deck project still laying around, so i think i will weave some of these into the stacks as suggested. The area where i'm going to stack is also pretty sloped, so it will likely take 3 cinder blocks stacked underneath the pallets on the one side to level out flush with the pallet sitting right on the ground on the other side. I would like to come up with an alternative to stacking on pallets, because i don't have nearly enough to support the size of this stack. maybe just use some more of the offcuts underneath, with supporting blocks every 8 ft?